matt_warfield

Your time CTC is more humbling to others I would think, especially with the crowds, overall difficulty/scope, and general alpine shenanigans. Humbling is when a one day trip turns into 2-3 days! Thanks for the TR. Kudos to you and to Steph, where experience, thorough documentation and willingness to share is much appreciated.

I never thought this TR would have any readers with familiarity of the route. Good to hear your stories. A few notable climbers wandered the quarry during eastern pursuits in the early days including Henry Barber. I am sure Eric Horst also pulled down there. The murder is not surprising as more partiers and swimmers flock to the quarry than climbers.

The above points are good. But consider that anything with steep snow, glaciers, or scrambling requires very good judgment for the safety of any without climbing experience and gear. I would take a cautious approach for goals. Find a summit with an alpine feel without getting over anybody's head. With a group you need to plan for the lesser fit and adventurous persons and not the rest. Good luck, have fun.

I grew up on Mill Creek near Mt. Cowen and the peak was the subject of family lore growing up in an adventurous family of mostly nonclimbers. My early years included several trips to Cowen to recon the peak and route (before the days of any guidebook or internet info) followed by a couple years where failed attempts were mostly due to routefinding and what I call alpineitis but is mostly lack of determination and courage for the final reaches of 3rd/4th class scrambling on the standard route. I finally broke through to summit with my early climbing gear and experience and then made several other trips which sometimes including taking nonclimbers up. Some of these trips: - a one day trip with my girlfriend which was a real buzzkiller for our budding relationship (hint- death marches with climbing is not a good idea for a date trip). It is about 20 miles RT to summit with 5000 ft. elevation change. I am currently not married due to being a slow learner. - a one day trip with horse assist to Elbow Lake, saving 16 miles of trail work - several trips derailed by lightning storms before I learned what an alpine start meant and why it was important in the stormy Rockies - one trip where I stroked my ego taking nonclimbers up the only technical pitch on the standard route near the top using a rope and gear, only to find my nonclimbing sister already on top, getting there by finding a hole 30 ft. below the summit to get to the other side and easier terrain. - one trip dampened by a rain storm and leaky tent prompting me to quit buying crap and start buying quality outdoor gear. - one trip to Elbow Lake in winter on skis but with no climbing - recent day hike to Elbow Lake to meditate and recall all of the above, but with no summit The peak is unique in this area of the Absarokas, in that it has a lot of rock and alpine feel and is no gimme even for experienced scramblers. The summit is precious, small and exposed with tremendous views in all directions and easily seen from Paradise Valley as a foreboding mountain where the easier ascent route is hidden from view and only known by "experts" who know the secret way up the other side. But it is a good ego lifter to see the impressive peak from the road and casually mention to the uninformed that you have been on top! Thanks for the blast from the past!

I watched them climb together about 8 yrs. ago at World Wall. Drew was more interested in screwing around than climbing. Things have changed. His dad's crux yell probably hasn't changed, just maybe the grade.

For those familiar with cc.comer RuMR, Rock and Ice online has a report of Drew Ruana, age 16, of Redmond WA redpointing 5.14d in France. Next stop 5.15a and the rest of high school!

There was a thread a few years ago about 1-day Enchantments stuff, including Peter Croft's 1-day solo linking of all the main peaks going in 8-mile (starting from the Icicle Road due to 8 mile closure) and out Snow Creek. Quite inspiring. Leor's trips made a person tired just reading about them. In this day with many boulders and sport crags near the road and sleeping in is common followed by a grande latte, there is a little piece of heaven for those with big fitness and small packs that go big and go home in the same day. Remember it doesn't have to be fun to be fun!

Ah the joys of a big day trip. We used to get some TRs from off_the_hook and a few others for those who aspire to such things. There are some discussions of 1-day efforts in the Enchantments a few years back. I did a couple reports from trips to Colorado but sadly some years have passed and my trips have gotten shorter as my age gets longer. Many usual suspects in the high Sierra, Colorado, and S. Cascades like the Enchantments lack the brutish route finding, river crossing, and bushwhacking offered up in the N. Cascades. Nice job and fun reading!

while debbie does dallas, snapchat does everest. saw that film, kind of a blast but I agree makes old school reporting kind of.....old school.

There is a ripple in the universe when no trip report from ivan for a while. I can't believe you drove by Boulder heading for the Tower. A lifetime of climbing passed by for a tower in the middle of nowhere like it was an apparition of some sci fi movie. Now the Winds I understand. And dood, the Tower "golden granite"??? Egads the Yosemite and Wind River rock gods are turning over in their graves. It's phonolite porphyry, ends up in columns kind of like basalt does. Glad no live animals were hurt on the trip, just a few tobacco plants and grape vines doing their duty. Always more entertaining than seeing what the Kardashians did today. And I learn a few new words with every TR!

Think of the corridor hikes as conditioning and don't worry so much about aesthetics. Conditioning is the cornerstone of many high peak aspirations. Many a training regimen includes Mt. Si or the like with a pack on- its close and has sufficient mileage and vertical to get the legs and cardio in shape. Branching out north and east adds a little more car time but expands horizons a lot. Hiking books have lots of ideas and go on the shelf right next to the scramble one. I think you will learn a lot and save time from a course about general mountaineering and you can also find out about a whole bunch of suitable goals from instructors and participants. Have fun!

Kind of like that one above gendarme on N. Ridge Stuart a few years back.

Gatekeeper pitch!? That pitch is great! Even wearing my pack and trailing my partners bag off my haul loop. Then again my mother always told me I was special. Nobody said gatekeeper doesn't mean great. I will bet your partner also thinks you are special for taking his stuff and yours on lead. True hard man. When first interested in that route years ago, I couldn't find much info on it. Just rumors about an offwidth.....

All the characteristics of a classic Cascades trip: lots of miles, lots of elevation gain, lots of bushwhacking, lots of route finding, lots of uncertain weather, lots of water, lots of views, and lots of pictures. Thanks lots!

Nice TR for a fine route which would probably be more popular if not for the off-width gatekeeper pitch. Midnight is the alpine climber's happy hour for long one day efforts. And a fine way to circumvent the permit system for fit people with freedom flowing in their veins.

Deal With It Ranger, Index, 5.11a/b, FA Jon Nelson

Over 7000 views per foot of climb. Some fun historical anecdotes make it more fun including Leclerc before he outgrew cc.com.

A recent comment mentioned Sahale Arm approach avoids the normal trail, maybe cleaning it up a little bit from what you did and of course knowing where you are. But you snatched victory from the jaws of defeat- a worthy attribute for an alpine climber. But bushwhacking, permit scramble, and stream crossings are other attributes to be "enjoyed".

Great TR and nice photos. Your description of the routes including overlays is nice. Despite being a 50 crowded climb, some folks get a little confused on the direct start N. Ridge and above the gendarme. Tagging Sherpa and your descent is a nice add on. As you know, there is no easy button for a round trip on Stuart from either side.

Consider Skaha (Penticton BC) to keep the Canadian stoke going. Lots of cragging with varied touristy amenities for good marital vibes. Check weather as can be hot in summer.

Thanks for the TR of a great route on a big mountain where approaches/descents often take on a life of their own. I did it in a big snow year early in July years ago and the slab below the Gendarme was completely covered with snow. We were the first ones up that year as well. I wholeheartedly agree with Gendarme preference. While harder and more exposed than the rest of the ridge, it is great climbing. The gully is crappy climbing and conditions are variable and certain to be challenging in early season. Not the way to finish up such a fine route.

PM olyclimber.

A little more info. Cascadian is a common descent route for Stuart's technical climbs which is how most on this site know it. It is less commonly ascended. It is quite unappealing in summer due to endless scree. Earlier is better as there is snow cover. Great summit but much effort and time required.

Lightweight approach shoes. Add the small weight of rock shoes for the highly recommended gendarme direct finish to NR. You are there for a big experience not to save a few ounces.

I just hope Dems candidates hits 2 before GOP hits 20. Just for entertainment. Any problem with politics can always be solved by forming a committee to create a committee that will pass a resolution. All problems solved. Just takes a few years.