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iain

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Everything posted by iain

  1. Ah yes, safety. Ladies I can't believe you let this obvious pervert into your circle of trust. Just don't let him offer to show you his erlenmeyer flask.
  2. You best step off or NOLSe might unleash his 8000m girth pillar. no wonder the trees are so highly-marked!
  3. dammit I want answers. Once again science fails us.
  4. ahhhhh, it's like when the backstreet boys simulcast in memorial colesium sighhhhhhhh. those regal cinema ushers will have their hands full. are you just supposed to sit there and eat junior mints and stuff?
  5. did the slings fit over your tits, catbirdseat?
  6. nice find RBW. I've heard that free bear with articulating jaw is a BJ's wholesale club exclusive
  7. Jesus dude you need some medication. Sorry, no pics of the dome, but I can tell you it has some big dust suncups and a surprising number of crevasses that are often less-than-easy to spot boot-skiing down. It is still quite skiable, but whether it could be called fun is another question. I'd consider skiing done for the year on Hood except for I.Rock/Palmer but I am not a hard case either.
  8. Didn't you see the iMac over by the mazama chute? Someone even thoughtfully bookmarked some quality porn on there.
  9. I thought he already said Snuggles was his preference That talking bear is just to die for!
  10. Well I don't mean to brag but if I was involved it would be more accurate to show
  11. I've got this great story about finding a biner on Watusi Rodeo one time
  12. nice stealth edit
  13. dude jealous is not a noun.
  14. Not very much. And Dru, everyone knows you are Dr Who's number 1 fan. Have you gotten over the fact that the B.C. vanity plate "TARDIS" is already taken?
  15. iain

    Broken Top

    The NW ridge can be done in a day. I doubt you will see any snow at all.
  16. Bowls of Frosted Flakes is not cooking dude
  17. Climb: Mt. Hood-Coe Glacier Icefall Date of Climb: 8/4/2004 Trip Report: HB, Mr. Beer and I made leisurely stroll through the Coe Glacier Icefall this morning. You can make it as fun as you want to. We found some good, but short sections of steep ice to climb, with some interesting route-finding problems at times. Gear Notes: 5 screws, 2 pickets. Pickets were key for at least one belay. Approach Notes: Follow west moraine up, swing around the crags on either side, cross a snow tongue to a notch, and downclimb a crappy gully to the glacier.
  18. iain

    Laptop suggestions

    You get an iBook or PowerBook with OS X and you will have zero problems. You will enjoy it, I guarantee. You will love iPhoto, and all the other applications you can only run on a Mac. You will feel that every penny was worth it. Comparing Macs today to those before is pointless, as they are not the same computer at all. Life is too short to put up with crap software from Microsoft.
  19. iain

    Bad Photo Contest

    Probably a similar experience to when that first placed nut meets the belayer's meat and nuts turning them into nutmeat after dislodging and sliding down the rope conveniently.
  20. Damn I hate the Pearl District, I'd never go trekking there w/o a rain slicker to protect me from the spilt lattes.
  21. I can assure you that you can't see them. If a photo of a ground team and packs lying in the talus offends you, I will remove it though.
  22. Yes, you would think so. I will have to check in with those who were on the ground to get more info, as I was dealing with stuff in the helicopter. Rockfall could also be a possibility. They could have been on the West Face as well, it's hard to tell. The routes are not entirely obvious. I forgot that the climbers on that last accident on Washington were not sure where they were either, and their description of the route they were climbing made it sound like the West Face.
  23. I believe the previous accident (several years ago, featured in some "epics" feature in Rock & Ice) was actually on Central Pillar, 5.8, which is to the right of the West Face. The West Face did not seem like .8 or .9 to me, but it certainly is poorly protected on the first pitch and a fall seems fairly out of the question. However, the rock is quite nice on the second pitch, and while the third "pitch" is garbage, it would be hard to fall off of it. It is evident these climbers fell from high up. Though it does look like they are near the start of West Face, I still think these guys were on either Central Pillar, or Chimney of Space, both of which could be considered poorly-protected high off the ground, and also occasionally damp and slippery in the shade of the West Ridge. Regardless, I'd certainly agree with Don that any of these routes are nothing like routes of comparable grade at Smith or Leavenworth. Oregon High might be a little generous about the praise it gives to these west face routes, but as with any alpine rock climbing, buyer beware. As far as "equipment failure" goes, the two climbers were still roped together, there was no pro attached to the rope, and the rope was intact. One climber still had a belay device attached to the rope. The other had gear racked on the harness.
  24. Approaching Approaching the West Ridge The location of the subjects (the yellow dots are on-scene) Heading home I'm sorry we could not do anything for these climbers. It hit home a bit as a mountain that I have had such good times on and learned so much from became a sad place.
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