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ivan

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Everything posted by ivan

  1. Dude, that's a pretty low blow by any standard. Give me a break. It's more a matter of what kind of climbing. If you mean I'm not for new routes that are more or less wholly dependent on mass quantities of fixed pro - you're right, I'm not for that kind of climbing anywhere on Beacon. If you're talking judicious use of fixed pro then, especially on the north face, I'm all for it. sounds like double-talk to me - you're for it, but only under conditions that make it impossible, so really you're not for it yes, i was deadset on getting it ground to summit, and w/ as little bolting as required - if you'd at least rap the damn route you'd understand what you're talking about. shit, i might even be willing to go w/ you. watchu doing this weekend? of course you can't go ground to summit in typical winter conditions on the n side without bolts - that's why it hadn't happened until the closures started.
  2. i don't give a shit how much it costs, but i will vote for any gubmint that wants to put a bullet-train between pdx n' yosemite (assuming it comes w/ a smoking section)
  3. i missed it - did somebody cape somebody again?
  4. another entry in the vaunted "all taint, all the time" climbing photo award
  5. rapping into big ledge?
  6. Oh, do tell - if there is more to 'the story' that makes the topo and fixed pro count somehow not discussion-worthy I'd sure love to hear exactly what that is. the reality of that side of the rock is that, in the conditions that dominate the closure-season, there are no ground to summit options w/o the use of fixed gear like the topo shows - it simply isn't the south side over there and to apply the same ethics is silly it appears that you'e of the opinion then that climbing simply shouldn't happen ANYWHERE at beacon during the closure?
  7. would do that gladly - p1's probably the hardest, p2 not so hard just scary to take a fall on the available gear and b/c of the many steps you can deck on - i've freed most of it from there up, except the first part of p5, which also has scary gear (might look like a phat pin on the topo but they're tiiiiiny )
  8. ding. Ah, yes. Of course... But the real mystery still remains. Who scored Ken's bran new #5 C4 a couple summers ago that was stuck on on the section above the crux? Maybe it was a number 4? it was a c4 #5 i recall - a pitch above that picture though - some rain-man type no doubt, between us we spent at least an hour fucking w/ it.
  9. (in the fog on mt redoubt, after scrambling up a step near the summit) ivan: you want me to throw down the rope? josh: uhhhhh...i can't see...how hard is it? ivan: i dunno - not bad i guess - if you fall though you WILL die josh: throw me the rope!
  10. lately i've discovered i'm completly incapable of reading you, so i just ordered myself one of these sweet babies to assist me in answering the question that occurs to me for each of your posts: is pink being a dickhead?
  11. ding.
  12. Dastardly Crack? If not DC, then Jensen's? nope, think a climb that geoff and i could actually free in reasonable style we're already up a pitch as a hint, and not everyone belays from where i am
  13. notice any similarities? anyone buellar, buellar, buellar hate to break your heart pink, but those 2 pics ain't the same climb in your pic, joe's up and right of where i am in my pic - where i am in my pic is where i was when cleaning and trying to go in joe's direction, which i abandoned after it looked like i'd need bolts, which i wanted to put off as long as possible instead, my pitch traveres strait left - that pic shows the area kenny fell as well...
  14. shot in the head by a loweball, then, all slap-happy, blowing out 2 pieces at the start of silver crowe or whatever the fuck it was - here hanging in space next to geoff at the top of the 1st pitch of pipeline
  15. "They never grow up, lady. They just get tubby"
  16. did you just see a real bright light?
  17. YOu know what's weird? Politically, you and I are basically the same. Nitrox, FW, et.al. disagree with me just as much as you. And yet, they don't call me a whiny bitch. Why do you think taht is? b/c you look kinda like jesus and no one wants to make that kinda enemy?
  18. bears?
  19. if aliens read this thread i fear they might skip right on by ourneck of the woods the lack of a decent, well funded spaceport might be part of their consideration as well...
  20. its a highball bouldering problem where you can cut left off the corner, just above that little chimney, to get to the land of the little people - if i can figure out how to access and clean it, there's a silly cool handcrack w/ skeeery exposure at the very end
  21. i got called out as a weak-ass clibmer though so that....that...that means it's honest. dammit.
  22. hey, that hurts! actually one of them is takes fist which is a taaaad harder
  23. does this even have a name?
  24. bluebird
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