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Everything posted by billcoe
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uhhhh....these dudes probably don't need that kind of provocation to get started.... BTW, I don't consider it an insult to be called a Fanboi. The chick rocks. As far as the comment above about people who have posted on this thread being able to freesolo that stuff.....lets hear and see it.
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No one here questions how amazing this is (I think), but think of it much like guys watching the Miss Universe contest and critiquing a mole on an amazing girls' thigh.....I think it's part of human nature to observe things not easily discernible. For myself, it is nothing short of amazing to the point I'm nearly speachless when an Alex Honnold free solos a Moonlight buttress (V 5.12d) or something like this gets done. Joesph, great link. The filming must have been terribly difficult yet they pieced together a nice short film there.
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Better than Gatoraid: it's the Paul Newmans "Newmans Own" empty Grape juice bottles for the large sizes but the Stainless packs and fits into the little spots in the freezer.
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Shaken, not stirred, you are suggesting? My son assures me that the chemistry and inertness of stainless steel means these are safe to drink out of, but my suspicions on the taste which develops after a few days means that you aren't getting pure water, but water which may have chromium and nickel leaching into it. ...not that there is anything wrong with that.....guess we're all gonna die at some point. The Romans who were rich way back when and had money got the best they could afford as well. Lead pipes and storage vessels. You should all know how that worked out. http://www.epa.gov/history/topics/perspect/lead.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_pipe http://chestofbooks.com/crafts/scientific-american/sup4/The-Water-Supply-Of-Ancient-Roman-Cities-Part-3.html
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Bammm! Nailed it! LOL!!!!!
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If I can summarize a few others views. I'm not sure everyone is signing on that it's the Governments place to get in and be mom and dad here. Perhaps I can illustrate by asking this way: Can we not all agree that food and water are basic and critical necessities and more important than health care? Does it then not follow that the Gov't is responsible for making sure everyone is fed ?
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You talkin about the teeth marks on the big one up there?
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Place I go has a spring coming out of the side of the mountain. When my knees are co-operating I load up on water and freeze it for later consumption. My first SS water bottles suggested that I give a little more room for expansion than the poly bottles needed.
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Yup, great story, Fowler was so unassuming on that stuff. I think it originally had another name, and when Charlie freesoloed it, they all changed the name to the "Casual" route.. at like 5.10 which at the time was a hard grade. I think he did the DNB in Yosemite in a similar, non-chestbeating manner. Just casually replied to someone who asked what he had climbed that day....
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Fu*k Petzl. I'm boycotting their ropes for the reasons which Jeff points out above (Hemp22) Do a search. Read this link to start. http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_view_flat;post=1785716;page=1;mh=-1;;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC This one was used for "five top rope climbs". Some of the folks are saying they had it look like that in a week or 2. If it was just a single instance, OK. But it was many many people who had their Zephrys fall apart and Petzl just ignored them all. I'd stick with someone who takes care of their customers well like New England Ropes, Mammut, etc: screw Petzl.
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It's a serious consideration Mark, especially since the only other climber to do that very route free solo later died free soloing. Makes you wonder what kinds of odds one is getting. I had a friend once tell me that people commonly die every winter freesoloing in Joshua Tree and yet it never makes it further than the local news down there. Activity Deaths per 100,000 Participants/ Deaths per 100,000 days of participation SKIING 0.26 / .039 SWIMMING 1.6 .05 HUNTING 0.55 .037 SKYDIVING 8.7 .79 SNOWMOBILING 1.04 .12 SCUBA DIVING 3.5 .47 BICYCLING 0.94 .018 RIDING IN PASSENGER CAR 8.5 .023 RESIDENTIAL FIRE 0.89 .0003
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"When you ride your bike, you're working your legs, but your mind is on a treadmill. When you play chess, your mind is clicking along, but your body is stagnating. Climbing brings it together in a beautiful, magical way. The adrenaline is flowing, and it's flowing all the time." — Pat Ament.
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[video:youtube] The Beer Bike is coming to America! "Those crazy Dutch. Not only do they have hash bars and street urinals, they also have "beer bikes." Amstel Light's contraption is essentially a rolling bar that includes a working tap when stationary. After the 8-10 riders have had their fill of their light beer, they must peddle in unison to get the beer bike rolling. (Not an easy task, one would think.) The bikes are part of the brand's continued effort to "bring a taste of Amsterdam to America" under its "One dam good bier" campaign. Fortunately, there is a driver on board who steers the vehicle and who presumably hasn't had any imported beer or hash." Mmmmmmmmmmm....beer....mmmmmm
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I don't. Looking at Justin Thibault's (Choada Boy) continual attack posts that never have any logic, address the issue or are on topic, I just figured he must be too stupid to formulate thoughts of his own which make sense and are well argued and on topic and perhaps he's just plain mentally fucked up so this is his plea for attention. In either case, I decided to ignore him like most others on this site. Regards
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What Joseph says about corporate sponsorship is true. She could be thinking all kinds of nasty, interesting things, and not say a word outside of the platitudes we hear for fear of loosing a sponsorship deal. What Jayb says is right on with Pat Ament, except some of his stuff is pretty good...it was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Her freesolos are still an amazing thing.... one loose rock falling down from above or a pulled hold...whew.
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I was thinking of the time I was at the end of pitch 2 of Warriors and you free-soloed through via the Corner and you had a rope over your shoulder and a full rack in your backpack....I offered for you to join us but you declined. Piles of dead kittens heh heh
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Only if I have a rope, unlike some:-)
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Amazing, who was it and did he expain why he'd leave stuff at Carver?
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I thought this was on the money Off. Perfect as Fuck as they say. Only adding that once I've either TR or led a route, for me, it's usually at least as enjoyable, perhaps even more as the rack and weight gets paired down, to go lead it again (as long as it wasn't a pants filling moment the first time). I love Young Warriors and SE Corner at Beacon as much now as ever, for instance. Sure, I know what pro to bring now...and still sort of forget...but it's all good.
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Oh man, nailed it!!
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Huh?!!! I thought she was a virgin still?
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There's an account of Mozy below I copied and pasted which makes it look fairly poor at restoring. " { 2009 03 19 } Mozy: Great, Until You Need to Restore This is the second and final part of my account of my experiences with the on-line backup service offered by Mozy. The first part is here. As I related in my last Mozy-related post, I started using the on-line backup service in late 2007, and all went reasonably well at first. The initial backup took well over a month, but — once it was complete — it was a great load off my mind to know that I had 30 gigabytes worth of photos, music, personal and work-related documents, and applications and settings saved remotely. My data was protected against both machine failure and — because my data was spread out all over Mozy’s servers — theft, fire, or tsunamis. Then my hard drive failed. I had Computer ER, a computer-repair shop here in Missoula, replace it with a new one, and looked ahead to restoring my files quickly and easily from my Mozy backup. There are several methods of restoring from a Mozy backup, but the company’s tech support told me that the ideal method for my situation was what is called a “web restore” (i.e., downloads, as opposed to using the Mozy application on the desktop, which didn’t seem able to find all of the files I had specified for backup). I signed onto the Mozy web site and began my web restore. I selected the files that I wanted restored (which turned out to be far from all of them) and submitted my request. In a few hours, I received an email from Mozy indicating that my requested files were now available for download. Following the link, I found a web page with about seven downloadable files, each named something like “download 1” and each containing about 1 GB of data. I also learned that these downloads would only be available for seven days, at which point I would need to start the web restore process over from scratch. Over the next few days, I downloaded all of the seven files, which turned into “disk image” files on my desktop. These had names like “restore_2009_02_27_17_23_572237.dmg”; when I expanded these files, they generated “mounted disks” with names like “345802.2.dmg.” As I explored the various mounted disks, I discovered that fully five of them contained a folder named Documents, none of which were complete. * One version of Documents contained the subfolder “writing” but nothing else; another version of Documents contained a version of “writing” and several other subfolders, etc. * My Documents subfolder “Clients” was available in several versions, none of which contained all of my original Clients subfolders. * In turn, one version of my Clients folder would contain the subfolder for a given client but only some of the completed projects that should have been in that folder; the rest were scattered across several other versions of the Clients folder, in turn contained within several versions of “writing,” within several versions of Documents, etc., ad nauseam (and I do mean nausea). What all of this meant was that I could not easily drag and drop the contents of the restored files back into the proper locations on my hard drive. If I dragged Documents from one mounted disk onto the hard drive, the next version of Documents I dragged in would erase the first one. I couldn’t even drag and drop the first level of subfolders, since, for example, I had several versions of the subfolder “writing,” each containing different files. After mucking about in disbelief for a while, I determined that the only way to reassemble the files and hierarchies I had before would be to go folder by folder, starting at the lowest level of subfolder and working backwards to the main folder, combining files as I went. For my Documents folder alone, this would have meant having five finder windows open at once in order to be able to compare the contents of the various subfolders, so as to ensure I wasn’t leaving anything out. At a rough estimate, this would have taken me days and days. I quickly gave up on this method. Too hard to monitor, too hard to be sure I was being complete, too much time wasted. Instead, I pulled all of the versions of the contents of my various restored fragments of my Documents folders into specially named folders on my hard drive. It’s all there, and I should be able to find everything by using my laptop’s search function, but I can’t just navigate through folders to an old project like I could before.* To say this is not the outcome I’d been expecting from a restore would be an understatement. Thinking maybe I’d missed something, I checked the Mozy web site. Nope, they do advertise their service as being “easy to use,” and — as far as I can find — there is no fine print reading “unless you actually need to restore anything” or “but of course your file hierarchy will be left in smoking ruins.” The site also presents a list of snarky alternatives to Mozy (as in, only an idiot wouldn’t use Mozy), such as “pay $200/year for an online backup service that uses old, mediocre software.” In fact, after this experience, it is difficult to imagine software more mediocre than Mozy’s, at least when it comes to the actual restore process. My upgraded hard drive has approximately four times as much space as my old one. Looking ahead to the kind of shambles that would result from this sort of restore of that much more information, I quickly decided that there must be a better way and decided to cancel my Mozy account. This put me on the radar of the company’s Customer Retention department; a representative contacted me, writing: ”We would love the chance to work with you to resolve any issues you have and to make sure your experience with Mozy is positive. If you like, I can escalate your issue and get any problem or concern is resolved quickly.” In response, I explained the problems I’d been having in essentially the same terms as above, and — saying that I felt that Mozy was advertising more than it was capable of delivering — I reiterated my desire to cancel my account and requested all of my money back ($5 a month for about a year, so around $60). I take it as a final verdict on Mozy that the next contact from Customer Retention was not an explanation of how I’d gotten something wrong, how the restore process is really easy if you just take these additional steps, etc. Nope. The next contact simply advised that my account had been cancelled and a whole $5 had been refunded to my account, and expressed the “hope that we can do business in the future.” Not likely. _____ *I also discovered that I had apparently not saved all the files necessary to restore my calendar; that was my fault, not Mozy’s, but it’s a good word to the wise that even backing up requires some technical knowledge to do well. " from http://www.marginnotes.net/2009/03/19/mozy-great-until-you-need-to-restore/
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I'm getting some pictures accumulated, and generally have them on 2 computers. Wondering about online backups. Anyone recommend any?
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She soloed the Diamond 4 times. Amazing stuff for sure. Here's a great story. http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07f/newswire-solo-diamond-steph-davis Derek Hershey, seen below years before, was the only other free soloist to do this line.
