RuMR

man, i didn't want to walk over there...i was bracing myself for some really sick stuff...had my buddies dig out their cell phones to call 911...made my kids look away and not come over... Weird weird day at index...not a dull moment all day long... Glad you guys are ok! And thanks for the knife, thai peanuts, and matches...

what does that mean? the place is a miniclone of Indian creek...

This just in... pax, chuck and oly have a three way goin'!

coach Tyson! team took 1st place at nationals...those monkey farts worked hard for this...

bored again, tool??

you are such a geek enginerd! hahahaha

Thanks guy. I'll take some diamox and climb up Eagle Mountain and see if I get sick. I won't drink any water and I'll carry a big pack full of my spring-loaded camming devices to simulate my upcoming Godzilla climb. is it hard to be a dick all the time?

could you be getting nauseous from exertion as opposed to altitude? Or nerves???

that's millisecond...you just bit it...

go back to bejing...

all the more reason not to belong to just one camp or school of thought...oftentimes, the gym produces far superior "moving" skills...precisely what is needed on runout scrambling 5.EZ shit that is not protectable, while prescribing to the mountaineer school of thought of trad only climbing will get you in trouble on scrambles due to slowness and ineptitude... one must engage in all aspects of climbing, from bouldering to hard sport climbing, to crack climbing to delicate slab climbing to become competent on rock. one dogma or form of climbing is no better nor worse than another... one oughta be able to flash consistently at one level regardless of the style of climbing... Anyway, that's all i've got to say... PP is the most correct poster yet on this board when he says that it is a moment of inattentiveness that ultimately will kill you; and yes minx, i think it all boils down to using your brain...even if that means saying "you know, i don't know what the hell i'm doing and i need to go get somebody to show me"...if you are stupid/ignorant/or uninformed you are going to die in certain environments unless you got lucky or believe in the grace of god...deal with it...

BINGO...the jellyfish scored a point...

no, he's saying exactly what i'm saying... Wouldn't you say that blind belief in rope and gear and bolts always working ala sportclimbing is a form of dogma?????? In fact, its as dogmatic in the other direction as the ol' mantra "the leader shall not fall"... either one is not appropriate for every case... I'm learning alot about teaching this stuff because I'm working with my oldest child now...he's venturing into climbing and before i tell him "do this" i always make HIM tell me what should happen and why to make him THINK...BTW, he's almost seven and displays a lot more judgement than a lot of the idiots on this board do...

that is the long version of what i've been saying all along...you must use your brain first! dogma is not gonna save you...

arguing with you is pointless...you are a giant blob of gelatinous nothingness, an intellectual jellyfish if you will...

and maybe a prussik will and maybe it won't...why not just not rap off the end of your rope??

bullshit...leg wraps rule...its basically a prussik around the thigh and is very secure...

you can adjust the lengths of ropes while on rappel quite easily by locking one strand and rapping the other... also, two wraps around a leg with a hitch on the weighted strand will lock one off... FWIW i don't rap with prussiks or autoblocks and haven't gotten into trouble yet...who just raps down the rope without looking below???????

i routinely push myself in both environments and fall often on gear and bolts... if the gear is adequate and you've placed it properly than bombs away...if there is no gear (or it sucks), don't get in over your head and downclimb... once again, it boils down to the grey matter that's driving the whole system... dogma this and dogma that is just flat stupid...you got a number 2 cam buried in competent granite with no possible ledge smacks? Well, what's the difference between that and a bolt???? maybe you are unsure of you gear skillz?

I don't turn off my brain in either case...

no D... one should have the exact same approach whether sport climbing or trad climbing as they will both kill your ass dead if you fuck up...

you know, this is going to sound callous, and i've been hemming and hawing all day about whether to say this... BUT SHIT HAPPENS and if you can't use the number one piece of gear you have (your brain) then you really shouldn't be a climber...maybe a librarian or sumpin' like that, but goddammit, there is a lot of potential energy when you are up in the air and if you fuck up it will kill you flat out... I don't care whether or not you take a course or read some stupid book or have your "rad climbing buddy" tell you, any idiot ought to be able to equalize their ropes before rapping off... do you really really think that it isn't painfully obvious that if you don't even the ropes, or you rap off the end, there is no good ending?????????? DO YOU NEED SOMEONE TO "INSTRUCT" YOU?????? PAY THE FUCK ATTENTION...its really that simple...and having said that shit still happens and gravity is always there...and if you get enough people involved in this activity there will be deaths and injuries...

...you can rap uncoiling your rope as you go...