RuMR

Well said Ross. Hey, whomever said it about questioning Fred's bolt location. What makes you think it was FB's lead and is the culprit who drilled the "sh!tty" bolts in the firstplace??? GRID BOLT THE WORLD! ooops, my outside typing voice got the better of me again. have you checked ebay for some goldline and hobnailed boots lately, bitch?

man, this blows...i remember seeing that climbing article on the salathe and being so stoked as a kid...totally sucks..

OMFG...Pope you are HUMAN after all! Nice post!!!

BovineWart... by your logic we should be climbing in hobnailed boots with hemp lines...

he's a chauvinist pig...don't take it personally!

he's young...and motivated...

Bob...the shit going on there is out of hand, but i'm curious if you were this "outspoken" about say Rwanda? If not, i think you can step down from your high horse right about now....

Drew...i know you've busted your fanny to get to the level of climbing (very high, i might mention) that you are at, but many people will simply never get to the level that your climbing at for two reasons: a.) they simply don't have the innate talent/strength and b.) they don't have the time to dedicate towards training and developing the skill. Nonetheless, i would venture to say that some of those people savor climbing every bit as much as you do or even more due to the very limited amount of time they can get to go and do it before life overwhelms them. Is there room for these two types of climbers to coexist at index? Should they be absolutely doomed to climb at total shit piles like exit 38? The counter argument to this is that i don't think anyone wants to see Index develop into the shitfest that is I90 climbing... Someone above (don't want to go reread every post) started spraying about the "numerous" routes under 5.10...index doesn't have a ton of them, so why not allow a shortened version of Jap to exist? Does it really do anything to lower your experience of the full pitch? Honestly? Cleaning up the tat and other shit at the crag would be a better time to spend energy on than worrying about an intermediate anchor on an excellent pitch...

pope is just cranky cuz it was don's turn last night....

I was unaware I'm not an engineer. Fuck, better stop using the Bridgeport and lathe to make actual product for actual companies as I have since the millenium I had the fucking work quoted - by a real machine shop, not an Intel employee and grad student - who are grossly overpaying. (to be fair the initial conversation was his son being shocked at how much ice tools cost - it progressed from their) Most of cost for outdoor gear is marketing and distribution. BAWHAHAHAHA...hey carl, how much would it cost to tool up some neutrinos?? I keep misplacing them everywhere...

Why should all buyers of BD crampons pay for that shit? I don't give a fuck about that - or 90% of the other causes BD donates money too. I'd be happier with cheaper gear. They didn't. What I am saying is the same guys who did put it up are the same guys Jens is hurting by publically whinning here. He asked for an engineer to weigh in and Paul and I did. FUCK THOSE GUYS TOOL! like i give a shit...or jens should give a shit...its a free fucking forum moron... do you get blown for defending them publicly or sumpin'?

fuck off Nolse...you can buy AMERICAN climbing shit in europe and ship it back here for CHEAPER than it costs to go over to the evil empire or buy straight from BD...they are charging what the market will bear...

yo! Howdy!!!

hey... check your pm's... thanks!!

know where i can get structural bar tacking done??

Damn, that's the first I've heard of that. Guys like John Long recommend tying into their primary with a figure eight loop then clove hitch to any additional pieces. I guess there is a very good reason for this. i think it'd be pretty hard to untie an 8 if you went factor 2 onto it...

nah...that whole mullethead thing is not on my head...the rest is appropriate though...

a younger faywhether?

you could say that pinkofairywhethernot is a bit of an anachronism!

so fairyweather...what do you think of woodward's new book?? Feel like a sucka for voting for that crook?????

i think kev is not opposed to running it out well under his onsight grade...that is a fine attitude... fwiw, i think that a first ascensionist who has spent the time to find, clean and prep a route has the dibs on the style...if he wants to go ground up and take what he can get, that's fine and if he wants a rap bolt every 2 feet that's fine too...and he'd better be prepared for the critique he's gonna get which ever way he chooses... also, i think that areas have styles associated with them and generally, its not a good idea to go in and "change" the style of the area...

no...just wanna start the threads about poop and dwanus and their upcoming nuptials and i need everyone on board...

stunk stunk stunk...smells like wet dawg...

equals dwayner... discuss

So often do you take 30 footers Dru.....once a week? once a month? once a year? Thats' kind of what I thought. Does anyone here take 30 footers on a regular basis(on something that isn't completely overhanging)? How about 15 footers on a regular basis? Yes I climb above gear. Yes I've run it out a bit on occasion. Yes I've climbed above marginal gear. I'm n hardman, but I don't think I suck either. However I won't run it out above marginal gear on hard terrain. No route is worth the risk at that point, and if some act of god causes me to pitch then I better hope all I get is broken ankles. I've never taken a 30 footer (a couple of 12-15 footers and few shorter ones) and aspire never to have to. My dad broke his neck on 10ft fall Prusik years ago. 30 ft is dangerous. 90 ft is just stupid, and if your doing that on a regular basis I hope you don't have a family to mourn you. 15 ft between gear on a moderate alpine climb (5.4 to 5.8) is probably reasonable. 15+ ft between gear on something relatively hard (sustained 5.9 or harder) is getting into an area no one I know is willing to risk. Just keep praying the hold doensn't break, or goat doesn't kick a rock down. I think a potential for a 30ft fall on relatively hard climbing qualifies as a "hardman" route. Ok, back to usual entertainment of everyone stroking there egos. edited cuz i don't get out very much anymore you'd better stay away from ceuse, verdon, buoux, etc if those numbers scare you...