G-spotter

Macabre route was climbed by Sheffield & Spagnut & should be in an old VOCJ. CAJ is not online - you have to get a DVD with all the issues on it. It used to be free to members but now I think they sell it for $25?

No, rockfall on a trad climb in El Potrero took Jose.

http://www.piquenewsmagazine.com/pique/index.php?cat=C_News&content=Sar+on+wedge+1532 Climber with broken leg allegedly abandoned on glacier by rest of party to wait for rescue. Not on K2, mind you - on the Wedge Gl. near Whistler.

That north buttress on Macabre has been done, 5.8 or 9 if i remember correctly, new Beckey guide should have details. Doug did you have access to the 1987 CAJ comparing the Fairley and Serl/Foweraker north buttress routes?

They went paperless (web-only) a couple years ago

Does ring any bells?

1. Nisleheim. 2. It looks like the better option would be to go the other way, from Wedge over to Gladsheim. You could drop down the headwall and climb the SE or SW ridge routes on Wedge to start. The north sides of the crest, out of Gwillim Creek, are glaciated/rubble and offer easier traversing than the ridge crest option.

Trip: Valhalla Range - 8 Days in Valhalla Date: 8/3/2008 Trip Report: Jesse, Graham and I spent 8 days based out of Mulvey Lake climbing and scrambling. we took a lot of gear, hoping to do a couple hard routes, but ended up climbing mostly easier stuff after some encounters with vegetated cracks on Gladsheim and recent rockfall scars on Asgard's south face. We climbed: Nisleheim east ridge, 4 pitches, 5.7 Asgard SE ridge, 3 pitches, 5.7 Gladsheim SW Face, variant to the Brown/Marcus, 5 pitches to 5.8 plus 400m of scrambling Midgard, north and south ridges, 3rd class Nott to Dag traverse, much scrambling and one rappel, rappel pitch TRed at 5.9 on return using rope left through anchor We got stormed on the last few days, otherwise, a great week. Snaffles are voracious at the bivi below Gmli S ridge, not so bad down by the lakes if care is taken to hang food. Plenty of goats and other critters around. 8 flavours of snafflehound are in situ: -bushy-tailed woodrat -marmot -Columbia ground squirrel -pika -regular red squirrel -shrew -mouse -chipmunk Bring a saw. We were trapped behind a fallen tree on the way out and had to chop through it with ice axes, a very slow and tedious job that blistered up my city-slicker keyboard-fondling hands but good. Some pics: Gear Notes: Full rack, most pieces not needed for the routes we did but we took'em anyways. Approach Notes: Bannock Burn road is 2wd. Bring a saw! 4 hrs to hike through Nisleheim-Gimli col and down to lakes. Bring crampons and ice axe for descent from col.

Have you ever noticed that roosters are all cock and no balls?

you're just making him more aroused

sadly i delete most of my bad photos now

"the hardest part about climbing Everest? getting 2 inches of dick through 8 inches of down!" - ed hillary

There is no such thing. Take the Environment Canada forecast for Golden or Revelstoke and double the probability of precipitation.

It's on the maps. It isn't really a time saver, it is shorter distance wise, but for a lot of it you will be driving at 30-40 kmh, so you don't save any time.

That depends if you're macking or not.

How about Japan? http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/nationworld/2008080717_japan30.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amok

Hip-hopera

Josh Lavigne says that the raps go straight down from the bivi boulder. In the Piche/atkinson guide this is labelled "difficult rappels possible" but it's since been coveniently bolted with rap anchors.

did you check the toilets?

Conclusion: No detectable difference.

Post first, think later.

Think first, post later.

There IS a train. The tracks are right next to the highway...buried under the same rocks.

actually Harrison West is in 2wd shape right now But bring good tires. Expect one flat, maybe 2.