RuMR

fuggoff

good thing we have the likes of dwanus for keeping it real around these here parts!

consensus?? WTF...just send them to Ramuta...no one is better, period...at best they'll equal his work, but they sure as hell won't better it...

Where did you get the idea the belayer should be attached with minimal slack? Sounds like some bs the mountaineers would teach. I would argue that the belayer needs slack to dodge falling rock or gear and to maintain circulation on long semi hanging belays and that a soft catch, as provided by the belayer jumping/being jerked up, is the far better and safer catch (ie the one i like to be caught with when i fall...and i fall a fair amount).

How much energy the impact of the slab, the pulled gear etc took up, I don't know. I DO know that the piece that caught the climber was less than 10 feet above the belay. The climber ended up at least 20 feet below the belayer. Let's say 30 feet of rope was out. That puts the theoretical fall factor OVER 1. Obviously the impact lessened that SOME, but any fall where the climber falls below the belayer is going to hit hard. If the belayer didn't know how bad a high factor fall could be, yet took rope burn on both hands and stopped him, then she should be commended. If you don't know what you don't know, then how would you know that you are unprepared to handle a situation like that? Good thing this ended up like it did and all involved (and not) can learn from it. i think blowing the gear and hitting the slab reduce the fall factor well below 1...

i'm with Joseph on this one...done properly there is no burn, even for factor 2...

couldn't agree more with that advice

that'd put kevbone out of business...

to all USA Climbing kids competing at their respective Regional Championships! Climb your best!!! You guys/gals are inspiring!

The other mega feature that will go soon (my guess is w/in ten years) is the large flake system that forms the lieback system to the anchors of Aborigine at Little Si...there is also a lot of climbing on that feature on the crossover from Californicator onto Technorigine...this system's gap has changed significantly over the course of the last ten years...

So sad...

careful...a fly might buzz in for a look-around...

PUSH ME -->

unchecked idealism leads to blind stupidity...ground up..no bolts....etc. I doubt anyone will start bolting next to cracks. It's like a paranoia....ooooo bolts nexts to cracks...who knows of a bolted hand crack in Washington State? Tradition is to be guarded but not used as a spearhead. Your right, "classic" doesn't make a difference. Look at how many bolts are next to cracks on El Cap...... This is a fun little topic to waste a little time on, but I'm done now. i remember a certain someone who got all in a huff over a certain spanish crack that was bolted...can't remember his name, TIM, can you??

yeah...the vertical world teams are pretty sick at generating the freaks.. scary thing is that a lot of those little kids climb in V8 and higher range pretty consistently... you used to compete as a youngin' in Canucky-land if i remember correctly, right?

couldn't agree more with that sentiment...

That definitely helps...the tendon insertion of his forearm to bicep mechanically is enormous relative to the weight he has to pull... Oh, and by the way, AWESOME send Marc...I'm not showing this to Drew though, because i don't want him getting any, uhhhmmm, bad?, ideas...

you need the #4 rock size fingers... like this:

oh...and reeds is great...also lunatic fringe... man, i wanna go!!!

also, the cragging on El Cap is pretty good... little john l or r moby dick sacher cracker even the first pitch of the salathe

braille book steck salathe

yeah, unless you're part of the gang, mums the word... whatever, whirlwind...

That's cheating, Dru. Next time, take point. oh dru takes *point* all the time...

i fell off once because of my harness weight and qd weight! really, i did!!! hahahahaha

pm sent...