billcoe
-
Posts
11895 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by billcoe
-
-
They were planning on 2 practice warm up laps and going for it Sunday. Han's got the block to Sickle Ledge and was up the 500 some odd feet in 16 min. !!! 16 min.
Bill Wright reports that they timed 2:53:32 for their practice run. Unbelievable. Until this go round, the acronym everyone has used to describe this has been NIAD (Nose In A Day), Mark Hudon cracked this joke to better describe this effort: NIAFM (Nose In A Few Minutes) LOL!!!
-
Rescue happening now according to the radio. Anyone have any info? Hope it's along the lines of a twisted ankle and not something life threatening serious.
Inadequate written version.
http://www.kgw.com/news/local/Rescue-crews-headed-to-Mount-Hood-after-climber-fall-159030815.html
At least it's great weather for a rescue operation today. They can get up there fast and safe.
-
Fantastic!!! Youse (honest) guys who reported them here instead of grabbing them rule!!!!
-
Christ, they're not the sonics any more! Get over it! Corporate pro sports has no mother and no soul.
It's all about the money. Past examples of moves:
Utah Jazz (formerly New Orleans- they ain't no jazz in Utah!)
Los Angles Lakers (named for the state of 10,000 lakes, they ain't no lakes in So cal.) Before they were the Minneapolis Lakers they were the Detroit Gems.
From Wiki:
1951: Tri-Cities Blackhawks (the "Tri Cities" area is now generally referred to as the "Quad Cities") moved to Milwaukee and became the Milwaukee Hawks.
1955: Milwaukee Hawks moved to St. Louis.
1957: Fort Wayne Pistons moved to Detroit.
1957: Rochester Royals moved to Cincinnati.
1960: Minneapolis Lakers moved to Los Angeles.
1962: Philadelphia Warriors moved to San Francisco.
1963: Chicago Zephyrs became the Baltimore Bullets.
1963: Syracuse Nationals moved to Philadelphia and became the Philadelphia 76ers.
1968: St. Louis Hawks moved to Atlanta.
1971: San Diego Rockets moved to Houston.
1972: Cincinnati Royals moved to a new primary home in Kansas City and a secondary home in Omaha, and became the Kansas City-Omaha Kings. The team ceased Omaha operations in 1975 and became the Kansas City Kings.
1973: Dallas Chaparrals moved to San Antonio and became the San Antonio Spurs.
1977: One year after the ABA-NBA merger, the New York Nets became the New Jersey Nets. Although the Nets moved within the New York metropolitan area, they dramatically changed their primary market within the area. When representing New York, they played in Nassau County on Long Island; their primary fanbase then shifted to New Jersey.
1978: Buffalo Braves moved to San Diego and became the San Diego Clippers.
1979: New Orleans Jazz moved to Salt Lake City.
1984: San Diego Clippers moved to Los Angeles.
1985: Kansas City Kings moved to Sacramento, California.
2001: Vancouver Grizzlies moved to Memphis, Tennessee.
Further information: Vancouver Grizzlies relocation to Memphis
2002: Charlotte Hornets moved to New Orleans.
and of course, your beloved SuperSonics.
-
Can't say on that. Sent the link to Scott and Mikel. No way someone bought 4 new reds from Totem and didn't use them I'd bet.
Bill
-
-
I saw that video of your start of the ground up first ascent of your new route on the North Face. Damned proud and bold stuff Scotty! The video sucked except for the parts of it where you are in the frame actually climbing, and that was the shit right there. You climb right through a little water fall at the start dancing on the knobs with yer rope running behind you ...I'm sitting watching it shivering...fear? Cold? Both perhaps. I tried to send the vid down to Adam and he couldn't see it, but I described it and he said pretty much what I just said above. We argued over the length of the route once you guys finish it. He's pretty sure it's going to be 400 feet of knobjobaliciouness, I'm thinking 250-300', but I'm sure you'll let me know once you finish it.
Miker photo below of the 2 half crazed warrior clansmen, the Mcdonald and the Peterson clans united. Rick McDonald (left) Scott Peterson (right).
It's cool that you named it after your late buddy and climbing mentor as well. "Brother Mike".
-
Like.
And agree on that last part too. Lil kids these dayz are amazing. Yours is certainly at the top of that group, but lots of lil kids are "rocking the walls". We won't have to wait 10 years to see a lot of new crazy stuff get climbed I'd bet.
ps - if you packaged and marketed the monkey brains, gibbon sinew, etc, you'd get rich for sure, the stuff seems to work.
-
Cordelettes DO NOT work, out of date John Long books aside. Stop using them.
John Long stopped suggesting using them in 1995 or so. Even beating your old Will Gadd post that dated from 1996 Drew.
"If every primary anchor placement could sustain a factor two fall, and moreover, if we all could reliably determine same with visual inspection, the rigging wouldn't much matter. Fact is there are many anchors out there built on so-so primary placements, and there are many climbers who lack the experience to know the relative strength of said anchors by simply eyeballing them.But beyond this, there is the issue of what is actually a better way to go about things, and what criteria we use to define "better."
A standard evaluation criteria is SRENE, and to that end, the cordelette unequal arm rig is not as effective as the equalette--which is just as simple and just as quick to rig as the original cordelette configuration, and is far superior in terms of equalization and redundancy.
A blanket statement claiming the cordelette is "safe," and that any contrary evidence is "rubbish" is simply not a well informed judgement. Moreover it encourages folks to continue using the cordelette unequal arm configuration after testing has shown it places the bulk of all dynamic loading on a single piece of gear. Switching to another system is an example of preventitive medicine. If you suggest that climbers wait till the disease (anchor failure) actually shows up, you've done nobody any favors.
But as someone already said--do as you please. But kindly don't imply that using the cordelette unequal arm configuration is a viable practice simply because more of such rigs haven't so far failed.
What is the logic in continuing to use a system that testing has show to be sketchy (in certain circumstances) when a better system has been provided? I can only look to the basic human tendency to resist change, and to call that wisdom.
JL
I suspect he's tossed that by now as well and is advocating just using the rope you are tied into. That is all he use to climb with when he was climbing. Pretty good thread here: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=729138&tn=0&mr=0
Rgold = Richard Goldstone.
Largo = John Long
-
1. Put a cam in close to you, clove hitch the rope to its racking biner.
2. Put another piece in a little further away, clove hitch the rope to it.
3. If you need another piece, put it in now, and clove to it.
4. Pull up rope, slap your [belay device of choice] on, and yell "On belay _"
*Climber ascends to belay, then continues to lead the next pitch. He yells down "I'm anchored _"
5. Start disassembling your anchor to whatever you feel comfortable with.
6. You hear "On belay _" from above.
7. Drop the last clove hitch or 2, rack those cam(s), and GO!
^^^THIS!^^^ Mugsy nails it, much faster and stronger than any cordelette. Not needed for belaying the 2nd on a long aid line. Fix and jug. Cordelettes can be real useful on long aid climbs where things get clustered up, but lots of real good aid climbers don't use them and don't want them. Mark Hudon, for instance, was recently pointing out that he has no use for them on hard El Cap routes and was showing pics of his clean looking anchors on Supertopo with just the rope and some butterfly knots.
So what you are left with is that clusterfuckolettes really excel when you have multiple climbers, say, you and too many noobs. Then it's sweeter than ABS and safety belts together. IMO. Metolius makes one of the damned sweetest ones out there, as it packs down into a tiny pack you clip off to your harness for deployment, and is a badassed strong piece of webbing. Ya might choke on the price but it's real solid and worth the scratch, but if you re-read Blakes link upthread, you're back to trying to keep it simple. No clusterfuckolettes for me. Not one, and especially not 2. It's a personal choice for me. Folks can and will do what they wish of course.
Good stuff.
-
anybody know what a spider is on this website....ive been wondering sice i joined
You bet, pick choice #1. SPIDER ON WEBSITE LINK WHERE ALL IS REVEALED
PS, LOVE SPIDERPIG!!!!!!!!!!!!!111111111111
-
Great story(s) Bob, thanks for sharing it!
-
The jean-pierre ouellet taping instructions which Jens references above can be found here. http://megapeewee.blogspot.com/2010/11/tape-gloves.html
Love that Steph Davis quote from the link up thread too.
Dear Tina,I think of tape as being kind of like climbing shoes. If it’s a pretty easy climb, you want your most comfy shoes. If it’s a pretty easy crack climb, I don’t bother to tape. If it’s a hard crack, and more technical, you have two choices: tape after you rip your skin, or tape before you rip your skin
-
Flying Cat
in Spray
Bill, Obama has purchase 100s of them to blow up your terrorist friends.LOL - The mere though makes me Catatonic.
opps, shhh, terrorist cat is not "amuzed".
-
The wire brushes will also have the benefit of making the problems harder. They will wear off the little rugosites and irregularities. Use of poly or natural bristles will preserve the roughness.
Consideration for us V1 climbers:-) LOL
-
Flying Cat
in Spray
LOL, that's awesome. Once the Russians start in doing this to dogs, we'll see a real arms race.
-
Clearly there are 2 sides to every story. Rob would wish for larger and more effective missiles for the Palestinians.
I would merely wish for peace, which is something which takes 2 to accomplish.
-
And the big news YESTERDAY (June 6th, 2012), LA country commissioners decided to finally rescind their forced relocation of Japanese-American resolution that dates to 1942.
http://www.610wiod.com/cc-common/news/sections/newsarticle.html?feed=104668&article=10181023
To repeat:
LOS ANGELES (CNS) - The Los Angeles County Board of Supervisors today rescinded and revoked a 1942 resolution that urged the forcible relocation of Japanese Americans to internment camps.Whew, glad we are much more civilized and politically correct now. Although it says this as well:
Well, no, technically Mr Watanabe, the President can now just kill you and yours, and no one will seemingly give a shit. But at least no one will have to worry about you folks being locked up. Hope, change, progress and your tax dollars at work.Bill Watanabe was born at Manzanar, perhaps the most well-known of the camps, and until recently was the executive director of the Little Tokyo Service Center, a community development organization.Watanabe said revoking the resolution would sound an important message that ``whether you wear a turban or a hoodie ... your rights will always be respected.''
-
Jordon had occupied the city, then attacked Israel on the 2nd day of the 6 day war. Now they are thankfully at peace. Out with the old, in with the new.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jordanian_occupation_of_the_West_Bank_and_East_Jerusalem
-
I use to see all kind of outrage over El Presidente Bush here as it related to everything, but especially interrogation of prisoners. Yet as this article explains, President Obama has gone right past that questionable behavior that pissed ya all off to summary execution with plenty of innocent blood splatter as well and all we see here is silence. It's interesting.
"Barack Obama: Drone WarriorBy Charles Krauthammer, Published: May 31, 2012
A very strange story, that 6,000-word front-page New York Times piece on how, every Tuesday, Barack Obama shuffles “baseball cards” with the pictures and bios of suspected terrorists from around the world and chooses who shall die by drone strike. He even reserves for himself the decision of whether to proceed when the probability of killing family members or bystanders is significant.
The article could have been titled “Barack Obama: Drone Warrior.” Great detail on how Obama personally runs the assassination campaign. On-the-record quotes from the highest officials. This was no leak. This was a White House press release.
Why? To portray Obama as tough guy. And why now? Because in crisis after recent crisis, Obama has looked particularly weak: standing helplessly by as thousands are massacred in Syria; being played by Iran in nuclear negotiations, now reeling with the collapse of the latest round in Baghdad; being treated with contempt by Vladimir Putin, who blocks any action on Syria or Iran and adds personal insult by standing up Obama at the latter’s G-8 and NATO summits.
The Obama camp thought that any political problem with foreign policy would be cured by the Osama bin Laden operation. But the administration’s attempt to politically exploit the raid’s one-year anniversary backfired, earning ridicule and condemnation for its crude appropriation of the heroic acts of others.
A campaign ad had Bill Clinton praising Obama for the courage of ordering the raid because, had it failed and Americans been killed, “the downside would have been horrible for him. “ Outraged vets released a response ad, pointing out that it would have been considerably more horrible for the dead SEALs.
That ad also highlighted the many self-references Obama made in announcing the bin Laden raid: “I can report . . . I directed . . . I met repeatedly . . . I determined . . . at my direction . . . I, as commander in chief,” etc. ad nauseam. (Eisenhower’s announcement of the D-Day invasion made not a single mention of his role, whereas the alternate statement he’d prepared had the landing been repulsed was entirely about it being his failure.)
Obama only compounded the self-aggrandizement problem when he spoke a week later about the military “fighting on my behalf.”
The Osama-slayer card having been vastly overplayed, what to do? A new card: Obama, drone warrior, steely and solitary, delivering death with cool dispatch to the rest of the al-Qaeda depth chart.
So the peacemaker, Nobel laureate, nuclear disarmer, apologizer to the world for America having lost its moral way when it harshly interrogated the very people Obama now kills, has become — just in time for the 2012 campaign — Zeus the Avenger, smiting by lightning strike.
A rather strange ethics. You go around the world preening about how America has turned a new moral page by electing a president profoundly offended by George W. Bush’s belligerence and prisoner maltreatment, and now you’re ostentatiously telling the world that you personally play judge, jury and executioner to unseen combatants of your choosing and whatever innocents happen to be in their company.
This is not to argue against drone attacks. In principle, they are fully justified. No quarter need be given to terrorists who wear civilian clothes, hide among civilians and target civilians indiscriminately. But it is to question the moral amnesia of those whose delicate sensibilities were offended by the Bush methods that kept America safe for a decade — and who now embrace Obama’s campaign of assassination by remote control.
Moreover, there is an acute military problem. Dead terrorists can’t talk.
Drone attacks are cheap — which is good. But the path of least resistance has a cost. It yields no intelligence about terror networks or terror plans.
One capture could potentially make us safer than 10 killings. But because of the moral incoherence of Obama’s war on terror, there are practically no captures anymore. What would be the point? There’s nowhere for the CIA to interrogate. And what would they learn even if they did, Obama having decreed a new regime of kid-gloves, name-rank-and-serial-number interrogation?
This administration came out opposing military tribunals, wanting to try Khalid Sheik Mohammed in New York, reading the Christmas Day bomber his Miranda rights and trying mightily (and unsuccessfully, there being — surprise! — no plausible alternative) to close Guantanamo. Yet alongside this exquisite delicacy about the rights of terrorists is the campaign to kill them in their beds.
You festoon your prisoners with rights — but you take no prisoners. The morality is perverse. Which is why the results are so mixed. We do kill terror operatives, an important part of the war on terror, but we gratuitously forfeit potentially life-saving intelligence.
But that will cost us later. For now, we are to bask in the moral seriousness and cool purpose of our drone warrior president."
-
The use of the Cramers as Sobo says, or a light coat of Benzoin, will help keep the tape from ripping your skin off when you pull the tape off and is highly recommended. Furthermore, you will start the day with some fingertip protectant. Even just a week of laps in Joshua Tree will give you bloody fingertips if you have been doing little over the winter.
As far as tape brands, Johnson and Johnson is great stuff, but I actually think that regardless of brand, new (not old) is as important. If you buy too much and break if out a couple years later, (insert sad face here).
As far as shaving your hands, use like a Nair cream to avoid the razor, and if you buy it in something which looks like a toothpaste tube, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT PUT IT IN YOUR SHAVING KIT WITH THE TOOTHPASTE AND TOILETRIES OR YOUR TEETH WILL TASTE LIKE SHIT WHEN YOU BRUSH WITH IT. I still have a bad 25 year old memory of doing this exact thing in JT....22-23 hour drive straight through, wanted to brush my teeth, wasn't paying close attention: whammm. LOL! Hope someone learns form that:-0
-
pfft, cost?....they could keep the dirigibles floating indefinitely with just 1/2 of the hot air we give off in spray.....
-
IMHO Messner is an over-hyped climber, he was just the first one there. Jerzy Kukuczka did way better than him and in much better style. Nobody back then is in the same league as Steck as far as solo of technical difficulty and speed
How many 2000 foot unclimbed cliffs did Kukuczka or Steck stand at the base of, then just climb sans rope for a free-solo first ascent of the highest grade done with a rope at the time?
-
Nice links Rudy, thanks.
The fall is a little past the 17:30 mark. Looks like the lad had enough time to scream, crap his pants, change his underwear and then scream again before he stopped had he so chosen.
Snakes are awake at Vantage
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
Wowzer! Flung it? Wow