IceIceBaby

Not to butt in … But my beef is with the ridicules campaign of “light and fast” (push to the extreme). There are so many ways to save effectively on weight (sleeping gear, shelter, backpacks, boots etc), that the reduction in 1 or 2 ounce out of your cooking set will not make the crucial difference. Sure u “take care of the ounces and the pound will take care of them self,” however, the total result of using Ti cookware is not highlighted (extra gas, heat transfer deficiency, bad design, etc) like the emphasis in the weight of the cookware…that is what I call hype and for that I contest. Look at any professional cookware manufactures and look at core of their product in the middle of it is Aluminum (cost isn’t an issue mind you…just superiority of metal properties)

Btw, Alum- if coated and/or electrically anodized there is no reason for health concerns. Also, the aluminum has the best even heat distribution/heat retention of all metals and it is more robust then any Ti pot out here. For an ounce or two in the weight difference u can save allot more on liquids weight (i.e. gas) with less possibility of burning your food and having more cash in your pocket for longer trip In reality Ti is for showoff (or money gumbies) do side by side comparing and see for yourself

Twin - for low angle, remote, sharp edges, and bomber pro Doubles - for any angle, wondering routs, remote, sharp edges, not so bomber pro, glaciers and more… I will go with doubles any day

actually u dead on as far as the right sizes and yes sometimes the #2 will fit where other wont...as u can tell I love them they worth their $14 price tag in gold

Yeah, Dru it only took the moderator a week to post this...so by then it was old news

IMHO, The Trango Extreme S are the bomb and they good in any conditions but extreme cold (that’s why u also own plastic) my second choice will be the Nepal Top (un insulated) another great boots

Looking to buy #3, #4, #5 big bros used or new ...anyone

My rack of sling consist of 6 - 24” Nylon, tripled with 2 Positron biners each (racked on the harness 6 on each side 3 spectra and 3 nylon I use the nylon for emergency prussics or if have to leave a runner) 6 – 24” Blue water spectra, tripled with 2 Positron biners each (racked on the harness) 2 – 48” Blue water spectra, doubled with 1 Positron locking each (racked over the shoulder) 1 – 96” DMM spectra, quadrupled with 1 Positron locking (racked over the shoulder) My belayer will have a minimum of 2 - 24” nylon and 1- 48” (nylon or spectra) over the shoulder with 2 locking biner Over the years base on my experience I came to this numbers and this is what I take with me on any trad/alpine lead

for light rain and wind use there is nothing wrong with them…they actually holding up pretty well for the price…after all u wont feel bad when u abuse it…I find the 3 seasons to get more abuse then my 4 season tent

The O.R. crampon pouch have an attachment point on the back of the pouch that u can attach directly to the packs daisy chain and the crampon pouch can zip all the way around make it the easiest to manipulate IMHO It is a better solution since u can take it off if needed and replace it where u seems to fit also u can take it off all together in case u need to save weight something u cant do with pre sewn one

The founder of OR died in avalanche here is the story

I use to own the Tikka and I hated it, the Zipka is even smellier shit. I now own the BD Moonlight and I love it so far I cant wait to try the Myo kind of the best of the two worlds

Yeah but the page dose not refresh and the access is very slow…I like the site although the color scheme

I have the Eldorado 2 doors and I love this thing. just a little cramp for two but manageable. the second door is a god sent when using the vestibule or when using snow walls. It gives one access to the gear under a tarp and let one partner go out peeing in midnight in relatively minor disturbance. also it is the ventilation king for condensation control and after Mexican beans dinner And ohh yeah …it is bomb proof and handle my sorry storm bound ass time and time again

Why don’t u try the ANNAPURNA at 6lb 14oz , 33sq.ft and with $450 price tag it is a great substitute

Don’t know about Denali but in the white mountain of NH the wind can get pretty harsh My partner tent Ambition 35 endure a gales of 100mph on Madison gulf (we learn that later when we got down at Pinkham notch) in the presidential range this winter if the tent stacked properly (which we did in the middle of the night… duhh…what were we thinking)

Another vote for WC rocks and very close second Metolius then DMM and Frost. For specialized nuts…nothing fit like HB offset second will be the DMM peanuts On the straight micro, I like the Metolius, BD, RP, and HB (in that order) I just cannot stand BD stoppers

NFPA it is certification of the product for use for a rescue/life depending situations

I only use CMI Ultrascenders I used to own the Petzl but I have seen the light buy them with confidence hands on they are the best in the market

For me it is always was pulling hair with cham3s. That is why I do not order from them or any European on line company. Also, the exchange is not to my favor and if u look around you will see that u can get the same deal or better from local companies But then again, I NEVER had a good experience with them but I used to let it go for the substantial saving I was having…Nowadays there is no reason to do this BTW French and right after them Italian are known for their most horrible costumers service all over Europe if u like service from them don’t pay in full till u satisfy

Adjustable daisies are necessary for today Aid climbing (sure u can do aid with regular daises…but so u can do 70º couloirs with hob nails boots) It will definitely speeds your ascent and simplifies top stepping I personally like the Yates adjustable daises. For the time, convenience, and $34 for the pair, it is extremely valuable and cheap

Lambone, What I disliked about BD ledge is Corners or lack of After a little while the corner webbing getting seriously abraded (big worried for such a crucial link) The floor is resembles hammock rather then ledge (unless u put the fin up) it sags way too much 2 pp way too cramped in there Fly sucks big time Very hard to use the ledge interior room there are no daisy chains Space to weight ratio….not good

1. What do you have? I have the old Gramicci double ledge and the A5 single 2. What do you like? I LOVE MINE…I also like the fish and the Metolius…but I HATE the BD…in my experience what a piece of crap 3. Have you ever set up the fly? Is it worth it to buy one? On my Gramicci the fly is attached with beautiful 2 doors design (some what resembling the A5 expedition but a lot better design) and on my single A5 I bought it with a fly…is it worth it??? Like it said before u must be a head case if u don’t take one every trip with u Granted I only had to deploy it twice on my trips (both on cannon in the NE) but when the rain hit there is no where around it 4. What problems have you had? Finding a good shop for minor repairs on my Gramicci and replacing the crappie A5 buckles (they started to slip after no time) 5. Sex on the ledge? If only the ledge could speak (Gramicci) just don’t be shock loading and bouncing violently 6. Can you think of any good design to paint on the bottom of the ledge? For Yosemite “If u can see it u way too close…get off my back biach” 7. How many of you have a ledge sitting in a corner of your garage that you never use? Garage in typical NYC apartment…u on crack man…anyway for the lack of garage I have to take it out at least for a week (total days) every month from May to September 8. What routes in Washington can you use a ledge on? Squamish? Don’t know it well but u can definitely use it on Index and the chief 9. Anything else? If I have to get a ledge this days I will go with Fish double whammy 10. Anyone want to go aid climbing in Yosemite in September? Yeah I wanna go but let see if my finance will let me

I will say half and half BD-0.5, 0.75, 1, 2 CCH, black, blue, green, yellow, red Matolius Blue WC tech 2.5 So I don’t have one dominant cams manufacture sometime I will throw in BD 3 and 3.5 but this not happening very often …but then again I climb at the Gunks mostly

Nahh...just smart Ebay buyerI bought them over the years none of them cost me over $100 and all the dana, the nozon, and the icesac were brand new the only one used were the Andinista and the Chernobyl in less then $80 a piece