matt_warfield

quote: "It's like a giant belly of a whale, and you're just huggin' it, slappin' it ... holds aren't much better, either." -- Name that sprayer and the route he's spraying about! "This cave is SO steep; it's FULLY RAINING right now, and this cave is PERFECTLY dry." -- Again, name that sprayer! Quote 1 correctly already identified as Dan Osman. Quote 2 is Kurt Smith. The Osman segment in the video is one of my favorites from the series, where he uses his middle finger to draw through the air the overhanging outline of the route, ending up squarely flipping off the camera

quote: If you don’t know, from the last bolt to the anchors on full HC is around 20 feet on 5.11- terrain and a fall would be about a huge 40 footer. Was at Smith in October and witnessed a fall on HC from right at the top anchor- the guy ended up below the lower anchors! Later, I found out that the fall was "for fun" as the climber was well in control.

While rappelling Field's chimney on the Diagonal (Long's Peak, CO) in search of a butt pack launched off the top of the Diamond with car keys, wallet, etc., one rappel anchor was a solid but cone-shaped spike that was about 1 foot above the base of an otherwise anchorless ledge. The rappel was achieved by basically rolling off the ledge, since any upward force would slip the sling off the spike. Then there was the approaching lightning storm.....

Yeah, good point about the crowds. Hit Super Slab during the week and save the less popular routes (i.e. long approach or harder) for the weekend.

Oh, yeah, and if 5.6 is fun for you- add Super Slab to your list. It's great as well.

"Mr. Washington goes to Smith" Really good one there. Don't pass up some sweet single pitch trad stuff too: Lion's Jaw: 5.8 Moonshine Dihedral: 5.9 Karate Crack: 5.10a Delerium Tremens: 5.10- Can't join you but sounds like fun. Be sure to visit the breweries in Bend because the nights are long in November. Cheers and have fun.

quote: Ah HA! So you DID spank her! I think the only spanking and other sexual activity allowed in those parts is between family members.

quote: They say that driving is more dangerous than climbing!!! Apparently, parking is even more dangerous than driving! Perhaps it's WHERE you drive and park that's important in this case! Nod off in WA, wake up in Appalachia.....

I always knew ice climbing was dangerous! Seriously, glad you two were unharmed. I always wondered about the locals in them there parts!

Supercrack has actually had several ascents since the first, apparently unbeknownst to Smoot at the time of his guidebook publishing. However, none at night, I'm sure.

quote: And his calves never pumped out cause he didnt have calves. Come to think of it, I have seen him on video doing some hard stemming. No calf burn there. And he can't easily twist and contort his feet in hand cracks or off width.

quote: Herr before or after leglessness? I meant I wondered why he didn't do it. I don't think he has. I think most of his hard ascents were faces and thin cracks where his prosthetics work best.

Some wannabees named Yoder and Tim Wilson and at least one other person too. I always wondered why Croft and Skinner never got on it when they were prowling around 11worth. Oh and Herr.

The chest-beater's way is to go Snow to 8-mile (more vertical). But running it either way is definitely a superior achievement! [ 10-09-2002, 12:51 PM: Message edited by: matt warfield ]

Nada Lk is a little more than 5 mi. from the trailhead and maybe 3500 ft. of elevation gain; you should be able to dayhike to it at a leisurely pace in 2.5 hrs. or less. You should consider stretching the hike to Snow Lakes, which is another 1.5 miles and maybe 1,000 more ft. of vertical. Have fun.

I believe that Bill Robins' routes will be documented in the next Vantage guide and that Yoder has most, if not all, of the route info on the web site.

Well, I'll bet that Dean Potter and Tim O'Neill are already plotting a climb to recapture the record! Amazing athletes and planners all!

I've been to Lost World and Alpinia and concur with PP about the quality of the routes. Don't worry about bolt count or ratings. Go have fun. Valley View West and other crags previously discussed are not on the web site. On my last visit to Bob's last weekend, somebody had an advance copy of the new Exit 38 guide, which apparently will be out imminently and looked fat (excludes Little Si). Most people up there right now are still oblivious to the new crags- many people at Peannacle and nobody at Lost World on Sunday. Have fun and on!

I have gotten great recommendations on Pugh and haven't done it but plan to do it still this year. It's a pretty big hike with lots of elevation and some scrambling near the end with good views. Go do it.

I'm going to help Andy out on the trailwork Saturday and stay for the party. Hope some other folks do too. Frenchman Coulee really needs the Access Fund. One portapotty just doesn't cut it when shared with 200 concert goers! Come on out- build trail and then

quote: don't forget your shrooms and headlamp for the bat tunnel!!! Please advise! Smith's show?!? Something else?

quote: better stay safe and sane and go to the coulee. and a good time to start would be this weekend, with the access fund's volunteer trail work and Kurt Smith's Kickin' Access party. See Andy Fitz's posts earlier this week. He still needs volunteers and it's lookin' like a good time!

For those that don't know, Kurt started out as a staunch ground up trad climber before getting into sport climbing. And Vantage has lots of nice cracks with nary a bolt for those inclined.

Kurt's going to be in Vantage this Saturday and will be doing his show and spinning music in the parking lot. Definitely a different venue from the pub but there is also going to be a barbecue and so if the stars are out it should be fun. Kurt definitely works his ass off for Access Fund and should be given credit for that.

Nice work: 1-day and up the gendarme no less. Maybe you're ready for Croft style next!