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jordop

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  1. jordop

    Devils Thumb

    from adn.com Troopers call off search for Canadian climbers DEVILS THUMB: Two men have been missing for nearly a week. Daily News staff (Published: April 23, 2003) Alaska State Troopers have called off the search for two Canadian climbers who have been missing on the remote Devils Thumb for almost a week, trooper Chris Umbs said Tuesday from Petersburg. Intermittent searches since Saturday have turned up no sign of Guy Edwards and John Millar, Umbs said. Troopers have not ruled out the possibility that Edwards, 30, and Millar, 24, are hunkered down for safety somewhere. Their base camp about a mile from the mountain is largely intact and unoccupied, Umbs said. A helicopter pilot indicated that avalanches have occurred in the area, he said. Edwards and Millar were last seen by a third climber in their party about 2 a.m. on April 14 as they were ascending the 9,077-foot peak on the Alaska-Canada border about 30 miles northeast of Petersburg. They had taken about four to five days' food and gear on April 13 when they departed the team's base camp intending to complete the first ascent of the north face. The third member of their team, Kai M. Hirvornen of Vancouver, British Columbia, remained in camp. Weather was poor in the days that followed, Umbs said. When the climbers did not return in time, Hirvornen skied out alone about 20 miles to summon help on Friday. Searchers were hampered over the weekend and Monday by continuing poor weather, but a helicopter pilot with Hirvornen aboard managed to get through clouds occasionally to search the mountain. They last searched for about four hours Monday evening, Umbs said. The search was indefinitely suspended at 10 a.m. Tuesday, he said. Neither Hirvornen nor the pilot for Temsco helicopters, Stephen Obrocta, returned messages. Edwards, Millar and Hirvornen are experienced climbers. Edwards has climbed successfully in major mountain ranges around the world, according to the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival.
  2. Friends and I have often threatened to ski the Lions, meaning the south face of the west peak, and I'm sure it's been done. Can't really tell from the photo though. If it is the s face of the w Lion, then I'd say 70* is about right. The se face of the shoulder to the south would be about the same. But the snow bowl beneath the lions is probably only about 45* at its top.
  3. 90 4runner. Rust, cracked ball joints, no brakes, cracked exhaust manifold, non functioning rear window/tailgate. Ahhh, the joys of 4WD inflated values Still, $4000 less than a toyoota truck
  4. jordop

    Devils Thumb

    A (poorly) scanned photo of the N face. From Jim Haberl's Risking Adventure. Just reread the Thumb chapter in Krakauer's Into the Wild: "the ugly, avalanche-swept lower half of the face."
  5. jordop

    Devils Thumb

    HOLY SHIT!!!!!!!!!!!! NO WAY!!!!!!! Umm, if I remember from Guy's slide show two years back on "the traverse" and his mention of the unclimbed north face, and his pic of it, it doesn't seem like a typical avy slope. More like veritcal ice. Maybe a serac fall or something?
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  7. Check out the pics at: http://www.canada.com/search/story.aspx?id=b61f88c2-d0e5-42a7-9f21-79f99a78fff8 Dag Aabye: The Last Ski Bum Canada's best-known skiing legend still lives on the edge -- with one more stunt to pull. Doug Ward Vancouver Sun VERNON - One day in February 1969, Dag Aabye skied down the 70-degree slope of The Lions. It was an exercise insane enough to prompt a U.S. ski magazine to give him an award for the most idiotic ski stunt pulled that year. The run down The Lions, which stick up 5,000 feet behind Grouse Mountain, also put him on the front page of the next day's Vancouver Sun. "Of course it was a dumb thing to do," Aabye recalled recently, a mischievous smile on his weathered 61-year-old face, while enjoying a libation at Silver Star Resort, the ski area near Vernon where he now lives and works. "The Lions had never been skied before. But I was young then. Full of piss and vinegar." Long before extreme skiers and snowboarders replaced downhill racers as the poster boys of the snow sports industry, there was Aabye, a wild mountain man with a shock of blond hair and an instinct to go where no skier had gone before. "You could call him the first extreme skier -- possibly even the world's first extreme skier," said Nancy Greene Raine, Canada's best-known skiing legend, who lived during the 1960s in Whistler, where Aabye's stunts on skis earned him some local notoriety. But back to the 1969 descent of The Lions. It had seemed like a good idea the day before when Aabye suggested the venture over beers to the late Sun photographer Deni Eagland. Aabye, then 27, who started skiing when he was two, had tackled many of the world's most challenging runs since leaving his home town of Sigdil, Norway. "The challenge of the south face of The Lions would be another notch in his ski pole," wrote photographer Eagland in his account of the stunt in The Sun. Eagland accompanied Aabye as he was flown up to a small crested ridge between the peaks in a helicopter. Eagland and helicopter pilot David Alder then flew further down the slope to a vantage point where he could capture Aabye's run on film. "We watched in awe as Aabye plunged down the slope leaping off mounds and gracefully avoiding trees in beautiful sweeping turns," wrote Eagland. "But in a split moment the beauty turned to horror as a section of snow about 100 feet wide by 300 feet deep started to slide, carrying Aabye with it. "It seemed like a giant carpet had been pulled from under him. We stared in terror as the seething mass of snow engulfed Aabye." The skier's blue jacket popped to the surface then vanished. Eagland and Alder circled the avalanche area for several minutes in the helicopter before seeing a tiny patch of blue at the base of a tree. "I fell into a tree well. Everything I had was broken: My skis, everything. I didn't have my hat or gloves, nothing. But I was alive. It was pure luck." Aabye recalled that he knew at the time that the avalanche risk was high. "I knew right from the beginning that I might be in trouble. There was two feet of fresh powder and the snow layer underneath had frozen." The run down The Lions isn't the only crazy stunt in Aabye ski history. After arriving in Whistler when the ski operation opened in the mid-'60s, Aabye had people shaking their heads when he would balance on one hand on the top of the cafeteria roof. He'd then flip over, ski down and jump off the roof, landing in the parking lot. Jim McConkey, a Whistler ski legend and pioneer, recalled similar Aabyesque antics. "I was going up the old T-bar and when I got to the top I saw this guy walking on his hands with skis on. He just flipped over and skied down the hill." Aabye also skied down the rocky, narrow gondola line at Whistler, terrain that then was avoided by most skiers. McConkey also remembered the time there was a huge dump of snow on Grouse Mountain and Aabye decided to ski down underneath the gondola. "I remember going down the gondola and seeing his tracks in the snow. It was very steep and there were rocks and logs." Only someone like Aabye could have completed such a hairy run, said McConkey. "He was built like a bow-string, all sinew. He was a phenomenal athlete and a great -- what they call today -- extreme skier." A profile in the winter 2001 issue of Ski Canada magazine calls Aabye the Father of Freeride. Another apt moniker for Aabye could be The Last Ski Bum. Today Aabye lives at Silver Star where he holds the record for completing the most double-black diamond runs in one day -- 31 on the steep terrain of the Putnam Creek mountain face. Silver Star honored Aabye by naming a ski run after him -- Aabye Road. Aabye lives rent-free in a converted school bus with a wood stove at the foot of the mountain near Vernon. He rises early every morning -- about 3 a.m. -- and runs through the dark up an old logging road to the resort. After changing out of his sweats, he dons new clothes and cross-country skis for an hour. (Last year he placed fourth in the world cross-country championships in Quebec in his age group.) He returns to the resort and starts his job as a dishwasher at the Lord Aberdeen Hotel where he also runs a video movie store. It's a different life than the one he lived in the 1960s. Aabye served in the Norwegian army, which allowed him to develop his skills in skiing and acrobatics. Eventually he moved to Britain where he taught skiing. While at a party in London, he was spotted walking down stairs on his hands. This attracted the interest of a talent agent who convinced Aabye to become a movie stunt man. The blond Norwegian appeared as a stunt man in about 20 movies, including a few James Bond movies with Sean Connery. After quitting the cinema in the mid-'60s, Aabye taught skiing for a while in Latin America. Then a friend gave him a free ticket to Vancouver, telling him there was a great new mountain opening up called Whistler. Aabye moved to the fledgling ski operation in 1966. His acrobatic skills on skis were captured in ski movies by Jim Rice, a ski film-maker and rival of Warren Miller. Aabye spent many years near Squamish as a logger, had a family and divorced. He doesn't talk too much about his personal life but is clearly proud of his daughter, a snowboarder, and his son, a competitive runner. Aabye is also proud that he's still a mountain man. "I never really figured out what I would do after I was 60. When I was in my 20s, most people said I would never make it past 30. Then in my 30s, they said I'd never make it past 40. But I'm still here." Aabye's next big challenge is the 2003 125-kilometre race in Grande Cache, Alta. The event is called the Canadian Death Run -- "death" as in the runners being "dead tired" or looking "like death" or having a "death wish." He's being sponsored by Silver Star to compete in the competition. It's one more stunt to pull, something to keep Aabye going. "We have a life to live, right?" "The day you don't have a hill to climb, you might as well forget about it."
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  10. Petzl Rocpecker -- anything else is rape Like a knife through butter in limestone http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT<>prd_id=337331&FOLDER<>folder_id=579083&bmUID=1050361193326
  11. All Ray's pics from bivywaqued.com: The best one though is the shot of Beckey in a phone booth in Kearney's book. It's got living-off-condiments all over it
  12. Seriously Selling the Terkel wagon and buying a SUK. Poser stickers all over it holding fenders on, covering holes, etc. BD peeled right off, cloudveil, petzl and scarpa are on for good Any recommended products/solvents/techniques/spells to get 'em off?
  13. Flood control:
  14. Naw, those are the same bags as last year's 800 fill. Marmot has always claimed that their down was conservatively rated, so maybe they're getting it rated differently now. You cannot go any higher than 900 fill as down that light cannot bear the weight of ANY shell fabric. Also lighter the down, the more quickly it loses loft when moist. No good for steamy nights Even with 800/900 fill, the ripstop they use on these bags is pretty wimpy. Yes, down lasts "forever", but the shell on those bags sure won't. Better off with 700 "standard", will last longer.
  15. We started at diamond head at 10:30pm and then I slept on the bench in front of the heater at elfin for a few hours. Weather got worse, we skiied to Opal cone, then retreated. We probably could have gone as one other VOCer was setting track about an hour ahead of us on a solo day trip across. He left a pair of running shoes at the canadian tire in squamish so he could "run" the 16km back to his truck at Elfin parking lot . Runnin up to D'Head: DOOOOOOOOD THAT'SS CORRRRRE Solo on the Neve?
  16. No link, but I'm sometimes grateful for those climbs being published, as it concentrates the masses of gapers on those specific lines, leaving the 'better' 'cooler' routes less crowded. My favorite memory of a '50 Classic' is the smell of putrid urine and other unidentifiable smells at the belay stations on the Durrance route on Devil's Tower. Oh....and those pee bottles stashed behind blocks and down cracks there. Rarely have I seen anything else approaching the magnitude of that man-made mess on vertical trails. I have been back to the Tower since, but can't bear to go back up the Durrance. .
  17. jordop

    plab nicknames

    We had the JCP John Candy Posse Had to be there
  18. Pick up some Yank plates on the way down and don't stop anywhere but Tuffy and the Valley
  19. What's the problem with getting on the glacier? I would have thought it would be the "Priceish" seracs and slots higher up that would annoy one off the route. Does the thing get that steep, or is it just the roulette factor that's the draw?
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  21. jordop

    Which 4WD SUV?

    Any early 90s Pathfinder testamonials? Thousands cheaper than 4Runners and way more common with way less miles on average, they seem like a good buy. Dumbasses made all the SEs auto with big tires while all the 5spd XEs have small tires ? (was about to hand over the $$ for a $runner last week when the guy tells me, "oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I replaced the dash a few years ago and got a new odometer. There's another 80'000kms on it."
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