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sk

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Everything posted by sk

  1. my bells are small enough i can wear a sweater over them if need be. W00T i can not wait for Tuff LUV!!!!! Steve? are you going to be there?
  2. that is brilliant. I want to know what advice you would give to a husband. if it is as brilliant we need to write a book and go on the road trouring and saving american marridges.
  3. Yep, same thing happens to me. Me too. Sucks. same i hate the owey day er um i mean days and i don't even get close to 17 pitches. i think that would kill me
  4. flyingpig'sboytoy... No, i don't know anything about gear or climbing...everything i learned about climbing i learned from this here site...swear to god i did... OMG me too
  5. i am all set i will be there with my bells on and i have new rockshoes too
  6. I like you
  7. you are totaly missing my point. and you know it. gear as we know it now was invented at a time when climbing was persued in a different way than it is today. I think that if you want to spend your day hang dogging on active pro then maybe you aught to engienier a kind of pro that is desinged to hand dog on. not pro that was designed in case of a fall... (not because you are going to fall on that crux 4 times before you can wire the move) I have seen a shodily placed yellow alien hold just fine. but that was one of very few falls that piece had ever seen, likely has seen to this day. how many falls had the piece that blew seen? you tell me? was it commen for this climber to push above his climbing limit and tork out so hard he had to place the pice and down climb to rest inorder to make the move through the crux? and if so perhaps he aught to spend more time climbing at his level. we all want pices to hold but the fact of the sport is it is fucking dangerouse. if it were safe it would be hocky think again Rumr you will see there is logic in what i am saying and it is not just muffy logic. we put gear in for the same reason most of us waare a seat belt or a helmet. just in case we fall it gives us better odds than nothing at all. most people do not put on a seat belt and think to them selves "well i have my seat belt on now i am going to ram my car into the next brick wall i see. I will be fine, i have my seat belt on." it gives us a chance to continue to live where otherwise we would have no hope. I have never ever read any garentee on any peice of gear anywehre that has said it will make climbing safe. that philosophy of yours will limit you...ie, you can't work something at your limit if you can't pound on the gear...that is great that you've seen a "shodily placed alien" hold...whatever, the point remains that if i place a piece that i deem to be able to hold a fall (whether its one, two or a hundred) the piece better hold or i got some serious issues with the design. An analogy is when i click my seatbelt in, i expect the seat belt to remain fastened. big duh there. and your thoughts about hang dogging and cams not going together is total bullshit...the guy who INVENTED the cams was one of the first doggers in the valley and his express purpose for inventing friends was to get on cracks that were cutting edge at the time (some still are pretty stiff) and he WORKED the shit out of those routes...you wanna argue some more? Or do you wanna go out and climb some choss pile that you KNOW you aren't gonna fall on and if maybe you do the gear "might" hold????? it must be great to operate in a world running on "muff logic"! it is you know Rumr i love to through shit out there because i learn new things when i state an oppinion. I still think that cams as they are today right now could be improved upon to meet the needs of climbers today. and i still think that you are an engeiner, if you want garenteees invent gear that can make them. until you do that, cams pop from time to time. hopefuly when it does happen you have other peices that will hold. if not you will meet the deck just like every other climber. i don't know a single climber how hasn't seen a perfectly placed cam walk, or change position between the time the leader placed it and the 2nd cleand.... becasue i follow almost exclusivly i think i have a different percpective. there are alot of reasons i don't like to lead and what i have stated here is a big reason. the sharp end is dangerous... even with great gear, perfect placement and knowledge of the climb. shit happens. as far as being limited because of my philosophy about climbing and my lack of 100% trust in the gear. ya you are probably right. If i were to push hard and hang dog every route and work climbes i bet i too could be working into .11 or maybe even .12's if i stopped eating too. but that isn't why i climb. don't get me wrong i hag dog and play on topropes realy offten and i think it is realy fun. i am in no way saying it is wrong to hang dog. i am saying i don't think falling on gear is 100% garenteed safe and i don't think you should expect it to be either.
  8. you are totaly missing my point. and you know it. gear as we know it now was invented at a time when climbing was persued in a different way than it is today. I think that if you want to spend your day hang dogging on active pro then maybe you aught to engienier a kind of pro that is desinged to hand dog on. not pro that was designed in case of a fall... (not because you are going to fall on that crux 4 times before you can wire the move) I have seen a shodily placed yellow alien hold just fine. but that was one of very few falls that piece had ever seen, likely has seen to this day. how many falls had the piece that blew seen? you tell me? was it commen for this climber to push above his climbing limit and tork out so hard he had to place the pice and down climb to rest inorder to make the move through the crux? and if so perhaps he aught to spend more time climbing at his level. we all want pices to hold but the fact of the sport is it is fucking dangerouse. if it were safe it would be hocky think again Rumr you will see there is logic in what i am saying and it is not just muffy logic. we put gear in for the same reason most of us waare a seat belt or a helmet. just in case we fall it gives us better odds than nothing at all. most people do not put on a seat belt and think to them selves "well i have my seat belt on now i am going to ram my car into the next brick wall i see. I will be fine, i have my seat belt on." it gives us a chance to continue to live where otherwise we would have no hope. I have never ever read any garentee on any peice of gear anywehre that has said it will make climbing safe.
  9. okay here is where the arugments start. what ever happend to the leader never falls ethic? if you climb to fall you will. if you climb above your ability level your likelyhood of falling increases. if you repeatedly take falls your chances of dying increse dramaticly. perhpas we are expecting gear to do something only bolts were ment to do. hang dogging was invened by sport climbing because it is safer (not safe but safer) to take a fall. let the bashing begin
  10. sk

    Helle-fuckin'-luja

    DH has a stalker. hey i thought i was his stalker damn it all i have compatition
  11. Whooaa. pervert
  12. I see the official watchers of the things this weekend and i will check in with them. cross your fingers. i totaly want to come i love Luv Fest
  13. close but no cigar
  14. sure is... southern willamette valley thinger makes me sad so i have to self medicate
  15. Dru the Spraysage.... have i told you i love you lately??
  16. ahh i think there is something like this in every climbing community. can any one say f-------e *gasp* nope can't say it
  17. PLAB!!!!!! i think that is one of my favorite words
  18. what else are you going to do when you come across a body and you are already 20 piches up??? as climbers we face our mortality more often then most and i think it gives us the right to find humor in the fact that we too may pass anytime now. i think we all try to show some ammount of class when someone posts a recent accident or posts about someone they know passing. this is long past and half a world away. let us have out moment of it not being personal for once. i for one am greatful it is not anyone i know and that this accident was long ago mourned.
  19. sk

    Campylobacter

    in the spring of 2004 i became quite ill. i was down from april or may til well into august. not just pooing but blood too. i was sure it was cancer and finaly went to the doc. it was some kind of bug i had presumably picked up out somewhere. i feel for you Ivan to a speedy recovery!!!! oh and some one should post a poll about the question about 1 receptical
  20. are we on cc.com? irreverence does have a time and a place.
  21. p.s. i want to see me make out with minx archenemy and pandora
  22. i have kids that weekend. although i might beable to get the GP's to watch the little devils... keep me posted.
  23. sk

    Bitterness

    Naringenin, Muffy. It's good for you. It helps repair your DNA. DNA has to be spelled right. Naringenin fixes spelling mistakes in DNA. that doesn't make it taste any better umm bitter
  24. is your red ball a girl??? cus this thred is about girls making out
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