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jordop

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Everything posted by jordop

  1. In today's rags: http://www.canada.com/vancouversun/news/story.html?id=3dd1407d-6445-49d4-ad9b-66ea9a35d7ba&k=43470 Body of missing climber recovered Chantal Eustace, Vancouver Sun Published: Tuesday, September 25, 2007 The body of missing climber was recovered from Mount Slesse in Chilliwack this week, close to the spot where he fell into an icy crevasse during a climbing accident in July. Sertac Olgun, 31, a Turkish student living in the Abbotsford area, was hit by falling ice while climbing with a friend on July 7, said Upper Fraser Valley RCMP spokeswoman Const. Lea-Anne Dunlop, in a media release today. When his friend could not locate Olgun, he hiked five hours to locate help, Dunlop said. Members of the Provincial Emergency Program determined the chance of Olgun's survival to be unlikely, she said, after a rescue team surveyed the area of the incident using a helicopter. Two days later, they determined that even a recovery mission was too dangerous. "Recovery was delayed in order to perform a safe extraction, and was made possible by snow melt," said Dunlop. Chilliwack Search and Rescue recovered Olgun's body on Sept. 19 - about 300 metres from the scene.
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  3. After railing against leashes, I now realize that since they don't make brakes >100mm, I'll be using some sort of leash system for the new PowderBillyBroBrah setup. I've bent the crap out of my Freeride brakes to make them fit bigger skis - anybody know how how pliable/resiliant Dynafit brakes are?
  4. Pppffff, you idiots don't even give credit for the breathtaking successes in Iraf
  5. Yeah and back then when the military went too far Truman fired MacArthur's ass, but today the line between military and government is gone.
  6. Wrist loop on ski pole Tip of ski pole
  7. Agreed, pick your posion for that one. Bullshit, you just step in. Bending over with a big pack to do up a leash is STOOPPID. Brakes add weight, sure, but leashes are lame with a big pack.
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  9. That's a grisly accident report Sna?
  10. Maybe not again this year: already skiing in some parts over there! http://www.wildsnow.com/index.php?paged=3
  11. Yeah those 2 for 1 jobs are awesome for Canucks too - if they offer em again this year I'll set up a program to buy em off nayone south of the line . . .
  12. You mean better than that time we "skied" in Phelix Creek on 3 inches of snow? McBride was an awesome trip!!
  13. The following from Drew on bivouac - don't think he can access his own shit anymore, so here's a paste:
  14. Hoot hoot, bring a stickclip for the shrund PB took this cool shot whilst on the buttress:
  15. Trip: Flaming Moe's NW Buttface - Date: 9/9/2007 Trip Report: Don and Jmace were headin up to try the N face of Weart, so PaulB and I hopped on with our own idea to check out Mt Moe, a very seldomly climbed thing north of Weart. I had never heard of anyone going up it, despite it being easy from a few sides, and intensive studies in the maproom indicated some steep contours on the NW side Stupid long trail, swore I'd never do it again, but even on busy weekends there's lots of room for a peaceful camp: Nice 4am wakeup call: Started trudging up towards the Armchair glacier in the dark, trying to forget all the bold contour lines: But after a little rest stop, Don was feeling pretty ill, the victim of some killer hoisin sauce the night before, and decided to head back to camp. Jesse, who also partook of the black stuff, ended up wafting some brutal fumes all day long. I had almost ruined a belay the previous weekend, so I guess it was payback. After sunrise we realized that these mountains really have about 6 hour approaches, which is sofakingweetahded. We had a good look at Weart and although the rock start was filled in and conditions were freaking frigid, there had been a whole bunch of debris slides down it which had chunked up the main face pretty good: So we took a look at Moe: NW buttress is left skyline. Some have wondered about a possible W arete, but it didn't look too appealing up close: Deciding we needed to get out of the insane wind, we went for Moe and trudged down to the base of the route where the NW buttress looked good, but was kinda indistinguishable from the NW face. Starting up the rock was pretty good: some loose shit on ledges, but lots of great jugs. Mostly 4th, but some low 5th. Most of the time we stayed just right of the NW buttress and had some great climbing on sound rock, rope still in pack. At one point Jesse almost took the grand tour when a block he was standing on fell away, but mostly solid stuff up to the summit: Good climb - maybe like a longer, more serious version of the NW ridge of Vayu. Sticking to the ridge proper the whole way would involve some scary knife edges on teetering blocks, so the route is more like a buttress/face combo deal. No idea if anyone's climbed on this side of Moe; it's worthwhile but pretty far away. Pond: The secret ingredient is cough syrup j8EyvFgd_Kw
  16. I'd call Alarm Force first, that's 1-800-267-2001 - that number again is 1-800-267-2001. 1-800-267-2001.
  17. Just really slow more than really rough driving.
  18. I thought this was pretty cool what with the solar panel and all. Needs more of a receptacle or something underneath.
  19. CANADIAN Alpine Journal I see that online they are offering it for $39 . . . http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/publications/caj.html
  20. -"You cheeseburger walrus!" -"Mr Lahey, they're juxtaposing weird animal names with greasy food products again!"
  21. jordop

    Favorite Beer

    .
  22. Bugs weren't that bad and maybe they are a bit quieter this year? . . . maybe deeper snowpack, relatively cool summer temps? . . . there have also been some pretty low feezes overnight lately.
  23. I haven't worn/needed/taken gore in the winter, iceclimbing, -30 below mtneering, multi-day ski traverses, whatever, in 7 years, and very few of my partners have either. For the users I know, the drawbacks of powershield/schoeller are FAR less than those of laminates. The only situation I have ever thought about wanting a laminate is on wet/lowangle iceclimbs of more than a few pitches. Otherwise, the heat I generate by moving is more than ample to keep the water on the other side of the fabric. Fuck, the Scandahoovians have known about this shit for years and stupid North Americans think that before goretex everybody had a really bad time in the winter.
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