iain

Agreed. The Sandy HW feels like you are briefly passing through a whole other world and you are the only one in it. I like the sharp contrast between being alone high on the sandy to the bustle of the south side on descent. I too, need to get out on the north side more. I'll definitely be heading up Cathedral later this summer from C. Cap. Tried to do the dirt scramble later in the fall from McNeil Point last year...don't bother.

From Off-Piste: There will be a nationwide Fee Demo Opposition Day on Saturday, June 15. In Portland, you can make your voice heard at Terry Shrunk Plaza (SW 3rd and Madison) at 11:00am. There will be speakers, music, and more information on how you can make a difference in ending the "pay to play" access to our federal lands. -Iain

As a patroller mentioned to me on the chairlift ride after witnessing a similar friendly encounter: "Strap on a board, strap on an attitude." I tried to use the word gaper the other day and was only greeted with blank stares.

I suspect avatar fishing.

I really don't see anything wrong with using clove hitches on your anchors. I'd use them over a daisychain (however you would use that) anytime. As for the relative slip rating, that will be highly variable. As for using a daisychain as a screamer? No thanks.

Reminds me of a time I was snoozing in the Mt. Hood climber's register when I heard a horrible scraping sound. I looked up with a "What the hell..?" and saw a lady coming in wearing the spikes from her car! Makes me wonder if the Mt. Hood brewpub has crampon scratches on its floor. so to add (OR gapers)... ...if you've ever been on a rope team within 100 meters of Timberline Lodge. ...if you've ever self-arrested to avoid falling into the parking lot.

Peoples' animosity to friendly safety advice when climbing is amazing sometimes. Yes, people can come across as nosey assholes when they give out advice, and you have to demonstrate some tact. If you see someone in another party tied in incorrectly or something, it is unfortunate that you have to debate whether you should point it out to them or not, whether the tongue-lashing is worth it or if they will say "cool, thanks a lot for looking out for us". Being a bit of a recluse, I don't like talking to anyone while climbing, nevermind someone telling me what to do. But even if the advice is from some gaper loudmouth mazama I grit my teeth, smile, and say cheers mate, I'll keep it in mind.

Heard talk of daisies being used as belay anchors? Most companies design them simply to hold body weight (though they can clearly hold much more based on break strength, they bar-tack for body weight on those loops). Has someone heard otherwise?

weather's supposed to be shatty. take your rain slicker.

Mechanical advantage really isn't the issue, as some have pointed out, you can frequently haul directly. Whether you've only got a C w/ biners or you have a winch out there, it's the lip that matters, and the surface on which you are pulling.

quote: Originally posted by erik:

You really should crank out some cc.com stickers. I suggest: "RURP hates me." "Take your freshiez and shove it." "I've seen Steamer's feces." "Gaper"

Let's chill out dudes. AAI's better than RMI or Mounties is it not?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: you get hoome from a climbing trip Sunday at 9:30 and your trip report is posted by 10:30. you put 1 hour into your trip reports.

...if you wear those funny sunglasses that turn everything yellow but don't appear to do anything except certify you as a hipster.

...if (at least in OR) you've pondered why snow tires are required to be removed by April 1st, yet snow park permits are enforced through April 30th... ...if you've seen more than two VW busses in one parking lot.

...if you've eaten it skiing into a refrozen snowmobile track. ...if your side-view mirror has been ruined by an elk rubbing its butt on it at a trailhead. ...if you're a self-proclaimed avy expert after spending a few years in a maritime snowpack.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I think we should build some huts back there and then you can stay for trips and move across the mountains as in Canada. Less impact in the long run and less need for helicopters or snowmobiles. A good idea, but I believe the hut-going clientele are quite different than the typical heli-skier. I must say heliskiing seems like such overkill in the lower 48. The vast expanses of mountain ranges such as the B.C. Selkirks just are not available in the states. It works in Canada because everyone knows where they fly and it's easy to go to ranges where they don't. Even then, they can still be heard buzzing in a neighboring valley from time to time, but it's a minimal intrusion.

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: A friend of mine was helicoptered out of the Okanagon due to a knee injury. He had to pay for the helicopter. I know of somebody else (a friend of a friend) who was helicoptered from a recreational boating accident by the Coast Guard. No charge for the helicopter rescue even though it appeared it was a more substantial rescue. You will rarely, if ever be charged for a military operation like that. Perhaps your Okanagon friend was picked up by federal contract helicopters? In that case a bill is more likely. N'tl Guard or C.G. are paid through taxes and written off as a training expense.

Well conditions were particularly hazardous the other weekend when the freezing level skyrocketed up to 10 grand for the first time, and I witnessed an excessive amount of slide activity. Obviously, it's not too difficult to know when the hazards exist in spring, but there was no report given. They have an enormous budget compared to other forecast centers, so I would think an extension into the climbing season would be a good decision. The Mazamas would have appreciated it, for instance. This was the exact time of the last OR climbing fatality (though they probably would have ignored ANY warning).

I don't see how anyone can say the NWAC is adequate in spring. They don't even put out a forecast!

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: ...he's really screwed up. He forces me to do horrible things in the mountains! One of those embarrassing bivies again, eh? I don't need to hear about your late-night antics.

When I come back to a 3 comment topic and there's about 15 new comments it's got to be good. To be clear, my "I like" was not a certificate of support for swearing, just pointing out typical behavior of the individual. Carry on.