Jump to content

billcoe

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    11895

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by billcoe

    Mazama slideshow - John Frieh Burkett Needle

    in Events Forum

    Posted

    Wednesday March 7 2012 at the Mazamas (527 Southeast 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215). FREE!

     

    John Frieh will be narrating the climb that he, Zac West and Dave Burdick did of the first ascent of the Burkett Needle's east arete. Maybe John can show up with some pictures here later at some point to amp the pre-show stokage...... :lmao:

     

    http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web11f/newswire-needle-in-a-storm

     

    BTW, I wandered into that Mazamas auditorium and they have a small but kick assed climbing wall with cracks and everything. :tup:

    Forget that bulk webbing... by Blake Herrington

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Billcoe,

     

    Are you saying there are stats or records of folks cutting through webbing with their rappel ropes because the ropes were from different brands or thicknesses? That's a frightening prospect, do you recall any of those instances?

     

    I wouldn't suggest cutting away ALL the existing webbing, but would propose leaving the best existing sling then adding one new one as a back-up.

     

    I can't say about stats or records Blake. It's more like the conventional wisdom. I might have only heard of one personal experience of a failure, and that's been so many years (maybe over 20) I'd want to ask the guy to confirm it: old Oregon climber named Steve Strauch I think told me he cut through the webbing with the rap rope and got lucky.

     

    Conventional wisdom like not using a Bowline to tie in with. Maybe the reasons just gets lost. Tieing in with a bowline use to be much more common than using a using a figure 8 to tie in. I can't point you to stats or records of deaths, but I know that has happened for both bowline tie ins and rapping off webbing. That's why those few who do still tie in with a bowline these days use the Yosemite finish or a double bowline that's usually well dressed and invariably seems to have a backup stopper type of knot. Deaths from either of these occurrences seem to be close to non-existent these days as both bowlines and rapping directly off of a single webbing strand are not common. But both are still serious juju.

     

    Vid below not totally representative, but back in the day people set this up simulated rapping and the pressure (weight) is much more, so requires less strokes to break the webbing. Naturally, overhangs are worse than lower angle raps, the more weight you put on a rope, the easier it is to melt the webbing. The webbing melts it doesn't cut. I've never heard if doing it in the cold reduces the effect but I imagine it would make a difference. Leaving all that tat and just adding your new piece isn't often a bad idea to increase your safety margin if you don't want to leave a biner.

    [video:youtube]

     

    regards

    Forget that bulk webbing... by Blake Herrington

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Good stuff. I think that the major issue I'd have is what Gene brings up. You are potentially looking at being a stupid statistic if you cut away all the old webbing, leave your new one and do a double rope rap right on webbing with differing stretch characteristics in your ropes. People have died doing that before, and undoubtedly will again.

     

    Not just a 10mm and a 6mm tied together, but potentially 2 same sized ropes of differing brands. Very very Bad Bad idea. Burn a biner.

    Reslinging cams - In the US

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Gene gives great advice. Add Fish Products to the list as well, but don't be in a hurry. If it's a Metolius cam Pat, go to Metolius, they will fix that (those?) thing(?) up so it looks new. Great work, dirt cheap.

     

    http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/productlinefs.html

     

    Repairs & so forth section...

     

     

    FRIEND/SLCD SLINGS:

    Here's how to do it: Send us your webbing choice, 11" long and prethreaded into your Friends, and we'll lay nine bartacks into it. 1", 11/16" or 5/8" nylon webbing only. $2.50 ea. If you want us to supply the webbing, we can do that in usually some random colors. If we supply the webbing the cost is $3.50 ea.

    FLAT RATE UNINSURED SHIPPING ON CAMS IS $10.00 PER SHIPMENT.

     

    Gay Marriage (Spray Version)

    in Spray

    Posted

    You will have a choice between a tax and spend democrat or a borrow and spend republican. Paul won't be in it. Let's hope for vote and change as the way things are heading, the next election will be Pee Wee Herman vs Madonna.

    BORING

    in Spray

    Posted

    yep....sorry, spray is boring. (yeah so am I today) there's a lot of bickering going on but I really don't see anyone influencing anyone else's thoughts on the same subject different day that's posted everyday.

     

    i challenge each of you to reconsider one of your firmly held beliefs and post about it.

     

    OK, but you first....

    What would you like to see most in a climbing gym?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Good crack climbs. Not the typical nasty ones you find at a gym.

    No need to go any further than Crillz post. I 100% agree.

     

     

    This stuff below (except for the kids play area) is all bullshit and unneeded.

    * A kids' play area (not a bad idea actually)

    A juice bar

    Beer

    A sauna

    Indoor deep water soloing

     

    I can get beer at home, DWS is overrated and all those people lining up for those routes will be getting the rocks super wet.

     

    All that is needed is cracks, real ones, varied and long....not the kind Dave alludes too:-) LONG!!!!! So you can get some cardio going. This area is supersaturated with gyms, and all of them are damned good. PRG, Stoneworks and Circuit all great. BUT, none have the crack thing going on. Club Sport has 3 cracks but they are strange and few people seem to get on them. I think PRG might have put some in I haven't been there for a long time.

     

    Make the F**King things adjustable in steepness so that when some 10 year old pup who's climbing 5.13 gets on it he can adjust it real steep and overhanging but then an old weak pussy like myself gets on it I can ratchet it back to something that resembles Glacier Point Apron. You know what I mean. And different sizes too, with constrictions that mimic real rock. The Mazamas clubhouse in PDX has that almost going on on their wall.

    GOP to waterboard Cheney

    in Spray

    Posted

    If you paid attention to news outfits other than the corporate and right wing media, you'd know there are other candidates like Jill Stein (Green party) or Rocky Anderson (Justice party) who are resolutely anti-war, but who also happen to not advocate policies that favor the 1% like Ron Paul does.

     

    It's particularly rich to read from you that warmongers and islamophobes like JayB give a shit about ethical foreign policies. I guess coming from someone who discovered his conscience late during Bush's 2nd term, it shouldn't be too surprising.

     

    piss off wanker

    GOP to waterboard Cheney

    in Spray

    Posted

    .... I have a great deal of difficulty understanding how someone can oppose using a tactic like waterboarding on ethical grounds, without having considerably stronger objections to blowing the same person - along with his children, family, pet chickens, etc to pieces with an airstrike in order to achieve the same end...preventing the said person from orchestrating, assisting in, conducting, etc terrorist attacks in which they deliberately kill as many civilians as possible.

     

    I think that it makes good practical sense to blow them to pieces with a missile or bomb instead of apprehending them, since killing them in this fashion is likely to cost us far less politically than capturing them, detaining them, and interrogating them - even if this means killing multiple other people who just happen to be in the same madrassa. I'm just not about to pretend that it's more moral, or that making pledges not to torture AQ operatives that we happen to capture alive is anything but a practical and political concession so long as we'd gladly execute them with explosives when given the chance.......

     

    Opps. Caught with an innovative friends and family plan similar to what you outlined above. Can we still blame Bush?

     

    Titled "U.S. drones targeting rescuers and mourners"

    http://www.salon.com/2012/02/05/u_s_drones_targeting_rescuers_and_mourners/singleton/

     

    “Between May 2009 and June 2011, at least fifteen attacks on rescuers were reported by credible news media...

    The last line.

    Whatever else is true, it seems highly likely that Barack Obama is the first Nobel Peace laureate who, after receiving his award, presided over the deliberate targeting of rescuers and funeral mourners of his victims.

     

    Romney, same same with no Nobel prize is all, don't hold yer breath for hope or change after the next election bros, we got us a system going on here. A system.

     

    Paul is the only candidate suggesting we are way out of line here. What a nutjob. Clearly no one else (except Jayb it seems) gives a shit.

     

     

     

    Ahhh cripes!!!

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    In a sea of amazing lil up and coming Sharma like kids - your's is up near the top of the list someplace. Congrats for you both. Few things are as fun as climbing with your kid. I love the positive energy and fun loving psyched up spirit all these kids bring.

    Summitchaser CJB = Hardman

    in Spray

    Posted

    .....he's actually not a massive douche in real life. Tear him up on here but give him a chance if you see him out at the crags.

    I'm sure. That probably applies to Rob and some of the other bros here too I'd bet. Playing a douchbag online is all too easy...sadly.

     

    Sometimes people just get all stoked and it gets misinterpreted by us old fucks.

     

    Later geriatrics!

    Mitt's M&M's?

    in Spray

    Posted

    .....Personally, I would love to see Paul get the nomination. The quality of the debate would certainly go way up, and the GOP could certainly use some of his principles, even if shoved down their throats.

    Although I almost agree with that I'd have to call bullshit on that statement Pat. You'd be horrified. Hell, I'd be horrified and me being much closer to being a nutjob: as you know, I espouse a lot of what he says. I know that we both like to see some of those major issues he'd bring to the table be in the debate though. It looks like it won't happen. Anyway, he doesn't have a chance for the nomination, and he's older than Reagan was before Reagan got alzheimers....there is that....and the button.

     

     

    nuclear-power-button-278x225.jpg

     

    Hope I got them commas right for Miss panitesinabunchpunctuation up there.

     

    Regards to all.

    Does Anyone Really Care?

    in Spray

    Posted

    I could give a flying fuck who the next president of the US is.

     

    I totally know this is a ignorant defeatist attitude but I REALLY don't care and I'm not angry or anything...just detached. Does it matter anymore? I'm saturated with lying rhetoric from any party. I'm not liberal, democrat, conservative...I'm an un label.

     

    I have no TV, spend much of my time outdoors, and now I don't even turn on the radio.

     

    I'm as happy as can be!! I guess ignorance is truly bliss.

     

     

    I care, in fact I care A LOT: but "none of the above" is leading my choices right now. It looks like I will be writing that in.

    First Ascent Clothing - New choices

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Based on Danes Review, I bought 2 XV's for gifts 2 Christmas's ago.

     

    One gets worn daily all winter by my non-climbing brother around town. He'll show up in 45 degree rain after riding mass transit wearing the thing. He takes it everywhere and I rarely see him without it when it's under 40 degrees. Coldest place it's been may have been Antarctica as he ran a Marathon down there. He LOVES this jacket.

     

    My son, a climber, showed up this Christmas after driving back from college with his buddies in his flip flops and shorts. I flick him some crap about this state of undress (I pitched the classic: "What happens if you have car trouble?") and he says "Oh no big deal, we came across the blue mountains and had to chain up. The other guys really didn't know how to put chains on so I did it. Then as we were just finishing up some woman pulled up and asked if we'd put chains on her car so I did that one, and as I was finishing that, a real old woman pulled up and was almost pleading for me to do her car....I would have said no but she needed the help, so I did." He lights up. "She gave me $40 bucks too!.... I told her no way I was taking money to help her like 3 times and she kept insisting and you know I needed it so I happily gave in and took it." Last I heard, he loves his XV too, but I'll admit that unlike here, he lives where it's real cold, and I think he only wears it when he's in the Mtns and it butt-assed cold. I've never seen him wear it. I suspect he values it too much to wear it casually, and he likes to dress minimally to condition his body for the cold.

×
×
  • Create New...