Finally had a go at this gem today (5/03/2003). Left Timberline for Illumination Saddle at 0600. Encountered several groups at the saddle backing off of Leuthold Couloir for one reason or another. Bad weather was forecast for later in the day so we were questioning our decision making. We felt good about making it out before the weather, so we skied down onto and across the Reid Glacier. No crevasses in sight yet.
Getting over Yocum on skis started out okay but we threw on the spikes when it got too steep and icy for our liking. Sandy Glacier is totally covered. We crossed right in the middle and over Cathedral Ridge. Crossed above Barrett Spur over the Ladd Glacier. Coe Icefall is impressive as always. Some bigger cracks beginning to show in places.
Skinned up a ramp onto Snowdome, skinned to top of Snowdome to cross the Eliot Glacier. This was the only stretch we roped up for. There are some big whoppers opening up here but all were bomber bridges. More just a series of holes to avoid. The bergschrund to access the north face gullies is still bridged but just barely.
We skied down the Eliot a ways in the worst breakable crust I've encountered in awhile. There is an awesome colorado-style ice climb up the east lateral moraine of eliot right now. looks totally sweet. huffed and puffed up cooper spur to tie-in rock. and became enveloped in a whiteout. stumbled across the newton-clark glacier in the soup, hoping not to run into the icefalls we knew of out there, but they were all very well filled in. skiing in a whiteout on glaciers you rarely visit is intimidating, and perhaps rather foolish. glided across the wy'east face and dropped into white river glacier. traversed out to wind up just above the palmer lift.
excellent adventure on this oregon classic. looks like we beat the weather, but only just. the thickening clouds added to the experience. we brought crampons, axe, helmet, 8mm line, glacier gear, and were glad we did. I wore plastic mountaineering boots instead of my at's and regretted every minute of it. skiing refrozen avalanche debris and nightmare breakable crust above crevasses in invernos was some of the most challenging skiing I've done in awhile. all climbing routes encountered are in. Go get it!