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cappellini

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Everything posted by cappellini

  1. looking for pulses to hike 3-4 hours uphill and climb obvious, steep, plumb lines...must be willing to take risk, suck it up, and simply go your 60 meters and shut the fuck up...must also be willing to have a great time badmouthing anyone who is or isn't present....i prefer to do it all in a day so i can go home and enjoy fine wine, garden fresh organic fruits and vegetables, fresh grilled meat and fish, and sleep in my own bed with my lovely wife...but i'll sleep outside in the dirt and and carry good food for your sorry ass if i have to...don't send a resume since i don't care how rad you think you are, from my experience everyone seems to cry, whine, and avoid the best line anyway...
  2. you can actually see the last two piches from left side of rubble ramp in the photo...
  3. erik and i climbed the box on the north face...it alternates back and forth between the r & l facing corners (l,r,l, 2p 60m each) with a bit of deviation from that theme to regain the feature after crossing the diagonal rubble ramp (look for the nice fingers 30 ft up)..than r,l,r in the box to the crack finishing at the summit block (2p)..one of the best ive done, all but the first pitch contain 10spots...the holds are clean and any easy trundles have been bagged..sorry no fixed gear
  4. its called, "the exhumed classics"..its with the publisher now..look for rat's "pantera pete" pitch on the cover
  5. how bout a retainer
  6. one more idea...a guide that somehow frequently includes pete's name...like what dirty suggests
  7. what about a guide to the first crowbar ascent opportunities appearing throughout wa, particularly in the icicle..removing thoughtless bolts on lead while free climbing with adequate natural and gear protection..now there's a necessary evolution pathway for our sport... or maybe a guide to all the free fixed hardware easily removable while protected by the adjacent, natural or gear protection, there's hundreds of dollars worth of this junk littering the icicle alone, just waiting for an industrious sohl...like the unsung hero (or should i say "arshole" who has removed some of the more tacky botchjobs around here...thank you and keep abusing whatever substance motivates such righteous behavior)... or how bout a guide to the neglected classics which have now been resurected from the filth and down bolted, disregarding the existing protection and the boldness of the original ascent.. ive got it, a guide to all mike's routes with a correction factor for exaggerations, grade inflation, and the general fiction in his descriptions making them so enduring..like that super sick 5.10+ grade IV acid baby line he reported, which actually took 3 (1 lame, 1 old, and 1 fat) guys a mere half day from the car on their ground up questionable fa..hmmm i would be happy to contribute to any of these
  8. don't take it personal...this site is full of shit therefore we are....they're boulders..fairly insignificant summits..so woopy if there's bolts on top...for a 6 yr old those boulders are huge, let em top rope..it s not like someone grid bolted your bolder...around here people are downbolting faces that have already been climbed with ample traditional protection..bolts next to gear...i see it regularly..disgrace..if the place feels special to you and the bolts offend you...remove them..i would if i felt that way about your boulder field and wanted to waste my time roremoving bolts
  9. these are boulders with top rope anchors....why would you chop them? i'm sure you and your friends use stacks of humping pads for landings...this is no different than top roping...if the boulders do not have natural or gear anchors available on top than the bolts seem quite justified...i also would not claim to be responsible for fa's on boulders, i mean really...you have no idea who may have climbed those boulders before you, they make great perches for launching knapped projectiles into big game...get my drift...besides, in the northwest dirt comes back quite quickly..where i live they have written a guide book with names, fa's, etc about countless boulders that i had climbed on previous to their claims...i as they, was surely not the first, nevertheless like you they claim fa's and other such nonsense...like someone else said "don't use them"...
  10. go back to tacoma
  11. and don't forget to masturbate
  12. cappellini

    Getting ASS

    skate skiing is a great way to get ass....
  13. i'll meet you out there
  14. any idiot who drops there shit does not deserve it back
  15. why buy a parking sticker when you can buy a 2006 fishing license for not much more $, you'll get a parking sticker good through march 2007 with your 2006 fishing license
  16. tape is definitely aid......i saw tommy caldwell aiding some hard crack on el cap in the aaj...what a poser, he claims to have freed it
  17. i climbed that wide crack, yes no pro after bolt, its 10+, it leads to a good stance and a steep face which appears to have enough holds...but still no pro...i lacked the fortitude to boldly charge the dirty face and therefore downclimbed the bitchy crack...we did not summit either...i will be back with something to beat that face into submission with harvesting tat is a bit of a sport in itself everyone should do...i have moved lots of it around....i usually remove the new stuff for later and rap off the old stuff...i ve discovered two things, they should not manufacture bright colors and if people don't trust the webbing which is already there they should replace it not just add more shit to it....
  18. watch out for rap bolters
  19. #4 camalot is standard mt. gear, irregardless of someones suggestions....
  20. we started in the obvious corner just to the right of the butress toe...and continued up the obviously better choices when given any....an attemp was made to keep the contrivometer from pegging without going around everything interesting...probably same last pitch that is why most of the black shit in the arching part was rubbed off...i always rub it off before i really jerk my way up...your topo sucks, there are no neighboring landmark features for reference points....way to send the shit..next time you crank topher brah i'll film
  21. joke? i believe lawrence acknowleged encountering nesting birds and blatantly disrespecting their nest...therefore his claims of slapsticking are obviously out of convenience and not from his heart..although i think he is far too soft to actually fling baby birds to the ground... i should remind everyone that this is an open public forum, equally available to young impressionable climbers as to those who can rightly process such stupidity as humor...however, the decay in ethics and style compounded with the mainstreaming of climbing over the past ten or fifteen years makes l's statement inappropriate....its like crackbolting, completely inexcusable...... oh yea, i have personally killed, gutted, and eaten plenty of birds, mammals, reptiles and fish alike...and yes that does include babies, mommies and daddies....but last time i checked it wasn't song bird season at index... i woulkd also like to remind everyone that any statement i make on this goofy site is to be taken light heartedly...direct honesty is arguably the most effective method of communication ...as i will jokingly point out the folly in anothers words, retaliation to ones benevolent actions is also a reality.... "just singing in the rain"
  22. hey tim lawrence...choose a life which isn't so pathetic...if there are birds go somewhere else...in case you haven't realized, rock climbing, which you seem to express great passion for, is pathetically insignificant....particularly at the lower town wall....i here of anyone flinging birds from their nest so they can scury up some insignificant crack i will make a project out of finding you and pitching you into the $%$^&&* talus....it would bring me great pleasure...asshole...
  23. i heard some disturbing gossip from hospital staff of a leavenworth local climbing fatality....i have seen no sign of rescue/recovery..........anyone have answers? really hoping this is bogus info...
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