Gary_Yngve

We lazily slept in late on Sunday (got up at 8 AM) and got back to the cars in the early afternoon. We saw your car parked on our drive out and we considered stopping to leave a note, but we were too lazy.

Whoops, hope I didn't mislead anyone... we hiked up to Colchuck Lake Friday evening, camping there, and camped at Asgard Pass Saturday night. We decided to make the trip comfortable as opposed to yet another "long day." We had enough supplies to last us through Monday (we planned to spend another day playing around up there), but we came back Sunday because the snow was soft, the skies were cloudy, one of us had a cold, and we felt that the trip was already a success having summited Prusik.

Three of us climbed the West Ridge of Prusik on Saturday. The route was in great shape -- snow-free except for a few ledges on the north face. We hauled boots and ice axes up, which were very useful on the 40-degree snow for the traverse back to the pass. We used two 60m rappels to get down, with the first being the full ropelength. We came in and out through Asgard Pass. Colchuck Lake is rapidly melting out, though the lakes in the upper basin are frozen solid. Flotation was nice to have in the upper basin. Saw two folks on Triple Cs... an avy came down the first couloir after they had passed it. Heard later that they bailed because of the unstable snow. Saw/heard lots of other avys...

When we did Sloan last year, we approached from Bedal Creek instead... worked quite well, and no stream crossing neessary.

My problem is the reason why I'm angry is that I have to work instead of climb. (I've been stuck in the city for the four past weekends , mostly due to my evil advisor )

"Angelo was walking towards the coat room today, when he clipped one of the classroom tables with his hip. Feeling slighted, he cursed at the table and swung his leg to kick the corner he'd bumped into. He missed the table leg by inches and sent his foot smashing into the underside of the table. He screamed and bent down to grab his toes, banging his head against the topside of the table. At this point Angelo started crying, fell on his butt, and started trying to take his shoe off. He leaned forward to untie his shoe and hit his forehead against the edge of the table. After this he just curled up into a ball. I have never seen a tard lose a fight with an inanimate object quite as badly as this. "

When we did the Tree Route, we did three more pitches on the upper buttress. They were roughly the same difficulty as the earlier pitches.

Or Trask's ass.

Maybe they got different units... measuring the Scarpas in pairs and the Koflachs by individual shoes.

I prefer this version of the chart:

I know! I know! Somewhere where there are cams for sale!

Exit 32 was quite fun the other day. We had the place completely to ourselves. Many of the routes can be set up with top ropes as well. The rock was a little wet, but that made things more fun! Mmmm... fisting wet cracks... We also got a blank citation for not leaving the parking lot in time, and that they graciously left the gate unlocked (we left at 9:30, though the sign said open until 10:00). Whatev.

I heard there's a new edition of FotH in the works.

I'll be doing my one-minute steak.

When I stopped by today, FF had Jim's new edition, but REI did not. However, not any of: University Bookstore UVillage Barnes and Noble REI Feathered Friends Mountaineers Bookstore had the Falcon Self-Rescue book. Bastards. I wasted an entire afternoon hunting for the book before ordering it online and paying more than the cost of the book itself for expedited shipping.

Some caveats with the 6mm perlon: 1) It tangles like hell. 2) Because it's static, you really want about 210 ft 3) Be careful with abrasion, etc. because it's so thin

Really? Wow. I was up there (Colchuck and Enchantments) in early June last year and the rangers told me that I did not need an overnight permit. (Or maybe I just needed the self-issued one at the trailhead because they weren't doing quotas yet?)

And in season for Mountaineers, who will try their best not to pour down cliffs. Intermediate Rock 2 is this weekend, so expect roughly half the class the first day and the other half the second day spread around on 5.4-5.6ish multipitch climbs. We won't be on single-pitch stuff, and we won't be on hard stuff, and we'll be starting pretty early in the morning, so hopefully most of you won't notice.

top 100 peaks

Trask's

Anyone know what's up with that? Saturday they didn't plow it until 10 AM, and we had to sit in the car and wait.

Grrrr... just turned down a ski trip for this weekend because I have to work. Fuck, I worked through Xmas. I worked through New Years. He had a cow when I told him Friday that I had unmovable prior plans for Saturday. I haven't been to the mountains since Dec 7. I add more and more features, just as he tells me, and the results still suck. This bullshit is driving me insane.

I'm ignorant... what state parks are of interest to climbers? The only one that I recognized was Peshatin. http://www.parks.wa.gov/alpha.asp

"Maybe you can sign up for keeping track of the conditions around that belay check route? Are the trails up Pilchuck and Mt. Si in these days?" Yeah, the cougars are hibernating.

Re EDK: EDK tests