snoboy

Rain?? It's not raining here.... I guess it did sprinkle a little on Saturday though...

I don't think that marylou uses the public school system, AFAIK... so Red Herring!!!

Obviously you are not even in agreement with yourself, how can you expect to convince me otherwise???

Just when you thought it was safe to go out in the mountains again... high elevation tornadoes!!

wuss, it's been raining for what, like three days now!!! OMFG suxtobeyou. Guess what... Winter is coming... then you can whine about being sick of the rain, after, like, day 58...

COCKEYED.COM RAWKS MY WORLD

I have always felt that there are a lot of really good stories about Squamish. Like the story of the FA of Genius Loci, or stories behind the name of routes. How about the hijinks of a certain Tami Knight? Squamish is small, and was really off the radar for a lot of people until recently, but it has it's own unique history that would be really interesting to hear. Yesterday, when I read that Darryl Hatten had died, I had the feeling that a project like this has to start soon, if it is to be complete. Some of the pioneers of this area are getting older, whether old enough to pass on, or simply old enough to forget the details , I think that a lot of good stories are going to be lost in the near future. I imagine a sort of anthology of short stories. Some historical photos might be nice too. For me the fact that so many of the "famous" climbers are simply your neighbour, or the guy who is coming to trim your trees, has always been a cool aspect of the climbing community. The drawback to that, I think, is that we don't neccesarily value the stories enough, as we always feel that we will be able to hear them again and again, because they will always be here, but eventually they won't. History is cool. OK, I admit, this is a pretty selfish post, as I have no intention (time, talent, whatever) of doing anything about it, but would love to know if anyone has thought of doing this, or has maybe even started. I will buy it if someone steps up to the plate though...

bolts

joe is a spambot. you will find this identical post on about 50 other forums today.

PC trollers are so 1990.

I helped fern pay for that guide, and I must say it was one of the most worthwhile things I have ever spent money on in my whole climbing "career"... Yeah, I know you are not my mom, SB, she was way hardcore compared to all of you. Certainly more core than me.

I think I told you this one already, SnowByrd, but here is a quote from my mom about iceclimbing (more or less.) "It was the coldest, wettest, most boring thing I have ever done in the mountains."

Don't you guys even read??? This thread is about the use of Daisy Chains vs. Camalots. WTF!!11!1!1 Loosers. I still don't see why you think that GU is better than a well placed La Sportiva Mythos when you are hiking into the 5th pitch of the Grand Wall. Pansies. Bet your daddy dodged the draft, didn't he.

Well, what the f$%^ do you know, I've been climbering for 40 years, and I have done all the courses from the Mounties as well as being a WFR, blah blah blah. I also know my ass from my elbow.

BG - it really is better, try it sometime. The biggest advantage is when you actually lock up the backup knot, it is way easier to get it unlocked and continue with you rappel.

I fell once, and went immediatly into self arrest, landed on the shaft of my axe, and broke/cracked a rib. Ow. Dru, in my "WFR" course, OEC actually, our best sucking scenario was dude falls on stick while doing stream restoration work... has double(!) wound, one in the back, and one in the front... as long as he is laying down, his rain gear seals the back one. Patch up the obvious one, but as soon as you pick him up to evacuate - he can't breath again!

Cartoons that seem applicable to cc.com should be posted in this thread... LOL Here's one to start. Seems particularly relevant to the politico threads.

I have not tried this out yet, but I trust the person who has worked it out. My friend is a heli ski guide, and they carry an emergency crevasse rescue set up that uses 5.5mm Spectra cord. Finding something to grip on that, and still be strong enough to yard on is a challenge. He finally settled on using the 1/2 tubular webbing. Not the smooth climbspec stuff, but the rougher stuff that aid climbers often use as tie-offs. I can't remember the knot used though. I think it was a klemheist.

Almost 4 pages on the very subject of using a belay loop versus not. I would love to see numbers backing up your claim that "the slop in the system produced by the belay loop, along with 'gate up and in' biener orientation, is one of the primary problems associated with these kinds of accidents in both rappelling and belaying." Seems there might be a bit of money to made from a class action lawsuit if this is really the case.

We've been through this a million times before, and I really don't want to start it again, especially in the newbies thread, but... The belay loop is there for a reason, and I think that newbies should potentially ignore those who are suggesting that it not be used. RTFM, and get yourself a good mentor, that's all.

Close CBS, close...

I would read this as they went N-S, ie they did end up in the same place... also I don't think that they would have been able to see the east side ledges from the col if they had headed N.

That all you found in your pack??

Doesn't say much for your arguments if that is "more direct and specific..."