RuMR
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Posts posted by RuMR
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Fine...suit yourself...its all good...your cheating yourself out of some really fun stuff...
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Fence_Sitter said:Listen...i'm not trying to fight w/ you...i don't understand the rag on sport climbing...its where you put your energy is where you'll shine...if you put it into bouldering, that is where you'll perform best...
but that isn't true...i climb 95% trad... but i can rip on sport climbs (compared to trad) it is a full letter grade difference and i never even climb in the gym or on outdoor sport routes...so i disagree...mabe i am just weird like that...
maybe you have some great natural abilities, like really strong fingers and good balance? So face will feel easier? Good for you!
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Fence_Sitter said:
and youthink ofwidth technique is a dated technique? do you think the cracks should all conform to your preferences so that you can climbing in your style? thing is, cragging is just practice to me...mabe that is our difference. i dont see it as an objective... that is perhaps where we differe and cannot reach consensus... you would choose not to climb OW because you dont have to, where i climb OW because i have to...because i will see it adn if i dont, i will get worked.... i dunno...mabe that is the reason we differ on the matter..
I don't differ on the matter...if the route i'm doing has OW on it, then i'll climb the OW...I'm not sure where you are getting the idea i don't crack climb??? Can you point to where i said "dated"...i said esoteric...different word, as in "not common"...
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Listen...i'm not trying to fight w/ you...i don't understand the rag on sport climbing...its where you put your energy is where you'll shine...if you put it into bouldering, that is where you'll perform best...if you put it into overhangs, fine there as well...if you put it into cracks, you'll dominate in that arena...if you have enuff time you can put it into all facets and become a superb all arounder...some people could care less about sport climbing (maybe you?) some people could care less about crack climbing (maybe DFA) and of course their ability won't be as good in the arena they aren't focusing on...that is a no-brainer...
There are people that can just rip V10 boulder moves, that most people can't even hang on the holds, but then they'll tank at 15 feet of climbing...Are they piss poor climbers? NO...they just aren't into long enduro routes...
I didn't base my arguments in a rare form of trad climbing...quite the contrary...
And to me, 5.10 cracks feel like 5.10 face or 5.10 overhangs or 5.10 slabs...ie, they feel like 5.10. You get in a 5.10 hand crack and you can't fall on the damn thing...what exactly is your point?
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Fence_Sitter said:RuMR said:
Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...
sheesh...
if you are such a tough guy...have you led it?
dont shott your mouth off and talk shit about climbs that you can't/wont do because of fear and lack of strength/technique 
ummm never said i wouldn't climb offwidths, but seeing as i'm not in colorado, don't think i'll get the chance for that particular route...
I'll get on my fair share of ow this week in yosemite...
Why the hostility? Did i insult you???
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erik said:
YEAH RUMR HAS A DEF LACK OF STRENGTH AND TECHNIQUE..
RUMR YOU PUSSY!!!!!!
Yep...total freaking pansy...
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Fence_Sitter said:RuMR said:
Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...
sheesh...
if you are such a tough guy...have you led it?
dont shott your mouth off and talk shit about climbs that you can't/wont do because of fear and lack of strength/technique Hangdogging "a" (as in "one") 5.12 is not climbing 5.12 is it? You flashing them? If not, you are a redpoint climber not a true 5.12 climber...do you consider yourself a 5.12 face climber?????? Is that what you are saying???
THe other point to make, is that there just aren't a whole lotta of OW's out there to go climb...so in general, most people don't get much of a chance to learn them...they are esoteric...
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Woooohboy...it might be off a whole number grade and be 5.10c!! Whhooooooscaredshitless...
sheesh...
actually, current consensus has that thing at mid .11 range...so all this ballyhoo about it being "5.9" is BS anyway...
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hahahaha!!
But that would be impossible whether you were over a nut, cam, 1/2" bolt right??? PFFFFT
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This has got to be the dumbest thread. If you are a good climber you are a good climber. And it goes w/o saying that what you concentrate on is what you'll do best at...
SHEESH
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iain said:RuMR said:
I guarantee you that if some consistent .13c climber decided to work that thing it would go down pretty quick.
.13c maybe, but .13b? not a chance in hell...
the thing is rated .13c...so why compare apples and oranges? Duh...
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wirlwind said:
cool i'm inpressed!
as am i...a double
for you... -
wirlwind said:
well if hes the father of sport climbing i would asume he was one of the people that started bolting things, he proably was a climbing trad before he started sport, and probly bolted alot of stuff while hanging off of trad gear, plus i didn't same it was unherd of i just said i'd like to see it and i still dout that the majority of .13 sport climbers would come close to doing the same on trad
I guarantee you that if some consistent .13c climber decided to work that thing it would go down pretty quick. Problem is, there's not a whole lot of .13c climbers around here and the ones that are here aren't a whole lot interested in local climbing...
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wirlwind said:
all i got to say is i'd like to see some wanker
of a sport climber or boulder for that matter,
that can climb .13's in sport, free city park at index w/gear.
i'll even buy the beer
Ummm...alan watts came damn near to flashing that thing placing his gear...Some refer to him as the "father of sport climbing"...
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Sloth_Man said:
Another sport guy overcompensating.
Just can't handle the fact that sport 10c is trad 9+.
But just for grins. If the crack of fear is trad 5.10 then tell me about a comparable sport climb.
uhmmm...not sure what your gettin' at...at best you've shifted the grade by one...so what, that's insignificant...
I can show you some bolted face 5.9's and .10's back at stone mountain that are as "stiff" as crack of fear if you are a 9 or 10 climber...
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Stefan said:
I got a wife who wears the pants in my family. You try asking her for more time in the mountains. Good luck.
Goddamn dude! I'm gonna kick your ass! Are you married to my wife too!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHA
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texplorer said:
I have seen WW crank down some serious shit and then seen the "livin the life" guys spray about some "sick" 5.9's. I think that being a WW encompasses a great many people. There are those who climb 2-3 times per year, those who climb every weekend, and those who climb every weekend and workout in their garage in the evenings during the week. All fall into the def. of WW but can have vastly different skills.
Having climbed for over 6 months last year and be relegated to the rolls of the weekend warriors I know that your passion doesn't wane - only your bank account. Thankfully student loans help me put off the enevitable four letter word of disdain but at some point we all become W. warriors.
After all, would you want to be the 50 yr old single guy/girl that is a bad ass climber with alot of experiences. Before you answer remember all that you have is a few cool pics, memories, and alot of old gear. No family, no nest egg, no retirement plan. Unless your a trust-a-farian your destined to at least some time in the Weekend Warrior status. And even if you do have money most people want to have some life outside climbing. So there you have it. The reason why we are WWer's (in my humble opinion).
PS screw FOTH.
I can't think of a better way to phrase the way i feel than how tex did!
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glassgowkiss said:
what kind of stupid topic is this? sport you clip bolts and trad you place gear. what is the fucking problem? grades will reflect how much effort it takes to redpoint a pitch. usually people who suck at climbing and their inflated egos can't handle it will say trad is much harder. a complete bullshit, since they will suck ass on harder sport pitch. somehow they will say trad climbing is harder
in order to boost the penis size. 5.10, 11, 12, 13,14 or 15 is the same weather on overhanging limestone or granite crack. type of climbing and technique will differ. of course there will be sandbag pitches weather sport, trad or alpine.but in general the only difference is how you place gear- other wise you'r full of shit and i will straighten you right the fuck out with a good shoe up the ass or kick to the balls
Hi bob! Got my cup on!!!!!!!!! hhahahaha...you crack me up!!!!! -
Off_White said:
POPE
ERIK HAHAHAHA
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I'm a nervous wreck so i bite my fingernailz...
Yes...superglue for cuticle repair is kosher...
It was developed for vietnam war field sutures...
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yes...it worx really well, but its slick, so you have to emory board off the stuff outside the flap or split...i only use it on trips where i don't have time to say "f it, i'll come back later"...
BTW it was developed to replace field sutures and there is medical grade stuff for surgery...
As an aside, some local smith guns in the late 80's would use formaldehyde to develop sick callouses...
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cool...i'm gone next week to yosemite, but i'll be back on the 29th...let's get out some then!!!!
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i can usually get to si by 3:30 or so...index by 4:15...does this work?
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Peter_Puget said:
Dogbone? What is it?
Sorry if somebody has mentioned this earlier in the thread but -
I sometimes bring one of these set-ups on a route:
Materials:
2 ea. ‘biners
1 ea. Spectra sling
1 ea Length of high pressure tubing from auto store slightly shorter than sling.
Cut groove for carabiner at both ends of tubing. Thread sling through tubing and secure a ‘biner to each end.
Usage:
Slide tubing up to carabiner at the clip to bolt end of draw. This stabilizes the ‘biner and enables your reach to be extended simply by holding the bottom of draw. After clipping the bolt the tubing slides down and semi secures bottom ‘biner while freeing the bolt side.
Not for everyday use but on routes with bad clips this system works.
PP
Being a shortshit, I have one draw that i wound about a whole roll of tape around to stiffen it enough so I could reach a bolt from the same stance as everyone else...then i clipped a loose sling on it w/ a biner on the other end so I don't risk "binding" or twisting the setup against the bolt hanger...I started this by climbing routes bolted by that 6'-5" giant doug reed at the new river gorge...
Euros are getting sick!
in Climber's Board
Posted
are you playin' devil's advocate here!!!!!!!! This is a quote from you a little while ago...
"i had never thought abuot it before, but i climb about the same cracks and sport...i just thought i was an anomaly...i dont climb that hard (10) but i have noticed that people see mee leading 10's on trad and say het justmp on this 11 sport piece and i just flail... i had never thought that they might be even, but it makes sense what you are saying... "