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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. CAMP USA Iconic 10.2mm Climbing Rope One Color, 60M - After discount - $94.97 each! Free shipping. Link 7 fall UIAA rating. 66gms meter. Use it to tow your car or tie your dog up, it's that cheap!
  2. Ha ha, Don, unbelievable how you crashed a thread about how f*ed up and boring the climbing scene was around here, basically elimanted climbing from the discussion, harshed everyones buzz as you slammed them all, and with your presence and words alone fulfilled and proved the original point! And you want an entire thread to continue to do this very thing? NO F*ing WAY! Ha ha ha . Why not just sit there and slap yourself upside the head with a hammer "Mr. Donny Downer Dude". OMG! I'm ROTFLMAO again! It's almost painfully funny in a strange satirical manner. Donny, seek help dude. Seek help! ps, I started rap bolting a new 300+' overhanging line Sat which I think I'll name in your honor. Then I got in 600' on Sunday at a 2nd locations and then put an anchor into a new route at a 3rd location that was done earlier all gear and I'm still sore today. Do you even leave your house anymore? Dude, get out of your house, turn off the news, and enjoy the glad tidings of the outdoors son!
  3. In the backcountry, get a bear barrel. If you don't have a bear barrel (bad planning on your part), tossing a rope over a tree and hiking your gear up 25' won't work (trust me). Better to bury the entire food bag under a flat rock, pee all around the rock and put some Cayenne Peanuts on top as an offering. The bear will show, start eating the nuts and immediately leave for a water source and not come back. Remember this.
  4. billcoe

    road trip tunes

    Hmmmm, "Eat a Peach?" Very nice. Jackson Browne. I can listen to him all day and never get sick of it. Album "I'm Alive" and "Late for the Sky" and the one with Redneck Friend on it. Classics.
  5. Glad that worked out. I have some other approach shoes that I'd beg to have sticky rubber on. One more thing to buy if you plan on ever buying another pair of shoes (OK, the last pair I got from ClimbMax needed this treatment as well) Link Shoe stretchers. Says" Make every pair of shoes you own feel like they were made just for you! This pair of professional-quality two-way wooden shoe stretchers can expand both the length and width of tight shoes for a roomier, more comfortable fit. Each stretcher comes with pop-in plugs to create a little extra room for problem spots like corns and bunions. These stretchers are so easy to use. Simply put them inside your shoe. Is the shoe just a little tight? Turn the crank to gently expand the width of the shoe. Is the shoe rubbing the back of your heel? Turn the knob to gently stretch a little more length into the shoe. Leave them in for a few hours to overnight to achieve permanent results. Do you have a problem area on your foot, like a corn or bunion? Or does a particular shoe just rub your big toe a bit too much, or cramp your little toe a bit? Just put one of the four included plastic inserts into the proper hole in the shoe stretcher before putting it in your shoe. The insert will add just the right amount of room to make every pair of shoes you have feel like the most comfortable pair you’ve ever worn. These stretchers are of the highest quality hardwood and steel and will last for many years of great service."
  6. Someone had to preserve it as a quote! Hola Rodriguez. Welcome to our community of peace and love. What I've noted is that the way folks talk to each other online would often warrant a major ass kicking or at least an immediate punch in the mouth if they were to speak that way directly to another over a campfire. However, with the distance of the internet and the anonymity it brings comes a certain snarkyness and meanness of tone which is difficult to lay down on words. It doesn't have anything to do with Dems and repubs though, I suspect thats an age thing. Anyway, welcome to the site. Hey, what about the wafflers who cannot decide between Obama and McCain? Are they good climbers or bad? Or maybe they have good and bad days? Just asking.
  7. billcoe

    Fat kid falling

    Nah Minx, it's that those of us who had brothers can relate to it. Brothers are always looking for ways to express their love. pendejo means brother: right? Here's Bush taking about his brother (I think). Fr_Dec6oOPg
  8. Holy fucking shit: I just realized that Don hasn't respinded to me as he hasn't read a word I've written cause he really must have me on "Ignore" ha ha! Hey, can somebody copy my earlier Teddy Kazinsky manifesto that starts out "ONE MORE THING" so that Don can read it and not stay so totally ignorant? OMG, toooooo fuunnnny! It's like when a lil' kid puts his fingers in is ears so as to not have to listen to an older, smarter brother! Ha ha! OMFG! Ignorance is bliss they say Donny! Dude, you're like so smart AND so dumb its truly painful to watch! H ha ha ha! ROTFLM big AF!
  9. Thinking of Hueco Tanks, where rumor was that Skinner got under the skin of some local climbers who called in the rangers for help: whining, crying and complaining to them. Later- everyone got screwed due to this bullshit. And it is exactly that: bullshit. Climbers can be their own worst enemy. Don, you can make a bigger impact by being there and having these discussions mano-y-mano with these pups, teaching them out of love and helping them grow. I see Jimmy O do this all the time, and he has shaped Beacon Rock and it's strong traditional ethics via that method alone. He has no internet access and rejects the computer totally as a way to transmit these kinds of ideas. Spraying some of this crap on the internet is pointless and may in fact actually be counterproductive as people shut off their thinking caps in total rejection.
  10. Yes already, please don't make us beg now! Is that a liberty bell route...?....?
  11. We're done with the important stuff now? I can go? OK, Cya
  12. I didn't doubt Chad Kellogg either, everyone but the guy with the dog thinks CK is very honest as well. Well I'm positive I could still do it if one of these fellas would be kind enough to carry me on their back.
  13. Ohhh Minx, a reverse thread move? Thats hot!
  14. Ha ha! No one ever guessed who's quote it was? !! Don Ryan, aka Raindawg. This is still going on in spray, I quoted Don again, like I did in the very first thread except he didn't own up to the quote here and no one figured it out. Or you can buy and read Raindawgs book here: AMazon link "The World of the Bible" By Don Ryan - Don is an excellent writer who can bring history alive and make it interesting. Highly recommended.
  15. No Minx, these are honest, heartfelt, discussions with substance and climbing related. Besides that, theres already plenty of shit to go talk on other threads:-) Show of hands now, who has posted a climbing pic on spray today! Come on, show of hands!
  16. ONE MORE THING: You do have it wrong on me, no not the asshole part, thats true enough. About the bolts. _______________________________________________________________ I'm doing a route list for a friend (new area which has been secret, that is going to ease into the public domain and consciousness soon). Before the first route gets noted, I start out the list with these exact words: "There are multiple top ropes throughout the area, some of which are described and some of which are not. Please do not think that just because there are not bolts stuck in a face, that by putting in bolts you are doing a FA. You are not. What you are doing is sticking bolts into an area which intentionally did not have bolts in it by earlier climbers. This was left that way for a reason by those who were here first. If you plan on putting in bolts in opposition and disagreement to what all the previous climbers who have and continue to climb here thought or think, plan on having your new bolts removed. Described from West to East Hummingbird Wall and Hummingbird Terrace: Hummingbird Wall is located at the West end of the climbing area, just before the trail drops 10' and crosses the garbage drop zone. When climbing in this area, note that many Skamania County locals have been coming and scavenging the former garbage dump here for over 30 years, so be careful not to drop or knock off rocks or big sticks unless you are sure you are alone and that non-climbers, who have no awareness at all that you may be perched invisibly up high, are not present. Because of the shockingly easy routes in the area, the ledge area intentionally did not have gym climbing style bolted anchors put in or any fixed anchors AT ALL. You MUST ascent to the top to get off. This was done so that young climbers could get a feel for what a real climb might entail, and have an opportunity to learn how to build a multi-pitch gear anchor at the base of the upper climbs. It is requested that future climbers leave the ledge this way to maintain that feeling. If you disagree with that philosophy, thats fine, but please go renew your gym membership and stay home. Very small pro is mandatory for the anchors. Topping out is thus mandatory, and a great way to end the day to access cars and top out, as well as the ledge just being a nice place to hang out and enjoy the day or have lunch. First the lower routes L-R, then the upper routes will be described. " These were my words above, I prefaced it with what I believe. We all do what we can. I think that I totally agree with what Don prefaced his book - and these are his words, quoted verbatim from his book. "The people who object most strongly to anything, I have found, are those who believe that there is only one way of thinking, and that way is their own." I did that after I saw both Joseph, and later I, had the same conundrum: which was that we cleaned off and toproped great lines on face routes next to gear routes. Now what? Hmmm. We left them alone, not wanting to put in gratuitous bolts and fully expected some gym climber would show up at later, add rapbolts after toproping it themselves to claim a FA, and change the head of the area for future climbers. Thought that this solved it. I have asked that anyone who has toproped a climb in this area submit it as a toproped FA, I have like 5 routes like that which various people want to leave alone so far. 2 are mine and one is JH's. Not far away is another cliff which was extensivly rap bolted. The ethics are different and it's all good. I did some ground up FA's there 25 years ago and they got lost to history, forgotten and- or rap bolted. Still a good place to hang for a bit and get some rock in. They both are, but they are different for sure. Different head, different gig. All good. Oh, the cleaning stuff is very involved work and usually done on rap so as to not get killed by loose rocks. Here's a before pic. The dotted line proposed new route. The rope was a friends, to the right of the rope I'd onsight ground up lead that earlier with gear chewing on dirt and moss all the way. There was a group of onlookers hanging around to pick up the pieces in case I greased and the few partial #2 ballnut placements pulled like they appear to want to do. For the route on the right, after I lowered down off that tree there, they all went up it and each successive ascent they all cleaned out a new handhold or placement, so the route got cleaner and easier simultaneously. Good times. and the after pic. That's my wide ass up there. But please re-read Dons sentence which I agree with and lifted directly from his book (very well written book I'll add: excellent!)
  17. Well, I appreciate you sticking up for him: because you are Dons friend, you are willing to give him a pass where so many times someone just shows up with a "whooo hoooo" for some amazing feat, and Don just pisses on their parade for no apparent reason? Sorry guy, he may not be an old, nasty, angry curmudgeon, but he plays one well on the net! I'd still tie in with him or have a beer with him, cause I suspect what Matt says about internet communication and the problems therein are doubly applicable here. And thats the Sad F&*king truth. (Opps, now I went and responded.)
  18. No sleep ? Hard core:-)
  19. anyone? My fingers are to the bone from soloing some sharp stuff Saturday, I actually think there may be some rock under my fingernail, but I'm game for Tuesday (maybe bigger holds and neosporin for me). I can belay up to 5.11 still....(with a gri gri), so no worries there. Edit: 5:30 John, I'll be looking for you!
  20. Makes you wonder if there was some deeper slush ....cause damn it was warm this weekend. That makes it even more impressive. I bet this is gonna be like the race to climb the Nose fast. I wonder if a sub-2 hour time will eventually get recorded when some well honed kid hits it in tennis shoes in perfect conditions. Where's the Hubers? If nothing else, it gives the guy with the dog someone else other then Chad Kellogg to rag on:-)
  21. "Hope for the best but prepare for the worst". It's what I keep in my head. That and "Organize and execute around written Priorities". (been a bit remiss on that lately:-) You'll sleep so much better at night Fear and Greed. However, judging from all the signs I'm reading, it oculd be a bit rocky around Nov 4th! Could be a good day to sleep in:-)
  22. Thanks for reminding me that due to some missed communications I had to leave my 3 shotguns at home this weekend (the weekends combo platter was gonna be shotguns and climbing). The highlight was either the crunching sound as I sat a case of clay pigeons down a bit hard, or Kyle helping me put my junk back in the house and dropping a box of 20 ga shells and having them roll all over the floor. We got @3/4 of them back in the box. Glad he didn't drop the CASE of 12 ga shells. It was nice in that in packing up my stuff, I remembered that I'd loaned my Pump Remington 12ga shotgun out to a buddy a year and a half ago and still hadn't gotten it back yet. I'd pretty much forgotten about it. I mean, how many starlings are there in rural Tillamook County anyway? I suspect it's less than before. Good picture Scott.
  23. Ha ha ! He got 9000 but had to chalk up for it! Wow, looking at your registration date Kev (and being math challenged), is that a post every 16 min.!
  24. Damn Bug, and that's the edited version. You fall over and sit on an unlubricated corncob or what the hell? BTW, Porter is my favorite. Black Butte Porter though, although the other one is pretty good too.
  25. Don, unlike many of your other posts, where it appears that you reach way out to the edge of extremism to try and get a point across, this is a clear and reasonable post with very valid points. I think that I agree with everything you said except the Smith part. I 90 percent of the time climb cracks and occasionally aid like Monkey Face. I like the place. BTW, Matt make some real good points about the difficulty of communicating with this medium. Warm regards Bill
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