RuMR
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Posts posted by RuMR
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in birkenstocks, right??
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maybe not so funny in view of the latest news regarding the acadamy...
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kitten said:gapertimmy said:
Have you ever walked in on someone?
A buddy of mine that went to the airforce acadamy told me a story about his roomate and what happened to him...Apparantly the guy was a squad leader and one of his female underclass cadets came to talk to him about some demerits she'd gotten for something or other and he was in the midst of "doin' his thing"...Of course she runs off down the hall...
His response: He runs out into the hall sans drawers and pants and says "Hey, come back here...i was just thinking about you!!!"
Still crax me up to this day...
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Pain sux... and you only get more of it when you age...
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Fence_Sitter said:RuMR said:Dr_Flash_Amazing said:pope said:
BFD say:
- 10-year-old Adam Ondra onsights .13b
Anything a 10-year-old boy can do can't possibly be remarkable. Just goes to show you that sport climbing is kinderspiel.
Frank Zappa was a musician of some renown, viewed by some as a great composer, and was fairly popular. At age ten, Beethoven, a fairly well-known composer himself, was tearing shit up on the piano. Clearly, anything a ten-year-old lad can accomplish is unremarkable, and thus we can rest assured that composing music is kinderspiel.
Buenas noches, Poop; and bone swah to Dwayno as well.
OMFG!!! THAT IS FUNNY SHIT!!!!!!!!!
Pope...i got a buddy who is an old fart at 16 THAT WILL JUST KICK YOUR ASS PLAIN AND SIMPLE on bouldering...i'll make no claims regarding crack climbing, but if you want to distill down to a couple of moves, you and dwayner won't even hang the first set of holds...and he was climbing almost as hard at 12 and 13 as he is now...go ahead and slam me for saying bouldering only, but if he decided to concentrate in the other realms you'll be blown away there as well...
i disagree...there are oodles of freakoid kiddies running aboud climbing hard at sport and bouldering...there is a reason for that...they weigh 90 lbs! i have never seen a kid climb higher than 12 cracks...
This kid's 150lbs... and that's what they said about sharma and he's a tank now...
also, Jason Campbell was climbing 5.12 cracks as a youngster in the valley as well as tom herbert...additionally, you don't see many 5.13 crack ascents in general, now do you???
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Route name please?
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trask said:
That's not even funny morons. You guys hurt my feelings.
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pope said:RuMR said:Dr_Flash_Amazing said:pope said:
BFD say:
- 10-year-old Adam Ondra onsights .13b
Anything a 10-year-old boy can do can't possibly be remarkable. Just goes to show you that sport climbing is kinderspiel.
Frank Zappa was a musician of some renown, viewed by some as a great composer, and was fairly popular. At age ten, Beethoven, a fairly well-known composer himself, was tearing shit up on the piano. Clearly, anything a ten-year-old lad can accomplish is unremarkable, and thus we can rest assured that composing music is kinderspiel.
Buenas noches, Poop; and bone swah to Dwayno as well.
OMFG!!! THAT IS FUNNY SHIT!!!!!!!!!
Pope...i got a buddy who is an old fart at 16 THAT WILL JUST KICK YOUR ASS PLAIN AND SIMPLE on bouldering...i'll make no claims regarding crack climbing, but if you want to distill down to a couple of moves, you and dwayner won't even hang the first set of holds...and he was climbing almost as hard at 12 and 13 as he is now...go ahead and slam me for saying bouldering only, but if he decided to concentrate in the other realms you'll be blown away there as well...
Now this took me a minute....but I get it! BFD is comparing the accomplishments of a bolt-clippin' prepubescent to the genius of Beethoven. What a stretch! And I suppose that's funny, comparing the incomparable.
Touche'...man, you're indestructible in your world...
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Dr_Flash_Amazing said:pope said:
BFD say:
- 10-year-old Adam Ondra onsights .13b
Anything a 10-year-old boy can do can't possibly be remarkable. Just goes to show you that sport climbing is kinderspiel.
Frank Zappa was a musician of some renown, viewed by some as a great composer, and was fairly popular. At age ten, Beethoven, a fairly well-known composer himself, was tearing shit up on the piano. Clearly, anything a ten-year-old lad can accomplish is unremarkable, and thus we can rest assured that composing music is kinderspiel.
Buenas noches, Poop; and bone swah to Dwayno as well.
OMFG!!! THAT IS FUNNY SHIT!!!!!!!!!
Pope...i got a buddy who is an old fart at 16 THAT WILL JUST KICK YOUR ASS PLAIN AND SIMPLE on bouldering...i'll make no claims regarding crack climbing, but if you want to distill down to a couple of moves, you and dwayner won't even hang the first set of holds...and he was climbing almost as hard at 12 and 13 as he is now...go ahead and slam me for saying bouldering only, but if he decided to concentrate in the other realms you'll be blown away there as well...
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Ummmm...sometimes you'd really like that piece placed BEFORE you go for the next set of crux moves and you want it high, so you lock off, stretch your short ass (well at least mine...hope that doesn't FREAK you out, Erik), slam the cam or place the nut, clip it and then do the crux w/ a semi tr in place...DUH!
Or, he could be referencing just locking the handhold off in a grip as opposed to locking it low to place the piece...
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as a sideline although not proof of the knot she was using:
From the SARBC web site discussion forum at http:// www. sarbc.org
Subject:Figure 8's vs. Bowlines (and cousin), Mar 4 1999
From: Reed Thorne (one of the industry leaders)
I am compelled to take issue with a couple of comments on this site concerning bowlines vs. figure 8's. Over the years, we have used both the bowline and figure eight family knots and bends and have not found the recently-stated conclusions to be true. First of all, I am an avid user of both figure eights and bowlines and each of these has different advantages and disadvantages to offer the user. I have to take issue with the point about figure 8 knots or bends being easier to tie, and inspect, than bowlines, or sheet bends. This type of commentary is very disturbing to say the least. In several noted instances in the time I have been teaching this subject in Arizona State Fire Marshal rope courses since the early eighties, I have seen with my own eyes, those that do not complete the retrace on Figure 8 follow through knots. In one instance, several people standing around did not note the error either. This is referred to in my vocabulary as the "Hill syndrome" with rewoven bends or knots. This is where the person tying the connection, begins the retrace, and then, for whatever reason (distraction, nervousness, etc.), does not complete it. To many novice rescuers, the problem is apparently masked in that it appears to be tied perfectly---even though the final rewoven loop is left to the side and not "finished." Even so-called professionals or experts are making this mistake. I have been told that the famous rock climber, Lynn Hill, was "distracted" several years ago while tying into her climbing rope with a rewoven figure 8 knot. The knot "looked" finished, and had enough residual friction in the unfinished connection to hold it in place, even while Lynn climbed on lead for the length of her rope. Of course after the successful climb, the story goes, she leaned on the rope to be lowered to the ground by her belayer. The knot, now unable to hold her body weight, slipped through and she fell into the tree next to her belayer, narrowly escaping a fatal fall! My point? ANY knot can be tied incorrectly---and, unfortunately---this includes the figure 8 rewoven knot or bend. This is a very good argument for backing up these connections. In Lynn's case, this would have prevented the problem of an unfinished connection. Interesting thing about bowlines and the sheet bends, as "cousins", is that they "fall apart" if you tie them improperly. This is one reason we like them. The student ties it wrong and it falls apart. Simple. Also, I can tell at a glance if a bowline is tied correctly. Isn't this a training issue? We are so used to bowlines and sheet bends that it is the figure 8's we have problems with. If you say that the figure 8 is used more than the bowline (family), I will grant that this statement is probably true. But that is not an argument for the figure 8's use. We could say the same thing about ANY practice. There is allot more on the subject of knotcraft which remains to be said, but I will reserve my comments for a later time--hopefully on this venue.
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Fair enough...
so...what do you tie in w/?
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mtngrrrl said:RuMR said:
And no, you can't partially tie a bowline...it is either tied or it isn't...you can, however, partially tie an eight...
Point of clarification, the book only says that she intended to tie the bowline, not that she started and didn't finish. She continues later with:
"I had poked the rope into the loop in my harness, but, distracted by the actions of fetching my rock shoes..., I had not tied the knot. The end of the rope hung at my waist, hidden underneath my jacket, like a ticking time bomb. Neither I nor anyone else at the cliff noticed my potentially fatal mistake."
The rope never dropped from her harness while she climbed, and when leaned back at the top, she fell.
Sure, she probably does use the same knot, only never forgets to check now. And if you can get those GPS coordinates along with notarized affadavits, I'll believe ya.
my guess is she'll visit seattle/PNW sometime soon w/ a slideshow...how's 'bout we ask her and loser buys winner a
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erik said:
YEAH RUMR CANT BE FULL OF THAT MUCH SHIT, HE JUST DOESNT HAVE THE CAPACITY BEING SO SHORT!
ahhh...but i'm a fat f'er!! Volume is the same...
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i can get witnesses...and DFA can provide the gps coordinates...Does that count??
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HAHAHAHA...you got me, that was an intentional name drop
... ...she used to live in bend and was at smith all of the time. At the base of the usual Churning queue that forms in the evening she was carrying on a conversation w/ the crowd milling there about the "knot" issue...and it was plain to see what knot she was tying in with.
And no, you can't partially tie a bowline...it is either tied or it isn't...you can, however, partially tie an eight...
Caveat: This was more like 4 years ago...not 2, so if my memory is suspect regarding the time, than feel free to suspect for the rest of my "facts"
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That is an error in the book, which she did not write, Greg Child did...I can absolutely guarantee you that she's tying in w/ a DBB knot as of 2 years ago, since i witnessed it.
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isn't your jpg the eye of the hulk???
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Two different things: Getting pissed/frustrated at a route or going climbing after something's torqued you...
I find gettin' pissed at a route lets me climb harder...going climbing when you're already screwed up sucks though...
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I can't climb worth anything when i'm pissed or depressed...just don't want to do anything...
this is with the caveat that i suck anyway...
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sobo said:
Oh man, that musta sucked! I had some big black Al Roper sorta guy for DiffEqs. Sailed it with nary a care in the world. I was so lucky. But I took 4th qtr. Calculus twice (triple integrals) with the same prick both times... Rastislav Telgarsky, I'll never forget that name.
Ahhh thizziz bringin' back memories!!! Man, i miss tech in the spring!! And the NEW would be rockin' right about now...maybe a bit on the hot side in the afternoons, but the laurel would be out!!!
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Jerome said:RuMR said:
Oh yeah? Well how are you getting the gunk out from under your fingernails?????? I guess the stuff worx well for gellin' yer hair, though!!!!!!!!!!
Allah, in His munificence, has indeed granted me a bountiful crop of hair on my noggin. On others, it may be distributed along a mean tending towards a woolly mammoth, or, sadly, not at all.
Given my luck, many are persuaded to think I must be using some form of "gel". Not so, I say! Simply good design. My hair follicles leak Aveda Styling Gel. True. Really.
- J
Ahhh dude, you rule!! I'm off to yosemighty next week w/ John Fine and Jeremy...
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sobo said:RuMR said:sobo said:RuMR said:sobo said:
Blew off my FORTRAN 77 final exam to go climbing. Didn't pass the class, took me three more tries to get the grade and graduate. My response to the prof was, "I'm gonna be an engineer. If I had wanted to be a computer programmer, I would've majored in Computer Science." He wasn't amused...
Professer Crittendon? That guy was a DICK!
Was it Crittendon? He was on old WWII vet with an aircraft carrier for a haircut, and big black-rimmed Buddy Holly style specs. If that's Crittendon, then it's him. I hated that fucker!
Nah...different guy...your prof have an accent? I'm trying to remember who that guy is...was he out of the ESM dep't? Or the E. Fundamentals?
I remember Crittendon now. Youngish guy, kinda dweeby looking in a Where's Waldo sortaway. He was EF, as was my FORTRAN prof.
Yeah...that's crittendon...had the worst of both worlds...he was my fortran prof, and his bitchwife was my math prof. for diffeq's...
Euros are getting sick!
in Climber's Board
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AID!!!!!!!