billcoe

No Mark, you have it mostly right from my memory. Doug Phillips, the owner of Metolius, said something like: "in testing, one in 20 cams, which otherwise look like good placements, will fail". I believe it was in some Climbing Magazine interview. Obviously I'm paraphrasing, and whenever someone my age paraphrases you probably should take it with less than a grain of salt:-) However, he also said that a slight tug, as if to set the piece, upped the number of good placements dramatically. Of course, after I posted this I later googled it and came up with my own post of a year earlier:-) http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/900381/Re_OP_Link_cam_failure_purple_

Your assertions, accusations and beliefs of what others think and do are so off base, and your entire demeanor so juvenile, that most of us are left wondering if you really are just a punk kid typing in your mommy's basement on a computer she bought you for your birthday. I tried feeding you back some of your own words and material but you didn't see it as an attempt to help you out, but as a vicious attack, which is (EXACTLY) what you have been doing about every other post. Seriously. That's what you make it look like. A Punk kid. I'm not interested in having this kind of a discussion for real, and as you don't feel I'm any help to you, good luck kid.

Oh? You didn't hear? It's talk like jb day: how's it feel - retard.

Look nitwit, I'll talk slow, I'm saying that this thread is about Germany and you don't know jack shit about jack or shit "jackass". I only count my blessings that idiots like you are not in charge of this country or we'd be swimming in shit like Greece.

Well - you don't appear to know jackshit about jack shit but that hasn't stopped you from flapping your lips criticizing everyone in an endless manner on all sorts of things you're totally ignorant about either. Shame on you. BTW, the story is about Germany, not Greece, idiot. How does my jb style reply strike ya? Sucks doesn't it? yes it does yes it does. You're the lil one in this picture aren't ya you jackbooted regressive?

I can totally relate. This is what happens the night after a drunken spree, you wake up with a mean ugly bitch clutching $200 of yours in her fist and she is sleeping on your arm and you're all like OMG!? Only in this case, it's a German waking up with a Greek woman of course.

Congrats former Jake! The magic of Christmas indeed! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0373175493/bpo01-20

OMG! Someone hand me a kleenex, I just had an (pleasant) accident....ahhhhhhhhsome. A cliff too far? Closer to home: Gent: Andrew Trzynka

Here Ben.

Damn that sucks, I didn't have him on my dead pool. Crap. Stomach cancer, aged 67. To commemorate the inventor of the devil horn salute: Vios con Dios.

Well, turns out I have to go to my nieces graduation in LaGrande for a family/reunion kind of thing. I tried to weasel out but there are times family take precedence and this is one of them. Sorry. I see that to cancel, I'll need to call the local store in Clackamas, (503) 659-1156, which I will do. There are still 8 spots available for signups as of right now if anyone is considering this for next weekend. Adam wants to know if he can bring his dog Penelope. Penelope

Thanks Dave, when I wrote that I was sort of wondering about how the next days sojourn was going to go. (went great!) Now I'm sofa king muscle sore I'm waking up at 4 am and eating Ibuprofen so it's fantastic for now. I know that what you say is true, my former business partner had his son recently hit and killed by a pickup truck when he stopped as a first responder on an accident scene. Wishing all of you who were there and heard this well too. The memory will only slightly fade with time, but fade it will. Anyone get the full story?

Probably the same thing as you except I don't attack and accuse people I don't know of things I'm imagining inside my head like you. So, what did you do when Bush and his cronies trampled the constitution almost every day? How old?

When it's time it's time, and if it's my time this is as good a way to go as any. Not making light of anything and wishing the best for us all, but especially the guy who augured in.

Nice words Stoner. Trash: you'd have more credibility if you'd stop showing up after those long walks on the beach with your boyfriend looking like a GLAZED DONUT. ps, you service guys, when we swore the oath, it was to uphold the constitution. The US shouldn't ever follow the South America-Banana Republics path IMO. It's the road to hell for sure.

My thoughts are that with Peter Metcalf and some of the old climber gang on board, it's good -samesame. He's a good guy and has a solid background in what the corp. goals are. However, so many times with larger corporations and new blood we see that he'll get kicked out/forced out/sick of the new bullshit/resign in 3-4 years and then all bets are off. See, they currently look kick assed profitable, which sucked in these new guys, as BD has been moving production to China. However, THIS year (you just read it here) when China starts getting serious about devaluing the Yuan vis a vis the buck/Chuck, the dollar/Yaun thing will reduce some of those huge profits seen that sucked in these corporate raiders. The CR's, not knowing that a Carabiner is any different than a cock ring or other commodity, will be sending nastygrams and Excel spreadsheets behind the scenes to the effect of New markets will be evaluated, new products, etc etc. Spreadsheets will say to put more $ in R and D, however, the money in r and d will be eyed by the top guys as wasted and POOF, moments after the R and D money cut then is stuffed into Kandors pocket, Metcalf looks up and sees some strange writing on the wall - grabs a bag of cash and splits. Everyone working for him, the climber types, see this strange writing on the wall - grab whats left and hit the door as well. The new guys/replacements will see you as a "profit center", and in the end find some way to alienate you big time. Sales of gear decline, while sales of clothing increase and a sale to a new victim corporation is looked at.....you end up with a company that looks like Eddie Bauer or the North Face, who are trying to bring back the "kick assed" thing they use to be, and not the weaksauce suburban thing they have become as profits in the Patagonia/Eddie Bauer/North Face "pleasedontsueme" space increase.... So in the end, you'll be getting the new "hyperwear" "fantastic" "sweat shredding" underpants that even the astronauts ill want to wear from Black Diamond, but not gear. Or much of it anyway. This is a 4-8 year timeline thing I'd suspect. It's all guessing here. OK, so yes, I've been drinking...but it's friday afternoon damnit! So I'll pitch a holier than thou message. My BD Camalots were made in the US. My Metolius 4cams, tcus, offset TCUs and Mastercam Cams were made in the US. My regular and hybrid Aliens and my Wire Bliss 4cams were made in the US. What does that tell you? Yes, I spend way too much money on gear. Bingo. That is all. Time to polish off the wine. "Real" climbers? WTF - who the hell.....

THIS IS JUST FUCKING WRONG Elsewhere, the man has said he is innocent of the "charges" as he understands them from newspaper stories and 2nd hand, but to be killed without trial, based on ....what? Some other wack job's secret witness and testimony.

An old Gramicci! You'll look old school! "Used Gramicci brand portaledge. Single wide, comes with rain fly and under slung gear hammock for another person. Price: $250 Please call: (206) 949-8733 * Location: West Seattle * it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests"

Ouch, ouch, ouch. Wow: well, that pic is of the more solid rock out there too. When you hit the loose stuff, it's absolutely horrifying. The new name thing got bogged down. How did "THE VIOLATOR" go over? Probably not rough enough. I've noticed that you guys, with all your gratuitous taunting, and your high school bullying apparently have finally chased off The Popester and Don. Other than this bolt issue, I like those guys. Don's career as an archeologist in particular he should be proud of. Don, if you're lurking: thanks for finally leaving the local boyz alone on that other bolt issue I mention above. It got sorted out without your interference just fine. A second ascent of The Salathe Highway on the Old Witch still awaits. I didn't see you stepping up and offering to climb up and pull that rap sling off and downclimb it. There's no bolts at all on that pinnacle other than the rap point at the base. I had a 7mil tag line on me with the Lil Dawg attached ready for action below. That's the little white 00s on the top left one there, and you'll have to downclimb to the xx's at the pinnacle base. Be a good idea to have that with a video camera going for the record in case it goes bad. This is a distance shot from the other side so you can see the route. In the upper pic, I'm sitting where the o is on top in the lower picture. BTW, despite it's unsoiled and virgin nature - the pinnacle on the right by the fir tree with NO XX's on top yet, the Dragons Spine, has been spoken for already. That's the reason (like someone needs a reason for more crap) that I got the new drill.

Idaho? Damn, you're going to run up Elephant Rock again I bet? That's so awesome. Tuesday. Let's touch base as it gets closer -have fun!

It's got more action than the Nodder crap in spray. Anyone doing RB laps tonight after work and need and extra belay bitch?

Climbmax had the 4.5 and #5 for $30some odd bucks! Camp makes good gear and they should do fine for you and you'll never break them. Maybe the sling after it gets old. They are thinner profile (skinnier when looked at from the side), so as Trog noted, they aren't as stable, but they are an amazing value. I'd use them all day long without a second though on the strength. Light is nice and if you have to hump a bunch of heavy bricks via a long approach into a mountain to get 1 or 2 placements you'll appreciate them all the more I'd imagine. That stuff is so heavy. It gets heavier as you age too. When I was younger it was much lighter. Damn. Who wants to be humping heavy crap around? Kyle might be an exception I think he carries his when he's exploring: I'm pretty sure it was the Camp 4.5 he had on him and found a spot on a belay mid-cliff behind a shit flake for it, it was awesome! I wish I had taken a pic. (note 10 lb pry bar and 10 lb drill with all that wyde gear below) You start looking for places to dump that stuff so you don't have to carry it up. You can get a cam with better range, but you don't notice that in the larger sizes that much. Camalot #4 66-114mm vs Camp air 4.5 77-100mm. Weight -Camp -7.16oz vs Camalot 10.19oz ...anyway, that's my thoughts. Congrats on a great deal!

Was this right enthroned in the constitution?

Climbmax carry these? Well - I'm a hell of a lot less picky...and shoes are so damn much better than they ever were that ever the trash is better than the best of 20 years ago so WTF?:-) However, the LaSportiva Focus I bought in Paris in 1997 ? and which I've gotten resoled 6 times or so, and the other ? shoe I bought at the same time has stretched so I can wear a sock now and my foot is still loose if it's a thin one, they work great...oh, Red Chili Spirits, (mine are in the middle, my sons Christmas present is the outer ones) but times being what they are, I need a new shoe. Or lose 25 lbs. Shoe it is. As far as cost, that flight to Paris was a deal at $280 bucks. With the euro/dollar change and oil increases, the TC pros don't look outrageous to me...although I did buy a pair for only $40 last time (for gym climbing) as they didn't fit my buddy Andrew.... Can you guys tell me what size would fit my 8-1/2 foot?

I know you're not talkin' smack about Barak. You must mean like other countries female leaders? Indira Gandhi, Margaret Thatcher and Golda Meir as obvious and dramatic examples. It's whats inside that counts, probably a damn good thing too. Not Lyndon Johnson Not George Washington in need of a haircut: Not Dana Carvey in drag again: