Juan

Hey: I remember you tip-toeing out there. We felt really stupid not having any pro, and would have climbed it w/o pro since we were there, but it was really nice to have some stuff for that first exposed icy section. Recall that we had at least one aluminum-headed axe too. Duh. I agree that it looks really different this year. The pictures I have are not digital and I don't know how to scan them. If you have a mailing address I could make some copies if you want. I don't know if you guys are really visible or not, but it would show what you climbed when you climbed it, which has some value. Let's take this off line and you can send me your address. I'm at jsharp@windermere.com. Cheers, John

So true. Good articles. Thanks for this stuff Lowell. John

Of course, they say it will rain into the weekend . . . If the N.E. Butt. looks like a no go because of the difficulty of getting onto and across the glacier, consider the N.W. Butt. III 5.5; see Fred's description. Good route, and no need for a carryover! John Sharp

Hey Pat: That confirms what I thought, and echoes Fred's description. It is a great route for sure, whatever the angle. Top 20 for me I think. I wish I had been using slide film on that one, but did get some good prints. Glad you OR guys are getting up to taste some of our alpine candy. Cheers, John

I think we placed (or rather borrowed) two screws and two pickets. Other than those four placements down low, no pro. We didn't belay anything -- just running belays through those placements, then roped simul-climbing. The ice at the bottom was interesting with aluminum crampons. So, is it steeper than 40 degrees? Sharp

Hey gnibmilc: Were you with the three guys on a Mountaineers trip? Bob Davis and I climbed it in early or mid-Aug. 1998, I think. We ran into four Mountaineers and ended up joining ropes on the rappels over the ridge, and after freeing the stuck ropes for the group, they (you?) were kind enough to let us use some of your snow and ice pro on the face. We had relied on Jim Nelson's statement in Vol. I that the snow face was only 40 degrees, and stupidly brought no pickets or screws. Fred says 50 degrees and bring screws, but we went with Jim on that one. I later encouraged Jim to change his description to reflect the fact that I think it is steeper, but can't remember if he did so in Vol. I, 2nd ed. Maybe Bob and I were just being chickens. What do others think? Anyway, if that was your group, thanks again. That was a fun trip. I got some good pictures. As for the debate on global warming, I can't say any of this any better than Lowell. Like him, I worry about the kids. I have three little boys, and in so many ways, worry about the world they will inherit and pass to their kids and grandkids and so on. I'm not a scientist (though I could play one on t.v.), but have read some convincing (to me) materials suggesting that global warming is happening, and happening fast, and we are indeed contributing. Time will tell. Cheers all, Sharp

Is this route the same as Irene's Arete? I looked up E. Ridge in the Teton Classic book last night and didn't see it. What a sad situation, but as we all know the line between life and serious injury or death is so fine with this sport. We've seen it too many times this year already. Condolences, of course. Sharp

But jakowski (sorry I can't pronounce your name), what if someone was more critically injured without a helmet than they would have been had they been wearing one, and the resultingly more significant injuries placed the rescuers in greater danger due to the increased time and complexity involved in the extraction? Would it be fair for a rescuer to call the injured climber's decision to go sans helmet into question? How about that rescuers wife and kids and family? You see, you can look at climbing as a series of personal choices, and many people on this site choose to do so. But when you are hurt, or when you are helping others who are hurt, or even when you are just plain overdue, it is no longer all about you. To my way of thinking, once we engage in an inherently dangerous sport, we should do everyone who could be affected by an accident right by stacking the odds in our favor. The thought that someone can't pull a bouldering move because their helmet weighs them down is truly the stupidist idea I've heard. Do they really think that? I know Chase thinks boulderers should wear helmets, and though I have never bouldered, I have to agree. Then again, maybe in a Darwinian sense we should encourage some of these kids to go without a brainbucket. Sharp

If what you report is true, he really is an asshole. Tell him to beat some of Colin's times on routes that require, for example, his hands. Do you suppose he knows how to do that stuff as fast? Juan

J: You just go ahead thinking the way you're thinking. Maybe try doing some reading along the way, however, and see if the experts (which I am not) can persuade you. Again, I suggest you read the latest issue of National Geographic, for starters. Whether it is a normal climactic change that is naturally in fast motion, or one that we are speeding up by our actions and inactions, or both, it is still not good for life here on earth, and I am by no means talking about its impact on climbing alone. I've been doing it for too long to assign climbing such great significance. Juan

I can't read this. Did you go faster than Miles Smart a few years back when he soloed it in just over 5 hours car-to-car? Sharp

Well jmace, there sure are a lot of prominent scientists world-wide who think there's more to this than a couple of hot summers. I agree with Lowell that getting down to bare ice, as is the case in so many places now, suggests a large-scale problem. If you've been following what is going on in the Alps, the Tetons, the Andes, etc., you might think there is more to this. I really hope it's not true, but fear that the dire predictions may be accurate. Check out the latest issue of National Geographic -- feature article called "Global Warning." Excellent but terrifying. John Sharp

I'm in dberdinka's camp here. Their really is no good reason not to wear a helmet when rock climbing. I even wear one on slab routes, though I'm pictured in Nelson's Vol. II without one at Darrington and Static Point. I really can't remember why, except on the Darrington day, it was over 100 degrees. I don't wear one on snow walk-ups unless meteor activity is predicted, but do wear one on any snow or alpine ice route with climbing at or over about 40 degrees (where a fall may be hard to arrest). All it takes is one pebble hitting you on the head or top of the shoulder to realize how much it hurts. Another reason I like helmets is because about twice a year -- without fail -- I will stand up on an alpine route and bang my head hard against a feature that I didn't see above me. This is klutzy stuff that comes with being old and ungraceful. I'm always glad for the helmet in those instances! Last Oct. on Chiwawa my partner took off his helmet on the summit ridge, and walked about 15 ft. before banging his forehead into a protruding rock. It bled a little and I flipped him shit as his helmet would have prevented the cut. Glad these Leavenworth fellows were well taken care up. John Sharp

Isn't there a route called "Hot Cherry Bendover." In Squamish? Erik Snyder: You call but then hang up. Are we ever going to see you again? Sharp

Those Nader Raiders have to be fast because if they hang around, someone will invariably ask them to leave. Or worse, they'll ask them for Ralph's stances on the major issues. Do you think Ralph had the shit kicked out of him on the palygrounds as kid or what? Sharp

What are you going to do Ray? And what did you think of the latest Patagoochie ad featuring Fred at the back of the latest R&I? Will belay for food. Too funny. Sharp

As always, you've got the beta. I've only been down the E. Ledges (twice) but would rather not escort the Mrs. down that way if possible. I've never been up the W. Ridge (nor has Kirsten), but obviously it must be done at some point in life. Cheers, John Sharp

The snow ridge on Eldo looks real grey now in places. As in alpine ice. It even has a crack or two. So yeah, I think you'll need your axe. Maybe even, God forbid, some pickets or screws if your partners are new to this game. And the glacier itself is heavily melted and grey in many places. Even Sahale looks icy, though certainly doable. Be safe; stay dry. Sharp

Seriously? That doesn't sound bad. I thought someone said doing it this way is the "crux." Have you done it late in the year -- like late Sept.-Oct.? Thanks a ton, John

Guys: In looking across the valley yesterday, I would think the glacier leading to the couloir is toast, and I'd expect moats. My wife wants to climb the W. Ridge and we have a weekend set aside -- at the end of Sept. My gut tells me to wait until next year for this one, but can anyone elaborate on the alternate left-side route to the ridge, as well as getting back down? I have read the guide books, but would love first-hand beta. Thanks very much, Sharp

I hear you Lowell. I was up at Cascade Pass today on the ridge between Mix Up and Tripletts. It is surreal how small the glaciers are right now, all the way from Eldo to the snowfields visible on Sahale and Buckner, to Pelton, Cache, J'Berg, etc. If this keeps up, we simply won't have some of these glaciers for very many more years. Grey alpine ice is primarily what remains, and it is only the end of August. We have a serious global problem on our collective hands. John Sharp

Dustin: Pretty good time for a right winger! My nephew and a friend of his, both avowed Democrats, did a trip three summers ago that went like this: Leave Stuart Lake trailhead at midnight, hike to and climb the Serpentine Arete, then proceed to and climb the W. Ridge of Prusik, then hike out Snow Lake trail to the parking lot. Total time, trailhead-to-trailhead: 17 hrs. I'll bet this could be done more quickly if the Enchantments were logged, but so far the Administration hasn't been able to push that one through. Maybe some day. Just kidding of course. Sounds like you had a super day. Juan

Good job, ChucK. But who is the scraggly dude inhaling gel? Is that you or Jeff? God, that's an ugly sight. Sounds like classic Cascades mountaineering. Sharp

Teleman: regarding the amount of climbing I did with each child, I would say that I was ramping up in difficulty/danger after our first son was born in 1996. In 1997-2002 I was really trying to push myself, and my wife was often with me. Mind you, I have never been a particularly good climber, and so we're talking rock up to 5.10 (mostly slab at that level) and alpine routes no harder than things like Forbidden E. and N. Ridges, J'Berg N.E. Butt, Ice Cliff Glacier, Shuksan N. Face, Goode N.W. Butt., Chair Peak N. Face, Tooth N.E. Slab, etc. As far as volume, I get in about 15 days per year and have done so all along. After our second and third sons were born (2000 and 2003), I found two things: (1) it is harder to justify quite as much climbing time to my wife because having all three kids for a day or weekend is a lot of work; and (2) I think much more about the impact to them and Kirsten if something happens to me in the mountains as a result of my selfish hobby. Kirsten still climbs too, and has done some pretty stout stuff for a Bellevue housewife (Canary, Outer Space, Maude N. Face in a day, Stuart W. Ridge in a day, etc.), so I have to factor that into the equation. We are fairly careful when roped together. I think about this issue every day, and as a result, am doing things like backing off the E. Ridge of J'Berg this summer, even though I descended it in 1999. I'm either getting smarter about exposure, bad rock, etc., or my balls are shrinking, or both. I would also say this is an evolutionary process. I honestly don't know where it will end up, but I do know the routes/peaks I still want to do. The hardest ones in this country are things like Buckner N. Face and Triumph N.E. Ridge, for example. I have scrubbed notions of Big Four in winter, Index, Nooksack Tower, Slesse, etc. I don't know if that helps or not. I suspect as your child grows older and begins to ask you questions about climbing and skiing, you will think more about the impact of your loss than you will with an infant. That certainly happened in my case. Finally, regarding the cost of life insurance, I pay $55 per month for 500K in coverage on a 5-year term contract. That is probably top dollar because it is N.Y. Life. Does this help? Cheers, and congratulations, John Sharp

I've got three young kids and have been climbing for 19 years and have a term policy with NY Life. It costs more than it would if I only played golf or tennis or some other God awful waste of time and money. But it's not prohibitive. I think they charge you about as much in additional premiums if you are a cigarette smoker. Be aware that if you get a certain size of policy (500K in the case of NY Life), you will have to undergo a thorough physical including blood and urine testing, if you catch my drift. I was caught unaware by this little detail, but managed to get by . . . . Good luck -- and good idea. Call if you need an agent referral. John Sharp