ivan

just got back from the south side this morning and found the conditions a good deal better...still, things didn't get too firm until around 3 a.m. and i doubt that'll last long...one again, on a random weekday, i passed 30 people on their way up at 5 a.m. doesn't anybody have to work other than me? fuck, now to find a way to maintain coherence for the next 8 hours...

maybe if i knew how to ski....

"Cho Oyu is the world’s 6th highest mountain and second most summited 8000m peak behind Everest. It is known for being one of the easiest 8000ers and has the lowest summit/fatality ratio of all 14, 8000m peaks. " if this story is true, wonder if that ratio will remain so friendly?

any big slots open out on the nisqually yet? thinking of climbing the kautz this weekend as part of denali training, and we want to practice hauling a sled out of a big crack (or was that practice smoking a lot of big crack while sitting on a sled?) sometime soon

intriguing...where be your humble demense?

like my mommy instructed me, i put things back where i find them

ehhh??? my head still rings from the ghetto ass safety meeting afterwards...haven't done shit like that since highschool...think pete's a bad influence on my (ah, but maybe i souldn't be such a pushover)

anybody of a desire to rock masturbate in the desert tomorrow and need a partner? (er...for climbing, that is, i figure if you own a digital wristwatch yer probably smart enough to jerk yer own damn self off) can just do saturday, but can drive yadda, yadda, yadda

thinking....hard....

perhaps you took feeding the cats a bit too literally? actually she'll be chill'n in the state of the virginia queen, by a beach w/ an ocean you can actually swim in while i freeze in the big fridge

if you feel like feeding my cats while i'm in alaska for a month, promise not to rape my next door neighbors' kids, and don't mind driving a bit from vancouver, i'll give you a whole damn house fo' free...

colonel cracker's n' general jackass' next big adventure

someone's in charge??? i thought we were all fascist anarachists (insert greamlin of swaztika wearing, eugene-cop beating smiley face)

take the newbie up the cooper spur! ian will gladly tag along...seriously, if it was good enough for the mazama's founding climb, than it's good enough for you

vaya con dios y mi perro's madre tambien ...i won't be too far behind (er... of su madre)

climbanut (why can't i get "bustanut" oughta my head?)...don't forget to get drunk at the r&r w/ everyone before ye leave...i'm now returning home to make up for all the sleep i lost last night, to get my drinking legs under me, so ta speak

they musta been heading up the s. side last night too...passed a humongafuckload of folks all wearing the same packs carrying the same 10 tons of hi-tech gadgets on my way down this morning...none of them planning on going to work today either...damn, they can't even work right?

climbed the s. side this past night....the track is pretty fast at the moment, 4 hours to summit...i'd expect, barring major snow over the next few days, the snow should be nice and compacted....crap raining down on you will always be a problem, especially if it's windy as all hell...got pelted several times tonight above the 'schrund (not so pleasant at the summit, around 15 degrees w/ 40 mph winds)...wear a helmet and be a man!

so desey, why did u bail? just b/c of soft snow on the sandy? no judgements here, last time i was up at illumination the snow was balls deep, probably was worse down on the reid....still, seems like you'd a figured that out by the time you hit the gap...how far up the route did you go?

anybody feel like climbing hood wednsday (night, that is) and showing up to p-club exceptionally glassy eyed?

i am deeply hurt...the short-bus folk always had that mysterious ability over me to actually make me give a fuck what some total stranger thought

i vote for the r&r...last time we were there only a few'a you's fucker's showed, but folks were rioting out in the street, which was pretty sweet...think we made it over to winter's for a nightcap after that, even better...wasn't that the evening mtnhigh just up and fucking dissappeared out of the blue?

so that's it? 3 measly responses? i thought we had a million badass climbers around here...none a you fools done any of these routes? makes sense, i reckon...too much good out here in the nw to bother going outside hey, a real adventure!

june 21 is the long awaited flight...probably won't bring ascenders 'cuz i'm a cheap bastard and don't own a pair(however, school year is comign to an end soon so perhaps i can sell some grades and raise the cash...ah, free enterprise)...my partner now seems keen on the 70 meter solution....as he is willing to foot the bill for it all, how can i complain?