Goat_Boy

Norman--hard to disagree. I think the original question got lost, though. Olympus in a day? The few times you and I have gone out we've never just poked along--always pushed for the higher camp as I recall. I climb lighter and faster now than I did then, but my answer would still be no to Olympus in a day. Fast work with a summit bivy? Yes. Maybe 30-35 hours. But Trail running to tag the summit and stay under 24 hours? Not appealing. Too much pain for this old man. And the mountain is worth taking in a little more deeply. Sometimes you can miss alot when you're focused on time. I'm with you, covering more ground adds to any experience. But in my book speed goals are for competitions and training. Having done Olympus from both sides, I can tell you that anyone doing this in a day is going to be asking that eternal question, "why the hell am I doing this again?" I do greatly admire anyone who can pull that off and get his ass to work the next day, though. Berg hiel!

quote: One of my goals is to climb Olympus while doing the entire Bailey Range traverse. Maybe about 8 days or so? I haven't researched it too closely yet, but I think that would be a real epic Payaso--that's one of the best trips in ONP. We did it about 6 years ago--up the Soleduc and out the Hoh. Queets Basin is as pretty a place as there is, and we found interesting plane wreckage on the terminal moraine of the Humes (park service could not identify). Did it in a leisurely week, bagging Pulitzer and the 3 Olympus summits. Still time this year.

I once ran into a guy carrying skis across his pack. When I asked him why he wasn't going up on his skins, he said the skis would catch a crevasse fall. It didn't occur to him that he could ski up as securely as he could ski down--although he may have been simply scouting the descent route. Either way, I think I'd always prefer to be on the skis rather than carrying them.

Not sure why this is appealing unless you're training for the Ecochallenge. Though I can see why you'd want to reduce that approach to a midnight blur. But if I see any bikes hidden on the Hoh, I will seriously monkey wrench them. The better trip would be to carry light to the summit in a day, bivy on Five Fingers and enjoy the view, then out the next day in under 30 hours.

Anyone been up Victory Ridge or any of the eastern ridge routes with access to the Castle? I'm looking for any information out there, from access to conditions to recommendations. We're considering this as an August objective.

One day from Elk Lake, maybe. Dude, have some fun. Go in via Dodwell-Rixon and the Humes Glacier and bag the triple crown.

Lambone--I think many would have made a similar decision to spend the night. Tired team, calm weather, an I-tent, an easy descent route, the prospect of a spectacular sunset/sunrise. Who out there hasn't been seduced by great summer weather only to slapped silly just when you let your guard down? That's probably the simplest lesson for a high bivy in the Cascades: be prepared for the worst because you can't outrun hypothermia. Glad you're okay. You guys used good judgement by staying put. I understand how you feel. I took a friend up the Kautz headwall a several years ago and we spent an unplanned extra night in the crater. Just so happens they were airlifting bodies off the Emmons that day and after a cell phone miscommunication, my partner's parents assumed the worst and tried to initiate a search. It was a terrible feeling to meet the Ranger below Muir asking if we were "so and so." Our hearts sank knowing that family was worried, waiting for us in the parking lot and that NPS was on the mountain looking for us. I met Gauthier and a woman a week later on the Brothers, and he told me he was patroling the Kautz, retracing our route. And that was only one full day late. Welcome to the club. Did you have analog roaming on your cell phone? That frequently pulls a better connection.

Anyone know what route they were on?

Their "experience" might have told them to stay put rather than walk off onto the Scimitar in a white-out and high winds. The media usually gets it wrong at first report. Let's wait and see. Cell phone debate, though...

Is this a typical year? They're both pretty much walk ups with long approaches. On Glacier, you could probably expect some snow above Boulder Basin, then rock & pumice up Sitkum ridge to the ice cap. It's a trail, basically. Olympus has some glacier travel and a short summit block, so you'll want to bring a rope and know how to use it. It's quicker to rapp off the tower than down climb. If your party doesn't mind hauling packs up, a nice bivy can be had on Five Fingers ridge, a little rocky plateau just below the summit. It definately beats the buggy camp below the morraine and the evening views are exceptional. There is plenty of room for several people. It'll definately make your trip more memorable. Expect open crevasses and a moat or two, but I'm sure there is a cattle path accross the Blue, up the snow dome, and on up to the top. Weather is the biggest hazard on the standard routes. Good luck and have fun.

3rd Party speculation, even from experienced climbers, seems frequently useless. Facts become fairly subjective in desperate circumstances. We all “think” we would have stayed put near Liberty Cap, or gone for the steam caves at the summit, but it’s impossible to fully understand any situation until you’re in those conditions, under that strain, dealing with your partner’s condition and mental state. You rarely hear criticism from rescue professionals. Accidents in NA is an interesting read because is takes a pretty dispassionate look at situations and tries to break them down objectively without criticizing the decision making. Unless, of course, inexperience and eagerness tip the scales of natural selection against the poor sod. Then fire away.

Used Deet on the Bailey Range Traverse and had to cut the watch from my wrist after the trip--the band had completely fused together. After that I got the message. There's a product from Australia (I think) called "Green Ban for Humans." Pretty much like Naturapel, but it's very effective for short periods. Used it in notorious bug country, Royal Basin and S. Fork Hoh (Valhallas), and was impressed. Altitude seems to be the best repellent though.

Probably pretty melted out with snow patches this time of year. My dad started taking me up there when I was about 8. Scrambling the chute, even when completely dry, was pretty fun for a kid. It was my first summit and I've gone back every year since--mostly to shake off rust in late winter/early spring--there are some fun variations when the snow is harder. Have a good time, chute or basin trail.

Not lately, but it's a fun scramble. The standard route out of Royal Basin, contrary to the guidebook (I think), is a rising traverse over scree and class 4 (low) to the low notch in the ridge connecting with the needles. You have several options, so just follow the path of least resistance. From the ridge, drop 100 feet onto snow and ascend the short, steep (40 degrees)slope to the shoulder between a small gendarme and the summit. Short walk up from there. Big, broad summit area with great views of Mystery, Gunsight Pass, etc. If you're in the area, a hike up to Surprise Basin puts you into really interesting country among the good rock routes and high spires.

Completed Fuhrer Finger on the 16th in unusually warm weather. 48-degree overnight temp at 9200. 12:30 am start found the route stable with good cramponing. Unless temps really drop, I'd advise against trying the thumb, as it receives steady afternoon rockfall and doesn't allow much room to maneuver. The finger was in excellent shape all the way to the Kautz saddle. Very straightforward, but be sure to stay left of the first ramp onto the Nisqually or you will have to backtrack to regain the route--large crevasses prevent rejoining it higher unless you commit to the glacier there. Used occasional running belays past exposed sections, mostly due to condition of partner suffering from a little AMS. Descended the Kautz and found the upper chute full of alternately crappy plate or rock hard ice. We came down the center, but better climbing exists in the more pinnacled east side of the chute. Lowered first to a difficult picket pound-in, then to the snow apron where the second was top-roped from an ice bollard. The traverse to Hazard at the top of the first pitch is the best I've seen it, but has several overhanging blocks that look a little tenuous. With all the recent calving activity and the high temps, we exited lower. Lines fixed with 3 pickets on the lower pitch made for a quick descent to the bottom of the chute, where irregular ice gave way to knee-deep snow. Large horizontal fissures are forming on the lower chute. The 5.5 exit crack below Hazard is dangling 2 green ropes from rotting slings and is very easy. Be careful not to snag your line hauling as it get a little sharp in there. Curious why more people don't use this since it's so much quicker and safer than running up the exposed gully to camp. Late afternoon rock and ice fall swept 3/4 of the ascent route. This is a very scenic tour, and we saw no one on this route the entire day, up or down. Note to permit complainers bashing the NPS. If you’re going to hump it up a tourist route, expect to get in line. Managing the hordes at Muir or Shurman seems like a no-win job and secondary to the primary responsibility of the Rangers. The turnstile methods should clue you in to the need for a little extra prep and research. Expecting to just walk up and park your tent in a smelly, noisy, overcrowded snow camp without a little headache is unreasonable. The NPS tries hard to manage those camps, but the climbing pressure there is ridiculous. When I consider some of the pinheads I’ve met on Rainier, I don’t blame them for showing a little wear from time to time.