Off_White

Sweet blubbering Jeebus, what's wrong with you people? It's a simple beta request, offer something useful or STFU.

I particularly liked the discovery process: in the first pic, I'd wondered why you had photoshopped a pink aura to the climbers head, though later images made it clear.

Climb: Mt. Washington-ESE Face - Route 2 Date of Climb: 6/11/2006 Trip Report: On Sunday I climbed this route, the line to the right of the SE Buttress. It's worth noting that I found this route in every way superior to the standard Big Creek route: Approach: Steep open old growth forest, only whispers of tread here and there and only two very old pieces of flagging sighted. There was virtually no brush involved. This is also the approach to the SE Buttress. You'll still want boots & axe to get to the SE Buttress this time of year. Route: All snow, up and right, steep bits interspersed with moderate angles, leads into the basin below the SE Buttress. From here, head straight towards the summit then up and left on snowy ramp. I traversed into the regular route ~200' below summit, other lines possible. NOTE: steepest snow had bad/fatal runouts, don't take someone up this who doesn't have snow skills in place. Bonuses: Unpopular route - Saw no one, some indications of steps in snow here and there, at least two weeks old. Spotted small cannonhole in the lower SE Buttress. Spectacular position between SE Butt & E Ridge, much more scenic than Big Creek. Booty: Rope and two pin rap anchor on the sketchy class 3 traverse to the regular route. It's a bit of a mystery: rope from this season, clipped to two pins, heading down a chossy rock wall. I smell epic. Why would you have a rope and pins on this route? Why rap here, when the regular route is 300 feet away? Anchor was bad, two pins in choss, pulled one out with fingers and had to hit the other with a small rock 3 times. If it's yours, provide details of the gear and the story behind it, and I'll be glad to return it. Summit Register: all wet, needs new plastic bag. Familiar names: Fairweather and son from 2004, Hardy Batchelor RIP from 2005, and just the day before me, none other than Paul Klenke. Descent: I opted for Big Creek as a more secure descent than my route up. Snow on the headwall is getting thin. Passed a group of Mountaineers headed up, and lower down had to make a choice whether to follow their line up or Klenke's footprints. Should have followed the mounties. Got into some class 3 BW4 terrain avoiding waterfalls with recently collapsed snow cover. Root clotted Big Creek trail sucks. Gear Notes: Axe Crampons (nice, but not essential) Should have brought a camera Approach Notes: Park at the turnout on the outside curve past the U shaped curve with the two Big Creek waterfalls. There's a single yellowish bamboo wand that marks the trail through the roadside brush.

??

Ah well, write it off to old timers then, I don't recall the big baby alien thing inbetween otto & lila.

I disagree Kevbone, FA sanctity is a long standing custom in climbing. If you want to put up well protected bolted routes, that's your right, but altering an existing route is not a case of "do what you want." Retrobolting without FA party consent and widespread community support is a clear path to bolt wars, and then we all lose. ChucK's original question was not about retrobolting though, rather it was the establishment of an alternate bolt protected first pitch. Personally, I think Bill Coe's musings were pretty spot on. It would be worth scrubbing up the original line and considering it's merits before adding an alternate (which will no doubt become more popular). The new line however, would not be the same thing as retrobolting. The issue of "sandwiching" routes might be more the question here. Certainly the nobility and nature of the original line plays a role in this consideration.

Repo Man (the quote source that is - the first pic was from Brazil and I haven't a clue what's up with that pic Dru posted, somebody's modified repo man pic?)

No, everything is fine, that was a happy moment that the liberal media is just trying to spin.

I wouldn't say you're clogging up cc.com, we've always encouraged folks to host their climbing related images here, but thanks for your concern. The pics look great. A couple suggestions: >How about a TR to go with them? >You have three copies of the Dorado Needle shot, all the same size- might want to delete two of them. >The large size shots are great for beta scoping, but suck for posting in TR's because they're so huge that text runs off the screen. Resize 'em no more than 800 pixels wide and upload them again. Please leave a high-rez version of the Eldo shot in the gallery though, it's got some nice detail. (IE, upload it twice in two different sizes)

Option One: click on the menu item "gallery" above and host 'em here. Option Two: photobucket.com or others offer free photo hosting

internet joke, not a personal tale, but it's a good one.

Undone! So, tell us Carl, did you see a tunnel with a light at the end, and all your friends waiting for you? "Walk into the light, Carl-Anne"

I'm sorry Oly, but with all those graemlins posted in a row like that, I'm going to have to ban you just like I banned Carl. You know, just to be fair.

Done! The final straw was all those graemlins, that sort of thing makes Fern all grouchy.

What'd ya think I was suggesting? Oh, my mistake, I'd assumed you were offering a bribe for me to ban MisterE of course. Who wouldn't do that?

Awww, that's a sweet offer there, but really, I only take bribes to ban yourself. I couldn't drink all the beer that would be offered to ban various and sundry others around here.

6/5/06 - Squeezed in a little climbing last week before the rain shut us down. Prognosis looks good for this week, but I'll be out of town. Ya'll have fun, okay?

Damn Dick, there you going being the voice of reason again!

Promise me a six pack and I'll ban you. It worked for Squid.

City of Rocks, I had a couple snake enounters... Snake in my pack! phew, just a garter snake Snake on the route! Phew, just a gopher snake.

It's certainly the snakiest place I've ever climbed, though the snakes diminish as you move up the canyon (lots at Royal Columns, some at the Bend, and I've never seen any higher up). I've seen them at the top, at the base, and on the trail, but I'd never heard of anyone actually being bitten! Yikes.

And we're not even going to talk about Ivan's recently revealed online surfing tendencies.

Or perhaps a little wider than "hand" as it's described in the guide. Slothrop seemed to have led it handily a month ago or so, maybe he'll chime in. I thought Almo Massacre at City of Rocks was a bit sandbagged, but maybe it was just the combination of overhanging, crimps, and fat&weak that made is seem tough for 10c.

Just because I like my slops, it doesn't mean they have to feed those other pigs so well.... Here's a good article on pork barrel politics from Harper's last year. Long, but worth reading for those inspired.