skykilo

The slope up out of the summit crater wasn't really soft, it was still icy. We just used small features, etc. It's all good, it's best to climb in your comfort zone, whichever way you prefer, and most importantly without injury. On another note, why does everyone carry over on Frostbite Ridge? It's not very hard to descend. Personally, I like to be able to climb light. (Must be why I always carry skis?)

I read that. It sounded like he was way out of balance. Now he climbs much less frequently, with his kids and what not. I didn't think it was a knock on climbers, but maybe a call to people who shun other responsibilities. Party like a rock star, OR have a family, but not both?

lummox-you gotta boat? I'm down to go water skiing.

I would like to respectfully ask everyone to keep their third tools away from me, thank you very much. Ha ha.

See the video linked in this thread for what I mean by 'killer corn': http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB2&Number=217916&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I just skied killer corn on Kennedy and Vista Glaciers on Glacier Peak last weekend, neither of which had much sun cupping. It's a lot of work to get there, though. Mt Baker and Mt Shuksan are good late season bets, too.

Man, I can't wait to check out the Chilliwacks!

That was us on both counts. I can't really take credit for the tracks, I think they've been there for more than a month, but no sweat reinforcing them. Beautiful night to camp up high, eh?

The second link didn't work, but you guys should be smart enough to figure it out if you want it...

There seems to be a running commentary here about how people should climb the Kennedy Glacier, so I thought I'd give it a go... We left White Chuck TH 8:37 Saturday morning. We carried our overnight gear and makeup kits to 7,000 feet on Kennedy Peak. Then we continued to climb Frostbite Ridge and scope Kennedy Glacier. The glacier looked doable and interesting. Frostbite Ridge had a nice enough bootpack that we went all the way to the true summit without using the 'poons. We summited a little after seven in the evening. We got back to the skis at ~9,000 feet as the sun went down, just in time for the corn to go crusty. We left camp Sunday morning at about 9:00. The crux of the route may be getting onto the Kennedy Glacier from the Vista Glacier. Kennedy Glacier has HUGE cracks, some of those things had to be at maximum depth. The scenery is spectacular. Up high, Jeff didn't want to climb the Beckey route, so we went further right. The path through the cracks to end-run the 'schrund was circuitous at best, and in the end passing the 'schrund required a couple steps up off a snow bridge on nearly vertical ice. Nice climb. I had wanted to ski the Kennedy, but Jeff was going to downclimb Frostbite. I probably would have skied the Beckey route, but there was blue ice shining through in spots above it, and I didn't know if the same would show up in the middle of the steep portion next to the rock below. It was so warm I got buck naked below the rabbit ears and spent fifteen minutes just erasing tan lines. There was some perfect fifty degree corn at the top of Frostbite Ridge. Yum yum. We got back to the trail head at 8:15, safely below the 36 hr mark. Route photos: http://staff.washington.edu/skykilo/Kennedy/Kennedy.html Vid of killer steep corn: http://staff.washington.edu/jam03/Glacier%20Peak%207-26,27-03/MVI_0461.avi Enjoy

I'm going to go hang out on some glaciers. While I'm there,

I've had nothing but good experiences with Texas strippers. They definitely all involved biguns and hangovers, too. Thanks for bringing back the memories.

What you got against Goodnight Moon? That's a classic. Goodnight Post

That's the approach I used in May, before joining the normal Frostbite Ridge path at the saddle between Kennedy Glacier and Vista Glacier. Get on the glacier low. As you go higher, getting down to the glacier becomes a daunting task on miserable scree slope. Leave the trail before it heads around the ridge, and then cut directly to Kennedy Glacier.

Josh- The skiing really is great. Nice slush the whole way, with no runnels or suncups. Quite a treat for July. John- We were starting right about as you left. I think in retrospect I'da left the crampons, too. I think I've said that about every slog I've done in the last month. Happy birthday! Now everybody else, quit going to Glacier Peak! It's a super long hike, the bugs are hell, and the mountain sucks! I just go there for Kennedy Hot Springs. Love those hot springs!

What day did you climb? Our climb began in light mist Saturday, and I was hoping for some July pow pow, but... the damn weather improved, and we were kissed by the sun. Glad to hear snow actually fell up there. Corey and I skied the summit directly to the south through a chute just west of Disappointment Peak, and did some yo-yo on the Sitkum Glacier. Glad others also enjoyed themselves! Sky

I agree about those chumps taking boats up Ross Lake. It's just not respectable at all.

It's summer on the glaciers, too! Maybe go live at the bottom of a crevasse, it'd be cold there.

Yeah, I've never seen anyone else in several trips to the BP Cleaver, which makes the route worthwhile in and of itself.

Actually, you start damn near half way up Mt Hood by just driving to the Timberline parking lot. Taking the lift, you start at (8,500/11,200)*100=76% of the way up the mountain. Ahem... I will now nominate myself as the authority on the subject, and declare that you gotta climb half the mountain. But if you had a good time, that's all that matters!

He must have assumed you were tourists after making it up the Boulder Glacier, since no good climbers live in Washington.

Is it still there, or did they back that ass up?

While we're berating Celine Dion and Brian Adams, don't let Avril Lavigne (of sk8r boi fame) pass unscathed. These three are truly threats to our security.

What? She couldn't accept the vision her burning desire had lead her to fantasize, and she tried to put him to the stake? It's also scary to think that one could be taken to court for such things, I like to go commando now and then...

Walking off a big volcano in July, August, or September with ski gear draws some really stupid questions. In full view of Mt Baker, for instance, one asks, "Is there skiing up there?" It's really not worth responding.