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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. Maybe all that's just too much angst PP. Certainly if someone went to Broughtons and rap bolted an A4 line, the bolts would be pulled quickly. ( LINK TO BREAKING NEWS AT BROUGHTONS ) That's a very expensive proposition. Right now, there are a few "secret" areas around. Some are rife with bolts, and some are hard rock long crack climbs. In fact, the crack climbing area has been infested by sportos (you know who you are, and you know I'm kidding on that infestation comment there LOL). However, they are doing new routes, at a new area. Who the hell are the old f*s to tell them they can't do the new 5.12 sport arete route when there are still 300' splitter cracks on either side as yet unclimbed? The travel is far enough that the old guys don't creak up there often, and when they do, maybe they walk past going tsk tsk, but REALLY would prefer to spend the day climbing virgin splitters and not screwing around all day with a hard to get on sport climb. To what end would that be to mess with it anyway? The old f*s told them about the new spot, and they are friends. The bolts there make no difference and effect no one in any way if they chose to not climb it because they are cough* old *cough* and fat* cough*. It's all good. Who cares ? No one. That is a different thing than showing up at an old, established area like Beacon, where 60 plus years of tradition already exist, and bolting an arete between 2 classic cracks which no one has ever done. If that's what you are discussing there, I would think that cost, and public scorn like at the Broughtons thread, would be the big discouragement.
  2. The Christening will have to be put on hold then: it's (as noted in the picture below) anyway. That's right. ____________________________________________________________ Hey Drew - I saw they got the bobblehead version of you out now. Congrats dude. They come in what they call the "realistically sized G-Spot 2" high" versions.
  3. :throat clearing noise: Wayne, you've lived in both camps, what does your throat clearing noise mean?
  4. billcoe

    Hydraulics are aid

    That could have gone bad!
  5. You sound like an acquaintance, lets call him Norm, who's wife took him for 1/2 of a multi-million dollar business that he started and ran by himself. He made the mistake of thinking he could have her answer the phones -which she did as poorly as you could imagine. She often would piss off total strangers when she was in a mood, which was most of the time. The court interpreted this poor work history as owning half of of the business. I think he's making payments of $12,000 a month to the alleged "ex-bitch". What was the first thing Normy did? Go get married again, 3rd time then he sold the business for 1.2 mil and change. Did he get a pre-nup? No. So 3 words for the graduate: pre-nup pre-nup pre-nup wiht a binding arbitration clause (lets call that a "Sanity Claus") is the moral of that story. I hear guys say "but I don't have anything", which is often true. Then you build up something and when she leaves, that's again true only after they have refrained from murdering her because the lawyers got so nasty. At least with a pre-nup, you are forced into arbitration, and not a nasty, expensive court fight. Congrats on the path back to sanity BTW. My lil bro just finished this horrible, expensive, process (I think he though his ex spent $60,000-80,000 on attorneys fees), and I could clearly relate to the news stories one reads of partners who choose to snuff their ex's rather than go through this emotionally laden, painful, no-win process.
  6. Seriously? People happily and gladly live in worse. You need to get out of the house some more and mingle with us peons Jay. It's the American dream baby! One mans dream date is another mans nightmare I suppose. Especially if the price was right.
  7. Tyler, Brian Holcomb had told us his route was unfinished so we went up to finish it back in the 80's sometime I think. I vaguely remember it was Bob McMahon, Andrew Trzynka and I. We did not make it to the high point before saying F**k this and bailing. I never went back and I don't think I could have guessed it from your picture, so thanks for sharing the name. Great guess Radek, what a total obscurity! ___________________________________________________________________ Greg, when is this rap-a-thon? _________________________________________________________________ One of the many obscurities on the North side of Beacon that no one climbs?
  8. Off, you are one of the calmer heads around, and your work is appreciated, don't change a thing. I suppose though, that given that this was a location where one could freely act like a retarded 6 year old at will, it must be quite the surprising shock when a normal person, brought up on a diet of reduced spray threads with a bunch of semi-normal folks posting, wanders over here to the "Columbia River Mental Institution Climbers Home" forum.
  9. That's so cool Kellie! I'm down with trail building! Strange that the dates are so far apart though. You want to be on this in the spring, trails suck when the dirt is dry and hard. First date coming up soon: 5/23/2010 (Sorry - didn't see in in your post) Ya have to register at REI here: REI Registration There is only 90 slots available. 89 slots left. Anyone climbing without registering will be arrested and sent to jail. Just kidding about the jail part....I think. ps, Climbmax has those real light sick Kong nut tools in stock right now. W00T for Climbmax!
  10. LOL More Tiger paradies here. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/04/08/the-tiger-woods-commercia_n_530824.html#s79745 ..and then there's this one: Which says "...but does it matter?"....underneath it.
  11. sometimes it gets cold out there.. ______________________________________________________________ obligatory Beacon pics
  12. It's inevitable that this will turn into another Beacon Rock argument thread...
  13. RUN FOREST RUN!!! The sky is falling the sky is falling. We have always been at war with Oceania BP end of year 2007 estimates US DOE web site. 1,238,892 BILLION Barrels With a BBBBBBB at the start there. Buhillion! Oil and Gas journal as of 1-1-2009 1,342.207 BILLION Barrels "Full blown energy crisis!" I see, heh heh http://www.eia.doe.gov/emeu/international/reserves.html "We have never been at war with Oceania
  14. I think that's that public park in Lake Oswego Ben. They want it clean so they don't lose any more children in there. Erie resemblance to this though:
  15. Later we learned that hundreds of millions of deaths would occur from starvation as well as population growth exceeded food production. It was a sure thing. All the smart money said so. "The battle to feed humanity is over. In the 1970s, the world will undergo famines. Hundreds of millions of people are going to starve to death in spite of any crash programs embarked upon now. Population control is the only answer." - Ehrlich in his book, The Population Bomb (1968), predicting widespread famine that never materialized "
  16. When I was in high school, the smart money all said that we would run out of Gasoline before the year 2000.
  17. Oh boy! Free trebuchet rides!!!! W00T! Reference copy for posterity, Lancegranites post:
  18. billcoe

    Metallica

    Best song/video in a rock climbing vid goes to Dan Osman and Metallica. The Unforgiven. OMG! Great stuff. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXOnGRJwrRs Don't have sound at work, think its the right one. Check out the zipper at 6:00, man, my testicles are up in my throat and my palms are sweating just watching that. Dude set that up intentionally. Wow!
  19. Love the lil Patagonia ruggermatic he's wearing.... So cool you guys are getting out! I was doing rental houses back then, remember propping my daughter (now 24 years old!) in a bassinet in the corner so I could paint, much better to get the lil one outside.
  20. The "VIOLATOR" ?
  21. Ding ding ding ding Found the owner. Black sling, 4 biners.
  22. Anyone leave any gear toproping the central route, as in the route that is dead center of The Far Side which starts out as a squeeze chimney? If missing some gear after climbing out there PM me the identity of the gear and it's yours.
  23. Retard cat say's "What"?
  24. Found on Center Squeeze at The Far Side today. Looked like someone had set up a toprope setup off of a single bolt at the anchor, leaving the other bolt alone. Very curious. Describe it and you can have it back.
  25. Oh man, it's all sweet! Ditto on the thanks!
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