Alpinfox

Alum crampons worked great for me on Liberty Ridge a while back (not icy though) and Jim Nelson (www.promountainsports.com) climbs shizzle like this in his:

One of my partners climbed there a bunch before moving out here and has told me some stories about some very taxing "5.9" climbs there. A strict linear order is probably unattainable, so how about rough groupings: Stiff: Seneca, WV Index, WA Joshua Tree, CA Squamish, BC About right: Leavenworth, WA Smith Rock, OR Soft: Vantage, WA Exit32/38, WA Red Rocks, NV

I think I fixed it... try now.

I have. I'm having my best season yet! Lots of alpine rock, a bit of mountaineering, it's been grand.

Yup. I clearly stated that I was speculating about that beta up to treeline, but that from my observations of Mt. Tom last week, it would be straightforward above there. He/she didn't get anything more useful from anyone else. Here is an example of my first-hand beta (Olympus) And another (Liberty Ridge) Passing information along would only be lame if I claimed I had checked it all out when I hadn't. Giving someone a URL is NOT irresponsible nor is speculating about a climb/route (as long as I clearly state I'm speculating). The person reviewing the beta must then decide for themselves if it's worth trusting. Caveat Emptor

In addition to providing links to and quotes of beta (passing along second hand beta), I have written many TRs and answered questions about lots of routes including (most recently) Liberty Ridge and Mt. Olympus. When I quote guidebooks or websites, I always reveal my source and say whether I have personally done the route. There is nothing wrong with that. You (GregW) just quoted MattP's website, just like I did. Dryad said she had never been to Darrington and was interested in checking it out. I also have never been there and am interested in checking it out and listed the moderate climbs I'm interested in, along with some beta and sources that she might not have been aware of. I don't get you guys...

Hey FistSucker, I found a team picture. Let us all know which one is you:

Hey GregW, First of all, I didn't mention Smoot, or his topos, the website I quoted did. And furthermore, it mentioned that they weren't very good. Second, why shouldn't I "comment" about Darrington if I've never been there? I guess its really stupid of me to say such uninformed and clueless things as "Dreamer looks awesome!" Yeah, I really fucked up there. You and FencePoleSitter are pricks who enjoy being antagonistic. (though I do appreciate the beta you provided)

Fruity pink boy in front falls down, Lance veers off road to avoid him. Then: Option A) Lance stops, gets off bike, carries bike back to spot where he went off road, gets on bike, starts pedaling, thereby "completing entire course" Option B) Lance continues through field, gets back on road, starts pedaling, doesn't "complete entire course" Option A takes a lot more time Mr. Walmart. So you are a "competative cyclist"? Very impressive... So you probably wear those fruity tights and team jerseys and other obnoxious shit when you are pedaling on the Burke? I love passing those jackasses on my rusty, squeaky, piece of shit, Goodwill bike while wearing my flip-flops. Go Lance!

I have also never been to either. (FOR SHAME!) From: http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/longmoderates.htm Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running What It Is:Silent Running is a 7-pitch classic steep granite slab climb on Three O'Clock Rock. What Can I Expect:Classic, casual climbing on a very well-protected route, recently retro-bolted, up to 5.9. Where Its At:Its at Three O'Clock Rock, a large granite dome South of Darrington, WA, about an hour and a half drive North and a little East of Seattle. What You Need:Quickdraws and one or two small TCUs for good measure. Season:March through October. More Information:Both Jim Nelson and Jeff Smoot cover this route in their guidebooks. Jim Nelson's pictures are mislabeled, but his topos are correct. Smoots topos are not as detailed, but once on route you wont need topos. Others: The first tooth on Comb Buttress has a two-pitch bolted 5.8. Dreamer looks awesome! ten-pitch 5.9! MattP's website has lots of great beta: http://www.seanet.com/~mattp/Darr/ I'm interested in heading out there this weekend.

"Well, you might live longer, but at least I'll die with a full rack." -Craig Smith, arguing about rappel anchors with his partner who wanted to leave another stopper. Though I don't know who Craig Smith is... ahhhh Gooogle, where would I be without thee.

MOG = Mother Of all Gasguzzlers?

I thought of this question while reading another thread about an "Indexish" 5.9 at Squamish. I'd be interested in hearing where various climbing areas fall on the sandbag scale. Here is my pathetic attempt to start a scale, most sandbags to least. Please edit/adjust/comment Index, WA Squamish, BC Leavenworth, WA Smith Rock, OR Exit32/38, WA Red Rocks, NV Obviously this is going to be difficult because of sport vs. trad, new climbs vs. old, etc... but let's see what happens.

I don't sign registers and don't get permits. Therefore, no offensive paper in my box.

Yeah, but he would have lost even more time if he had to "complete the entire course". In this case, his cutting the corner was certainly advantageous. Don't get me wrong, I don't think he should be disqualified, but he did cut the corner. Go Lance.

It's amazing how these forums appear and disappear... I guess I don't normally spend enough time on here to notice, but today I was quick enough to see Trask's Minx fantasy masturbatory gibberish before it got pulled as well as the short-lived, but oh-so-funny TRASK SUCKS ASS FORUM. I gotta spend less time climbing and more time on here.

Are you commited to the Tom Creek approach? Most people approach via snow dome (blue glacier rt) I think... However, I think there is/was a trail up the Tom Creek Valley from the Hoh River Trail. I've never been on it, but it is mentioned in my "Climbers Guide to the Olympic Mountains" (1979 edition). Once you got to tree line it would be a piece of cake from there. Sorry, I don't have any worthwhile beta, just off-the-cuff speculation and half-baked ideas. Please report your findings here for the advancement of scholarship and all that shizzle...

What is a ".ram" file? Anyone wanna describe the video cuz I ain't downloadin' real player or any of that nonsense if that is what is required.

Maybe with the popularization/legitimization of climbing since 1970, the Wedgewood neighbors wouldn't see boulderers as such a nuisance now? I promise to be quiet as a I plummet off the sloper.... After all, people put up with noise from little league games and we all know what a bunch of inbred, cretin, goat-fuckers those baseball players are. It's time for a revolution! Let's call the Access Fund! FREE THE WEDGEWOOD BOULDER! p.s. I still haven't made the long 10 block trek to see the damn thing. I'll rustle up the bivy gear and some powerbars for a midnight assault sometime soon.

flying Yeah, how much is gas/hr flying? I'm a poor unemployed dirtbag climber so any of you rich pilots out there that want some company, let me know. I gotta save my money for beer. C'mon, I'll regail you with entertaining stories about my climbing misadventures, like the time I got a sweet handjam and then got bit by a hiding in the crack. (That's a free one, next one'll cost ya).

Phil, I remember seeing those things up around Mt. T. You didn't climb that chosspile did you? My second took a fall on the W. ridge due to a broken hold which pulled me through a tree and off my belay stance. Scraped/bruised me up pretty good and taught me to keep my toprope belay tight or to belay off the anchor. Then on rapping the descent, a rock hit my partner in the arm and she couldn't feel it for two days... Anyway, I hope you had a better outing on it than I did.

I was backcountry skiing in Alaska once and skied over a ptarmagin that was nestled down into the snow... Felt a weird bump, and then this ptarmagin flew up. Seemed unhurt.

When I was up there on July 4th weekend there were lots of youngsters out on the highway trying to thumb rides very late at night. 2am? Is that normal? Some of them were young vixenish females... Trask would have had a field day. Scandalous.

i'm sorry but you must have summited a glaciated peak to become a member of our club Thielsen, 3 Fingered Jack, and Broken Top are "Glaciated" peaks? Hmm....

sighting your = belonging to you proper usage = Is this your spray? you're = a contraction of "you" and "are" You're spraying at me. Thanks. -Grammar Police