glen

Featuring the hit single "I'm a belay slave for you."

I have recieved nothing else from Cantwell. Not too surprising. For those who are interested, there is a day of action on une 15th to protest Fee Demo. Someone has been getting the word out, as there was a flyer on my windshield at the end of the day at the Snow Lake TH. Also, New Hampshire has passed state level legislation against Fee Demo claiming double taxation. Gee... I guess they actually live by their state motto, "Live Free or Die."

... if you feel the need to get Gold Stars of recognition for your climbing feats from fellow cc'ers. Personally, I prefer

5 miles cross country at 10,000+ feet with 80-90lbs of granite on your back *is* good training.

If only I needed a piece of Vantage. It kinda sucks to carry an 8lb sledge into the backcoutry, fill your pack with rocks and then hike back out.

As for chipping, I usually get my chunks of granite with an 8lb sledgehammer and a signed and sealed permit from the NPS.

The frosted glass is used in the preparation of thin sections for petrographic analysis of rocks. I use a lot of these in my geology research. I would hope nobody starts gluing chunks of glass to crags. Some of those crimps are painful enough as it is.

If you ignore the ethical issues of gluing, chipping etc... The 2-part 2 ton epoxy is awesome for gluing rock. it is low enough viscosity that if you put it in while still warm, it will flow in well behind the flake and work well. A disposable syringe may be useful. I use it to glue chunks of polished granite to frosted glass and it works quite well. There is also a 5-minute version, but you would have to mix that in the middle of the route.

Any recent updates on Darrington road conditions?

Just don't let scot'teryx know there's a bong in there...

So... my bro is coming into town and wants me to take him climbing (he's a beginner) The weather looks crappy here, leavenworth, and Vantage is going to be swarming with drunk concertgoers. Any thoughts on a good place to take him? G

Dru, Translation: You might be a WA climber if you'd rather rip on gapers than talk about climbing...

100! I think the point that lambone made is a good one. If a daisy is improperly clipped, it can result in total failure. If you clip several loops, the daisy will retain full strength, but the resulting tangle-0-daisy has the potential to cross load the biner, catch on the gate or any number of fun things. If you keep it girthed to the front of your harness and clipped somewhere else, it will often become tangled in your rack (assuming trad) and cause problems. Of course, if you're a sporto, it probably won't be much of an issue. The weight issue is not really an issue because a short daisy weighs in similar to a 24" runner. On the other hand, a runner has the benefit of being dual purpose on those long, sewn-up pitches where you want every runner you have (we've all been there at some point). If you're worried about belays that might blow, just bring a screamer. If the belays are that suspect, or the forces will be that great (snake dike is a slab, so fall forces will be mitigated a bit by the friction of the climber losing skin on granite), the weight of a screamer is a small price to pay. Personally, I reserve my daisys for aid climbing and use a runner at belays. If the pitches are short, I will often tie an eight on a bight of rope. This also allows the leader to take the extra runner on the next pitch, if needed. As with many thing in climbing, each situation may require a different approach and daisys may or may not be appropriate. As a personal anchor at belays they are totally bomber. As the main link in a belay, I would be suspect and approach it with caution as an incorrectly clipped biner can reduce the overall reliability of the system below my comfort level. 0.02

Your 'tendon' injury is actually from your keyboard. Your suntan comes from sitting too close to your screen. You think going to a different gym is a road trip. You post on CC with 4 avatars. you ask, on a repeated basis, "so, how do you get the rope to the top of the pitch again?" And finally: if you have been heard saying, "I love the Mountaineers."

"CANADA: Leading the world in being North of the United States of America"

quote: Ha ha Scotty you sure are one uptight bastard. There were at least 3 other people in the hut who didn't smoke and saw no problem with it actually 4 since I just got off the phone with a friend. So screw you you uptight piece of shit. Ahhh... the nostalgia.

..."Mt. Shuksan, White Salmon approach -- Grade I - II, BW4- " means something to you. Subalpinism

Did it look like this?

You might be a WA climber if: You need a machete to climb a crack... You consider climbing in the rain a normal, perfectly acceptable thing to do... Slush and ice are your favorite conditions... "Rusty is trusty"... Any more?

Another one... First trad lead (Nailbox crack, 5.8, Pinnacles N.M.). Of course it's on scary rock with a poorly developed crack. My partner (supposedly more experienced) convinced me that I would only need one set of nuts (1-10 wild country, and all we had) to lead it. So I get up there, I'm a lot nervous because I *know* that most of my placements are bad and I'm in the middle of the crux. I look down at my belayer and notice that his girlfriend has her tounge firmly lodged in his ear and he's, er, um, well... distracted by it. Attentive belayer, I think not. Lots of bad judgement on my part to get into that situation, but I still think that making out while belaying is a bad idea.

Certainly, a knot would have helped (a lot), but I would still have been stranded high on the 50m rope. Knots on rap ropes are certainly a must unless there is abnormal fear of weird ass rope tangling from flakes, etc.

I was climbing with one of my best friends down in Pinnacles Nat'l Monument and introducing him to the world of leading. I ran up a 5.8 set an anchor at the top and had him lower me off. About 10' off the deck, he let the end of the rope run through the device (always buy a 60m rope). Luckily for me the route slabbed out at the bottom and I somehow managed to run it out. He'll never be inattentive about the end of the rope again. He's still one of my best friends.

Rode in, same as most days. It was a bit wet, so the fenders went back on. D'oh!

I can't speak to his judgement as I wasn't there and don't know him. In his game, climbers with bad judgement pay a heavy toll and there is a lot to be said for a conservative approach. Kudos for packing out all camp materials though. A good standard to set and follow.