RuMR

a younger faywhether?

you could say that pinkofairywhethernot is a bit of an anachronism!

so fairyweather...what do you think of woodward's new book?? Feel like a sucka for voting for that crook?????

i think kev is not opposed to running it out well under his onsight grade...that is a fine attitude... fwiw, i think that a first ascensionist who has spent the time to find, clean and prep a route has the dibs on the style...if he wants to go ground up and take what he can get, that's fine and if he wants a rap bolt every 2 feet that's fine too...and he'd better be prepared for the critique he's gonna get which ever way he chooses... also, i think that areas have styles associated with them and generally, its not a good idea to go in and "change" the style of the area...

no...just wanna start the threads about poop and dwanus and their upcoming nuptials and i need everyone on board...

stunk stunk stunk...smells like wet dawg...

equals dwayner... discuss

So often do you take 30 footers Dru.....once a week? once a month? once a year? Thats' kind of what I thought. Does anyone here take 30 footers on a regular basis(on something that isn't completely overhanging)? How about 15 footers on a regular basis? Yes I climb above gear. Yes I've run it out a bit on occasion. Yes I've climbed above marginal gear. I'm n hardman, but I don't think I suck either. However I won't run it out above marginal gear on hard terrain. No route is worth the risk at that point, and if some act of god causes me to pitch then I better hope all I get is broken ankles. I've never taken a 30 footer (a couple of 12-15 footers and few shorter ones) and aspire never to have to. My dad broke his neck on 10ft fall Prusik years ago. 30 ft is dangerous. 90 ft is just stupid, and if your doing that on a regular basis I hope you don't have a family to mourn you. 15 ft between gear on a moderate alpine climb (5.4 to 5.8) is probably reasonable. 15+ ft between gear on something relatively hard (sustained 5.9 or harder) is getting into an area no one I know is willing to risk. Just keep praying the hold doensn't break, or goat doesn't kick a rock down. I think a potential for a 30ft fall on relatively hard climbing qualifies as a "hardman" route. Ok, back to usual entertainment of everyone stroking there egos. edited cuz i don't get out very much anymore you'd better stay away from ceuse, verdon, buoux, etc if those numbers scare you...

kevin's point is on the top of his head...

yeah!!! LET'S DO IT!!!

hey ben, you dumb geofuck...go find some liquified sand to take a swim in, tool... hopefully, your fat ass is bouyant enough to stay afloat so i can throw rocks at you...assmunch... Hey, we gotta go get some brewskis to cry into sometime...

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Assuming that they used 120' ropes they could have reached the belay above the roof. I bet they were using 150'. In any event a review of some photos of the FA shows that the leader had a beefy haul/rap line tied to his harness. The bolts I mentioned are not on Stern Farmer but are located just to the right. They lead up to a horizontal break. Has this gone free? and if they had 150' ropes could they rap to the ground with out the haul/rap line visible in the photos? Honestly, the bolts have prooven useful to me but I clipped the anchor in disgusted retreat due to the proximity to the crack. Yet, if I would have had the gumption to conitnue and attempt the difficult Full Pitch 1, I would have done so by clipping the lower down anchor/short pitch 1 anchor. This to me, is legal since the bolts are there long ago. I do support removal and relocation. Realistically would a relocation proove useful or accessable for someone climbing the short pitch?? again, they are in a perfect stance location...totally obvious location if one would put in a "mid pitch" anchor... pretty trivial deal if you ask me...

Minx, I would hope every rock climber would cringe at the idea of sticking an anchor a fraction of the way up a crack pitch of ANY difficulty. Whether the full pitch is something way out of your league or whether you could free solo it SHOULD be irrelevant. To illustrate, imagine a climb like Illusion Dweller in Joshua Tree. If you can handle 5.10-, you can probably finish that pitch (which features its crux near the top). Now let's suppose that you, Minx, are a 5.10- climber who loves climbing cracks (which you state to be true) and who can finish that pitch (which we can assume to be true if you can handle the "shorty" version of Japanese Gardens). Now let's suppose a 5.8 Mountie decides that if Illusion Dweller featured an anchor 30 feet below the top, it would "add" an excellent 5.8 pitch to Joshua Tree. Would you support that? What about creating a nice 5.6 climb by putting an anchor below the bulge on Classic Crack? I think you would not. You see, it's all a matter of degree. The "shorty" version of Japanese Gardens appeals to you and that is precisely why you think the anchor is appropriate. Anybody who thinks otherwise must be intolerant of climbers who pursue moderate climbs. Well, I think you're missing the point. That short anchor on Japanese Gardens is a bad idea regardless of how hard the long pitch or short pitch is, and definitely regardless of Minx's desires and abilities/limitations. man, you are a clown...there's a full on ledge no hands order-a-pizza stance right there...it doesn't do diddly squat to the full version...just paint them brown so they aren't glaring to groundpounders and move on...

well spoken minx...

isn't a "spray pole" another name for crazypolishedknob??

Glad I can be hear to make you laugh. Does it remind you of the last laugh you had. When you last looked at your dick. Yeah, i always laugh when i look down at that monster!

no kevbeenboned...you are the current biggest joke on here...

too much work...plus, it gives me an excuse for suckin'

what if (in my case) the other cheek is just as fat as the primary cheek?????

my big fat ol' spare tire is not an option in your poll...

shut up you FOG...FatOldGuy...

you fuck bag...answer your goddamned pms...

and that would simulate a fat ass and spare tire PERFECTLY!!

Hey Gary, I use a 25# neoprene weight vest (its variable weight, actually...small pouches for packing with lead)...its built for track sprinting and hugs the body very close and centers its mass through your trunk instead of off your back... the results are pretty phenomenal as i leave with a thrashed back/shoulders/abs as opposed to only thrashed gripping muscles... be warned though, they are not cheap...