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Everything posted by skykilo
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That was us on both counts. I can't really take credit for the tracks, I think they've been there for more than a month, but no sweat reinforcing them. Beautiful night to camp up high, eh?
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The second link didn't work, but you guys should be smart enough to figure it out if you want it...
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There seems to be a running commentary here about how people should climb the Kennedy Glacier, so I thought I'd give it a go... We left White Chuck TH 8:37 Saturday morning. We carried our overnight gear and makeup kits to 7,000 feet on Kennedy Peak. Then we continued to climb Frostbite Ridge and scope Kennedy Glacier. The glacier looked doable and interesting. Frostbite Ridge had a nice enough bootpack that we went all the way to the true summit without using the 'poons. We summited a little after seven in the evening. We got back to the skis at ~9,000 feet as the sun went down, just in time for the corn to go crusty. We left camp Sunday morning at about 9:00. The crux of the route may be getting onto the Kennedy Glacier from the Vista Glacier. Kennedy Glacier has HUGE cracks, some of those things had to be at maximum depth. The scenery is spectacular. Up high, Jeff didn't want to climb the Beckey route, so we went further right. The path through the cracks to end-run the 'schrund was circuitous at best, and in the end passing the 'schrund required a couple steps up off a snow bridge on nearly vertical ice. Nice climb. I had wanted to ski the Kennedy, but Jeff was going to downclimb Frostbite. I probably would have skied the Beckey route, but there was blue ice shining through in spots above it, and I didn't know if the same would show up in the middle of the steep portion next to the rock below. It was so warm I got buck naked below the rabbit ears and spent fifteen minutes just erasing tan lines. There was some perfect fifty degree corn at the top of Frostbite Ridge. Yum yum. We got back to the trail head at 8:15, safely below the 36 hr mark. Route photos: http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/Kennedy/Kennedy.html Vid of killer steep corn: http://staff.washington.edu/jam03/Glacier%20Peak%207-26,27-03/MVI_0461.avi Enjoy
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I'm going to go hang out on some glaciers. While I'm there,
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I've had nothing but good experiences with Texas strippers. They definitely all involved biguns and hangovers, too. Thanks for bringing back the memories.
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What you got against Goodnight Moon? That's a classic. Goodnight Post
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That's the approach I used in May, before joining the normal Frostbite Ridge path at the saddle between Kennedy Glacier and Vista Glacier. Get on the glacier low. As you go higher, getting down to the glacier becomes a daunting task on miserable scree slope. Leave the trail before it heads around the ridge, and then cut directly to Kennedy Glacier.
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Josh- The skiing really is great. Nice slush the whole way, with no runnels or suncups. Quite a treat for July. John- We were starting right about as you left. I think in retrospect I'da left the crampons, too. I think I've said that about every slog I've done in the last month. Happy birthday! Now everybody else, quit going to Glacier Peak! It's a super long hike, the bugs are hell, and the mountain sucks! I just go there for Kennedy Hot Springs. Love those hot springs!
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What day did you climb? Our climb began in light mist Saturday, and I was hoping for some July pow pow, but... the damn weather improved, and we were kissed by the sun. Glad to hear snow actually fell up there. Corey and I skied the summit directly to the south through a chute just west of Disappointment Peak, and did some yo-yo on the Sitkum Glacier. Glad others also enjoyed themselves! Sky
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I agree about those chumps taking boats up Ross Lake. It's just not respectable at all.
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It's summer on the glaciers, too! Maybe go live at the bottom of a crevasse, it'd be cold there.
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Yeah, I've never seen anyone else in several trips to the BP Cleaver, which makes the route worthwhile in and of itself.
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Actually, you start damn near half way up Mt Hood by just driving to the Timberline parking lot. Taking the lift, you start at (8,500/11,200)*100=76% of the way up the mountain. Ahem... I will now nominate myself as the authority on the subject, and declare that you gotta climb half the mountain. But if you had a good time, that's all that matters!
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He must have assumed you were tourists after making it up the Boulder Glacier, since no good climbers live in Washington.
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Is it still there, or did they back that ass up?
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Good rock climbers don't live in Washington...
skykilo replied to offwidthclimber's topic in Climber's Board
While we're berating Celine Dion and Brian Adams, don't let Avril Lavigne (of sk8r boi fame) pass unscathed. These three are truly threats to our security. -
What? She couldn't accept the vision her burning desire had lead her to fantasize, and she tried to put him to the stake? It's also scary to think that one could be taken to court for such things, I like to go commando now and then...
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Walking off a big volcano in July, August, or September with ski gear draws some really stupid questions. In full view of Mt Baker, for instance, one asks, "Is there skiing up there?" It's really not worth responding.
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Yeah, where's the pic? Speaking of nekkid chicks in the woods, has anyone else ever had any disturbing experiences at Baker Hot Springs?
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Smiley faces were so innocent before the internet. Now that they have a good anonymous source of porn, though...
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Mt. Adams North Ridge - best place to camp?
skykilo replied to techboy's topic in Southern WA Cascades
OK- I don't know about Stormy Monday, but North Ridge afforded a good look at some stuff that screamed "Spring climb!" on Lava Headwall. But North Ridge could be fun with tennis shoes and a light pack. -
Mt. Adams North Ridge - best place to camp?
skykilo replied to techboy's topic in Southern WA Cascades
I don't think anyone in their right mind would want to climb Lava Headwall or Stormy Monday right now. They're melted out to some nice 50 degree scree. Adams Glacier was OK the weekend before last, but it looked like it would be seeing some crevasse navigation problems quite soon. -
Mt. Adams North Ridge - best place to camp?
skykilo replied to techboy's topic in Southern WA Cascades
The 7,500 ft. lake above high camp has nice sites, and it's right at the base of the north ridge. You should be able to find it without GPS, it's the big blue spot on the topo. -
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Hey, I think we saw you climb off the Adams Glacier right before we skied it. Did you finish just after the solo ranger?
