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hotchick is one word fejas, one word, 2 syllables, pronounced like you're sneezing

I will not be at hood this weekend. I know this troubles you greatly erik. note that many on this board have been on hood far more than I btw cooper spur blows!

can you believe this forecast? seems more like March than May! freezing levels don't get over 5 grand or so and snow is still accumulating. what's up?

As far as I can tell, there has not been such a case, which is quite telling of how much tensile strength is available in ropes. Tension over an edge seems to be the leading factor which produces rope failure, based on accidents involving rope breakage. Even new ropes seem to fail this way. I guess the point is that an unused dynamic kernmantle rope would seem to be safe, even after many years of storage. This is all a subjective observation on my part, and I am not claiming to be in the right here.

you'll see all kinds of gear on sandy hw. It can be done quite reasonably with a single ice axe but 2 tools are fairly common. There are sometimes short steeper bulges of alpine ice when the route has been scoured. These can be a surprise to people who read about sandy being an average of 45-50. The route can be more intimidating later in the year as it turns to harder ice. Early season it is quite an easier climb. I have felt comfortable soloing it, which says something about its steepness (I'm pretty much a pansy) but a fall would be quite severe. I would recommend simulclimbing with 3 pickets and 2 shorter screws if you don't mind that much weight. Good luck! One of the best on Hood. Say hi to Erik on the south side on your way down!

I'd use your 5 year old rope w/o hesitation. All disclaimers apply to this post!

here's a question: has there EVER been a documented accident in SPORT climbing that can be attributed to rope failure?

link? avalung save, revelstoke

13" of pow reported at T-Line on Mon morn! Dunno what's up there these days.

hmm, I think we were back in the parking lot around 1pm, so sixish, sevenish hours or so? Didn't keep close tabs on time. Much time could be shaved off by not getting in whiteouts and not dinking around in general. I seem to remember you were clocking in at 5.5 hours or so, that's a pretty good time.

hmm doesn't quite look like 11'o'clock from that last picture, but pretty cool looking nevertheless. b-top is the skier's playground for sure. the hardest part of 11 couloir is the end of the traverse over to the nw ridge and summit block, can be spicy! erik let me know when you want to get that guide up the south side 'o' hood.

Hey, yeah that was us at the saddle. Probably a good call with that whiteout you experienced, hard to say when that weather was really moving in. The Reid was a total cakewalk, hard ice, no problem. Sking over that debris coming out of Leuthold was tough though. Big cemented ice blocks that would break a ski. Wy'East was nicely set up with no concerns, the cloud cover keep the entire mountain in very good shape all day, and I think it was actually colder in the afternoon than the morning. There were a few tracks down the face heading to Heather Canyon. It would have been an awesome ski the day before. Hope you guys get back there to finish the business in L.C. It looks like Hood will have a late, but very good climbing "season".

relax, it just means you suck and are in over your head

she's climbing in thailand. you can check it out on rockclimbing.com where erik plagerized the photo. erik stick with it, I know you can send the south side of hood if you fight for it. take it easy on the twinkies and go for the onsight.

definitely money going to a good cause, but doesn't Simonsen ever get sick of talking about that thing? seems like he's been at it for a few years now

btw that picture above looks like they're installing avalanche mitigation or something

my mom bought a nutcracker from the MOMA catalog they ship out. so far it has worked out to about five bucks/walnut

L. give me metric or give me death

basically if there is any accident anywhere in the cascades it will be posted here and subsequently discussed ad nauseum. ps what is the difference between and ? I can tell you what is the same: they both suck!

don't listen to the naysayers. while the craggers bitch about the rain good to hear people are out there still catching quality turns. right on.

Actually we got a close up look at the spider just as things turned for the worse, then it was basically like that scene in the matrix where everything is white for awhile. By "colorado style" I just meant nice water ice I guess. Just not used to seeing that kind of stuff here in May. If you guys are going to do it, you might think about spending a day on the north side to toy around on that ice. We didn't get to enjoy everything as much because we had to keep moving to beat the Wx.

yeah we were sweating it a bit coming around newton clark g. when that whiteout hit. thought that was the end of visibility for the next few days.

ah the irony of losing the location of your gps

without fail there is a post like this one over the weekend. totally hilarious