Greg_W

Uh, dps, a Democratic President sent us to Nam, a Democratic President escalated the war there (meanwhile trying to convince the American people that he was doing just the opposite), but a Republican was in office when we finally got out. So, you might be slightly mistaken.

I decided I needed some of those little mini-donuts this morning (powdered sugar), so I swung by the Shell station whilst out running errands. I was completely unaware of the violent confrontation to come. I got back to my desk and prepared to consume the cute little fried confections. All innocent and white, they didn't appear violent, or riddled with pent up angst. Well, I'll tell you, these little fuckers strike while th iron is hot; that's for damn sure. No sooner had I torn open the plastic covering, and the first little fucker jumps...yes, JUMPS...right off the little cardboard thingy and makes a dive for my femoral artery. Who knew they had such knowledge of human anatomy? Anyway, this bastard was making his way towards my certain doom. Thinking quickly, I grasped that misguided little baked goods freedom fighter and popped him in my mouth. He died well...I didn't hear him make a sound as my mandibles crushed life from his limb-less fried dough body. Whew, I don't think I can work anymore today. Greg_W

THis ought to be no surprise. The Ninth Circuit COA are well-known for their wacky decisions; leading to reversal at the Supreme Court level. I wouldn't start popping corks yet.

Replace it when one of the "oval"-looking openings starts looking like a "U"

Just feeling sporty.

Being an engineer does not make you smart. Here's an example of a stupid engineer. Smart isn't the issue, dipshit, it was dealing with concepts. Pull your head out, and reattach your 'junior shitlicker' badge.

Why think 'conceptually' when we can address REALITY. A half-rope system allows us to reduce rope drag over a single rope system. Period. And, no CBS, as engineers/designers, Rumr and I aren't really "conceptual thinkers".

I totally agree with Rodchester on this one; CBS is way off in his thinking. The more a rope runs in a straight line, the less drag in the system. The more bends or corners it takes, the greater the friction. That's why you sling pro, dude. Don't they teach that shit to you Mounties? Scary if they don't; it's fundamental.

Anything Abbot and Costello. Just saw "Dummy" last night; kinda quirky, but funny.

No. But my g/f was ready to go get hers and hunt the fuckers down.

Thanks, I'll let you know.

jesus christ, is that your shit or what? if so, call up the posse... Not mine.

I e-mailed Customer Support and TommyC called me within 3 hours to chat about the problem. He gave me a couple things to try. I got home and got it to work (just had to shorten the bar more than I thought possible and switch the shim). Foraker called me to give me his insight, as well. I love this climbing community! Thanks guys!!!!

It will be covered by insurance, with a nice, low deductible.

Don't really know where to put this, and I debated posting anything. But, this is a community and so I thought I would. My girlfriend's car was broken into on Capitol Hill on Saturday and my entire rack (Camalots, tcus, aliens, nuts, biners, whole 9 yards really), harness, shoes, etc. were stolen. My g/f also had an Arc'teryx shell (tan/brown, sz: m) and a Feathered Friends Helios parka (blue, sz: m) stolen, among other assorted climbing clothes, etc. All my gear is marked with purple tape. I know it's a longshot, but should anyone be offered items such as these, I'd appreciate a note. I already checked in with Second Ascent and gave them a list. Thanks, Greg_W

Climb: Colchuck Peak-N. E. Couloir Date of Climb: 5/22/2004 Trip Report: Bronco and I headed out to L-worth Friday night and crashed at the trailhead for about 4 hours. We were headed up the trail by 4:00a.m. and reached the lake around 6. After a snack and a fillup on water, we headed up to the base of the couloir. Despite all the weather reports, the skies were looking fine; a few snowflakes fell on occasion, no big deal (yet). We geared up on the moraine and discussed our plan. This is when I realized that I had forgotten sunglasses - the ultimate gaper move. True to my gape-ology, I was forced to wear Bronco's goggles; luckily nobody saw me all day. I led up and over the 'schrund and into the couloir. The 'schrund crossing won't be long for this world; however, there is a bypass via the rock on the left that could go. We simul-climbed about five ropelengths, finding sparse pro exactly where we needed it. I finally set up a belay to take a breather and Bronco joined me. To this point, the snow had been pretty good, with some hard sections that took good tool sticks. Bronco headed out, traversing across the avalanche chute and up into crusty, shitty snow. He was getting good pro and we headed up a left fork off the main couloir (a soon-to-be-discovered error). Eventually, the rope stopped and Bronco had a belay set up. It started snowing after a bit and soon I could no longer see the lake below. The couloir narrowed down and I climbed a few rock moves through sugary snow to a stance that Bronco had stomped out by a slung block. After some discussion, I led out, up and left, looking for a way up and off. So, far we had been making good time, but above me it looked hard. I placed some gear and made a few rock moves and got up into a small pod. The way above looked kind of nasty: slightly blocky and overhanging, beyond my level. I soon realized that we were actually on the Northeast Buttress. I saw another potential way to traverse to the Buttress crest, but it had started snowing like a sumbitch. Given the weather, and our inability to move up, I climbed back to the belay and we decided to bail. That left a bitter taste, as we new we were close to the summit. Two rappels down the steeper stuff, we started downclimbing...and downclimbing...and downclimbing...I stuck to the avy chute as much as I could since the snow was firmer and nothing was coming down. Finally we got to the 'schrund and belayed each other jumping across. A few glissades, displaying prowess in missing rocks and trees, and we were at the lake. Ran into Jens, who had just soloed NBC, stashed our soaked stuff and beat feet down. Good times! Gear Notes: two pins, 6 slings, biners, few medium nuts, 3 medium hexes, 4 screws (used two), two pickets (used 'em), ice tools, and standard gear. Approach Notes: trail snow-free for about 3-3.5 miles. Heading out, the snow was real heavy down to the lake.

Rockfest had DJ's and shelter from the intermittent rain. Beckfest had bratwurst. Rockfest had a cool slideshow by Christian Griffith Beckfest had a ... well, didn't have Christian Rockfest had awesome prizes, some of which I won Beckfest had some cool prizes that I didn't win Overall, it was fun, despite the rain. Thanks to Marshall and crew from Feathered Friends for putting in so much hard work.

I realized that this is a terrible idea.

I had the same experience. I stopped wearing them, just sent them off to goodwill or some such place. I bought a less-stiff pair of Merrells that fit okay and I didn't have a problem. I got to the point where I didn't have a use for such a burly fucking boot; either I was wearing plastics or light hikers. I don't know who would use such a boot, or why. I wonder why I bought the fuckers.

Did someone call me? GOOD LORD, MAN!!! DON'T BLEACH IT!!! I assume you've washed AND dried it already? Handworking a stain with a Spray 'n' Wash type product is always a good thing to do (or straight liquid detergent works). I've used a bristle brush before with luck. A friend recently sacrificed a toothbrush to such an endeavor and it worked. I would start by soaking the offending area in COLD water; just put it in the sink full of water for a few hours, come back and work on it, let it soak some more. Once you've done this and are relatively happy with the results, throw it in the wash one more time.

I'm thinking about taking them to Feathered Friends and swallowing what little pride I have and look like a dumbass and ask for help.

My experience, as well. Are you talking about the bar that connects the heel and toe pieces?

They must be, I bought them 2 years ago. It can't be as fucking difficult as it appeared last night.

I did both of those things and it didn't seem to help. I'll try again tonight.

Reports I saw said, "a shower or two". That's spring in L-worth; the rock dries fairly quickly and easier routes can be climbed wet.