Layback

Gee Chad thanks. Not sure if you did it out of spite or were trying to help though. Would be a real shame to visit my site in exchange for some helpful beta huh?

Thanks. Glad you liked it. Regarding pics - too dang hard. Besides, you could go to my site and check em out without clicking buttons.

Trip: Matier - NW Face Date: 8/10/2007 Trip Report: Full TR with pics here: http://alpinetarn.com/matier.aspx Friday morning I left sleepy Snohomish at 6:00 am to rendezvous with Matt in Vancouver. Eric and John were going to meet us in Squamish at 11:00. As luck would have it, Matt and I ended up right behind John and Eric in traffic on the Sea-to-Sky Highway just outside of Squamish. After stopping briefly in Pemberton for Pizza and burgers, we headed up to the Joffre area and parked at the Cerise Creek Winter Trail TH. We used the winter trail as the summer trail is accessed by a poorly maintained road overgrown with Alder, which in retrospect we could have driven a car up but chose not to because of reports that it was undrivable. The winter trail, which is free of Slide Alder and Devil's Club, gets it's name not from being a brush bash (quite untrue), but rather because the summer trail is inaccessible in winter because the road required to access it (poorly maintained year-round) does not get plowed in winter. If you park at the winter trail be sure to stow away any valuables, as it is the site of many break-ins. We hit the trail (elevation 3,800') at around 3:00 and reached our destination at Keith's Hut (elevation 5,250) roughly a couple of hours later. Keith's Hut, named after a climber killed on an attempt of Canada's Mount Logan, is a climber's/backcountry skier's paradise. From it's deck one can take in the sights of Joffre, Matier and countless others that I can neither name nor pronounce. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1033/1099201829_210bbe75d8.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1011/1100057990_0341085098.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1024/1100062134_c4438babc2.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1159/1099214921_f28a54b1ca.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1422/1100067762_4d59a5990c.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1135/1099230635_ab4bdc3351.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1111/1100093950_f25cf621ae.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1149/1099244933_4764ae0349.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1189/1099251981_6badfb93f6.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1109/1100107100_cf2d71f3ca.jpg On Saturday we awoke at 4:00 am and were trail-bound by 4:45. As we hiked the ridge we watched the sun come up. We stopped at a snowfield on to go over some things and were roped up and on the glacier by 8:00. After taking in the most amazing views from the Matier/Joffre Col, we reach that start of our climb around 11:00 am. Ten – twelve pitches of 45 degree snow and ice climbing (with multiple end-arounds bergshrunds) and we reached the top of the NW Face by 5:30. With daylight fading, we reached the summit at 6:00 pm. We descended via a series of 4th class downclimbing and some exposed snow-slopes and were back on the glacier by 7:30. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1184/1099257263_1c0b8af419.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1153/1100113324_174ec2b05c.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1262/1100113700_7c4d669bda.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1259/1099263141_aa6758f733.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1403/1099263859_1c27b149dd.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1270/1100116758_4bf2ae206a.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1412/1099265041_b3533c0334.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1246/1100120678_a6a10bc4bd.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1382/1100121922_083ccb817c.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1314/1100122974_977cef851f.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1214/1099271409_a1c1d945cf.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1256/1100124028_4aa9a5154c.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1130/1099272569_9db9186ba8.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1380/1100126488_6993cf411b.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1070/1100128048_3d49c984a6.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1243/1100130666_c8944fba75.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1381/1099288413_640668e44a.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1095/1100131386_f965d99fbd.jpg After reaching the terminus of the glacier at 8:30 pm, we unroped and headed towards the ridge. With daylight fading were uncertain about which scree slope was the proper one to bring us back to the ridge and down to Keith’s Hut. After much debate (and trial error) we reached the top of the proper scree slope in blowing sleet at 10:00 pm. We then descended the trail back to Keith’s Hut under headlamp (and guidance from a tiny candle at the hut, which was graciously lit for us as a guiding light by others). Within minutes of crawling into my sleeping bag it began to rain bullets on the tin roof of the luxurious hut. I was glad to be back and in my cozy bag. Sunday we descended to the cars under light drizel and celebrated in Whistler. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1196/1100135454_af2a5519f3.jpg Gear Notes: (6) 23 cm ice screws (used 3) and 4 pickets

Thanks - That is very helpful. I appreciate it.

Nice job & great pics! I am doing Matier this weekend via the NW Face. I am curious, was there any ice? What gear do you think would be helpful?

Trip: Ingalls North Peak Traverse - East Ridge Date: 8/5/2007 Trip Report: Complete TR with photos here: http://alpinetarn.com/ingallspeakeastridge.aspx Our group of 4 met at the TH at 4:30 am and were hiking by 5:00 am. We reached Ingalls Pass pretty quickly with just day packs. Passing through the campsites at the base of the pass we saw the family of goats again. One of them was busy at work eating something in someone's camp (where stuff was left lying everywhere). After startling the goats, we passed Ingalls Lake and started our ascent up the slabs and finally the scree gulley. We reached the base of the climb at 7:30 am Gil drew the short end of stick and I chose the even numbered pitches so that I could lead the crux pitch on pitch 6. Some do the climb in 5 pitches - we had chosen to do it in 6 pitches to avoid the rope drag that commonly occurs on this climb. P1: Pretty straight forward. One move off the ground (5.4/5.5) and then a scrambling traverse. P2: Fun face climbing with 5.5 moves. Some of it run-out. P3: Short pitch involving hard-to-protect down-climbing and some moderate exposure. P4: Amazing climbing up a face that eventually gains the ridge followed by finger traverse with some nice exposure. 5.5 PG P5: Downclimb a bit and then traverse the ridge to a solid belay for the crux pitch. Stay low to avoid rope-drag. P6: Ascend through the roof, moving right over the roof and then back left to gain the final ridge. Nelson reccomends placing pro early as pro is harder to fin near the crux, but I disagree. There were SOLID nut placements at waist level as one enters the crux. I'd give the crux move a 5.5/5.6 rating max (and I am not trying to be arrogant). It's an easy move - don't overthink it. This was a really fun climb with a great group! After summiting, we rappelled via the South Face route. Gear Notes: Gear notes: Set of Aliens. Set of BD nuts. I brought Camalots 3, 3.5, and 4 but did not use any of them.

Nice to meet you guys in the parking lot. I was the 4th from Seattle that bailed after bonking hard in the heat. Congrats to each of you!

Grassy-ass! I lead trad to 5.8 but I am not a big fan of R ratings. We shall see. Thanks everyone for the beta!

Thanks Alex. The first pitch of no-pro - was that also low 5th class or are we talking 5.5-5.6? I appreciate your help!

Thanks Off White. I did a search but there seems to only be beta on the Weigelt Route or the North Face route. Not the North Face West Side route. If there is anyone out there who could clarify Beckey you would be my hero. Not all Beckey descriptions, just this one. One does not want to ask too much...

Has anyone here ever done this route? I have some questions about the slab section in particular. Beckey writes: From the base of the N Face, climb a steep, defined buttress to the major ledge (three leads). An option is to climb the largest depression through the lower cliffs. Continue directly upward through the clean, 45-degree slab for about 3-4 leads of cracks and corners to the ridge W of the summit; on the final two leads, one is only about 50 feet from the dihedral of the Weigelt route. The slab is about 200 ft wide-there is a scarcity of protection opportunities except for horizontal cracks; some long runouts between belays. The large open book near the top is not difficult. Rating: Grade II; 5.6 In the bold section of Beckey's description is he talking about: A) the final two pitches, which is assumingly the large open book near the top, which "is not difficult" or, B) "the clean 45-degree slab for about 3-4 leads of cracks and corners" If A sounds - sounds like fun. If B - sounds scary. If you have done the route can you please confirm? Thanks!

A major work in progress. You'll find trip reports and photography. AlpineTarn.com

Don't get me wrong. I care deeply about the salmon also. You need to read between the lines here. Had the work not been done in the fall it would have been more detrimental to the salmon population than if the workers just said, gee, nothing we can do because of regulations and let the whole damn thing take out thr salmon nests. There are alterior motives at play here. This is the audobon society. They care about birding on the MLH and cars mean no birds. Hence this argument they have cooked up. Please don't be a sheep.

The Pilchuck Audubon Society, notorious for closing FS Roads, is trying to get the MLH shut down permanently despite the fact that it is now complete. We are trying to mobilize over on NWHikers.net. Please read the story and take action: Everett Herald Article

That picture belongs on the last page of Rock & Ice or something. Love the duct tape!

People need to take some g@d-damned rsponsibility for their actions.

Saweeeeet! Thanks!

Saw on NWHikers.net that the Teanaway road is open to the end. Not sure if the posting party mean to their trailhead (Iron Peak) or the actual end of the road. Any recent experience here? Planning on East Ridge of Ingalls before it gets hot over there.

I did not know Mizuki personally, but I knew of her from Mountaineers circles. From what I knew of her she was very skilled and very safe. This comes as quite a shock. My thoughts and prayers are with both families.

This isn't about proving to you God is real. I can't do that and I don't care to. I really don't care what you believe in. At the end of the day you are throwing the baby out with the bath water and the way you conduct yourself is childish. That's a generalization. It's like saying that part of being black is stealing and doing drugs or part of being Iraqi is blowing up large buildings or part of being a high-school drop out is being stupid.

Dude - It's a guidebook with an advertisement on the back. How is that forceing anything on you? As far as I know he didn't show up at your house procaliming, "I am here to save you my brother." You can believe in God and still be a reasonable science-minded individual. Tear the pages out if you don't like them. At the end of the day, your no better than the red-neck right-winged idiots that voted W into office b/c you are brainwashed to the other extreme. Yeah, he's a bit of an extremist, but that's not a reason to not buy beta from him. That's just stupid. Sigmund Freud, the father of modern-day physchiatry thought that everyone should do cocaine because it would be good for society. We discarded that notion because he was a nut, but it doesn't mean that we throw out the baby with the bath water. Anyway, good luck on the new routes.

Another reason not to buy the guidebook. Why is a person's desire to help others find God a reason not to buy the guidebook? I am no Jesus freak, but this dude has good beta and he's passionate about something and trying to do some good in this world. Has he somehow forced his worldview on you? What's your deal? BTW, you can buy the book at the convenience store at the base of the cliff by the lake.