jordop

.

Who was the guy who wrote that bit a few years ago about being on some Alp sketch fest and yelling down to his belayer, "I'd kill for a piece" and the belayer thinking he said "pizza"?

Kittens? Mittens? Pie? Now the true nature of that ditty comes out

Yeah, like the Grade I heli approach for Slesse which might shave you an hour or two. Better bring beer for everybody else

G-spotter = Sprayshaw I like the affected Euro dropping of the indefinite artcile "an", which is more Russo than "Andorran"

I still like the roman numeral NCCS grading as it clearly defines for me what can be accomplished in a day and encapsulates time much more succinctly than does the "new" French system. The D+/TD- zone seems problematic as it could include a six pitch 10b pure rock route on Grainger or a slightly mixed, more alpine route on Joffre or Slesse. Retreat for me is more easily had on "hard rock" features and thus the idea of "commitment" is still ellusive. Also interesting to note Squamish guides haven't included NCSS grades since Smaill's guide, even thought Sean Easton applied a VI grade in the CAJ for Skullfuck and others continue to refer to Angels Crest as IV, etc., etc. Thus we are to take it that even though approach should not be taken into account and roadside and backcountry routes of similar scope should recieve the same rating, the "alpine" nature seems to be a prerequisite at least in the PNW (still used in Yosem obviously). An imperfect but nevertheless implicitly understood system

.

I always thought the Sierra escaped logging becuase it was unprofitable; the pines have a relatively long regeneration period and there is significant forest fire danger That would really suck

It's surfing weather for the rest of the week snowline at 4000' in Squamish, melting fast

I've got a pair of these but never seem to wear them. They're a bitch to get on when they're wet and its cold and they aren't really that warm below freezing. They're great for crabbing though My BD dryskin gloves seem a lot warmer and cushier in the crap weather. They used to be everywhere in Vancouver 5 years ago. I bet Taiga or 3 Vietnam Vets still sell them along with all the other useless crap they have like $200 Eastern Bloc mtneering boots.

It was balmy this afternnon, but still kinda wet. Should be dry by weekend.

You should go climb this couloir and after you do tell me where it is cause I have no fucking clue where I was when I took it

.

Still four months for skiing

.

MTN H transition will pill and snag, drive you nuts because there are no stretch areas and it's a bitch to get over your head and you will feel like a hothouse tomato. The Zip T was offered to me as a superprodeal for about $40 and I couldn't justify it. MEC version is cheaper if you really want one.

http://www.ctv.ca/servlet/ArticleNews/story/CTVNews/1044137693020_9///?hub=TopStories

No runouts either

Taken from the road maybe 1/2 way between Coney Island (beach) and Paleface creek. From the photo of Doug with Foley in the background, I would suggest that maybe you would have to have been more on the latter feature you suggested (more NE than N) for Foley to show up: If you were on the right skyline in my photo, then Cope would be above Doug? Dunno?

All yours! Take some bolts, looks kinda slabby/crumbly maybe? I'll buy you guys beers if you do that one!

Yes, Webb, digestive=crap. Syndactyl=bad pun on "webbed" which side of webb is it, it does not look like the north side????????? NE side from Chilliwack Ocean Road. Where does the DS go?

Could only be Urquhart

Yes, Webb, digestive=crap. Syndactyl=bad pun on "webbed"

aye, north side of Grainger from Trio. For some reason the rock is totally scruffy and dirty on this side. Not that there's anything big there though. Trio might be able to be used as access to that peak with the steep west face west of Grainger though? Aretes I might have to leave till I scramble them in the summer. Nasty one hour approach. I'm surprised you're not getting the "crap" references for the third. Think about certain nomenclature you've applied to a few peaks here.

Dru: #1: This is a side of a classic climb you never see. You've been atop it: #2 Chilliwack Batholith in a weird place: #3 syndactyl crap