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Everything posted by KeithKSchultz

  1. ANWR drilling

    Here are some facts. In the early sixties the Desplaines river (near Chicago) used to catch fire and burn out of control for days. In the early sixties Lake Michigan was dead. Every fish in the entire lake died in a matter of a few days. There were dunes of dead fish on the shore around Chicago. The stench was unbearable from miles away. That is what will happen again to any place we let profit motivated corporations have their way in. The latest technology in drilling for oil in Alaska uses Beryllium as a lubricant for the bits. It is pumped into the holes in large quantities and comes back out in large quantities to be piled in waste dumps near the drilling site. Beryllium is a highly toxic heavy metal that somehow escaped being labeled as a toxic substance by the EPA during the Reagan administration. Golly, more republican science? So now it can and is dumped where ever it seems handy. I do not need a scientist to anylize the details to know that there was nothing alive for fifty yards from the piles I saw. Go see it for yourself and then if you still think we should drill in the largest calving ground in the word for numerous species, give yourself a Beryllium enima.
  2. What Does Climbin' mean to you?

    quote: Originally posted by carolyn: funny joekania I echo Gregs response. Ive found it really puts me in the moment....somewhat healthier way of forgetting shit (bills, relationships, work, etc) than Ive used in the past. Ya, ya, I know the "healthy" part might be debateable. I also enjoy how it challenges me to think differently. i (think) I kind of like scaring the shit out of myself. And of course, its FUN! Ive always loved being outdoors. Climbing has taken my respect and enjoyment for the outdoors to a different level. Nice post Bronco Too much. My wife's name is Carolyn and she would rather see me die on a freeway than have a good time in the mountains. That's why I do it.
  3. Best Trundle?

    Boyscouts. Troop 9. 1968. seven of us braced against a rock wall and put our feet against the top of a VW bus sized rock. It rolled. It bounced. It went over the cliff. The ground shook. The boyscouts screamed in delight.
  4. ANWR drilling

    I got cut off from CC.com at work. They have some sort of scanner for email and web traffic and you guys set off alarms like a Polaris submarine running aground on the coast of Siberia. Then when I get back on line, I find that you have been having an intelligent conversation. Is this a conspiracy? And what about the Ross ice shelf that is now the biggest iceberg in 2300 yrs? That's a fairly long time even by climitalogical standards. After all this discourse, hasn't anyone ever heard of the studies of particulates in the ancient ice on both poles? Our ice, that from the last 100 years, is consistantly dirtier than ANYTHING they have found from earlier times except for short intermittant periods of volcanic dusting. Shit. Now I have to go read scientific journals to find what I am talking about.... This is really going to hurt.
  5. First Peak

    Mt Jumbo. Age 5.
  6. ANWR drilling

    Right on Dennis. We are living in a world economy that is based on oil and steel production. It is our legacy to leave more shit in the atmosphere than any generation before us. It is damn fun being one of the richest societies in all history. Too bad we are shitting on the following generations.
  7. Mt Index

    The Becky guide has a pretty good general description of the route. Once you get on the route, you just follow the slings and pins. Cutting across the slabs or snow field in the middle of the face is probably the crux if it is melted down significantly. Take a medium rack with a few extra small wires and lots of slings for slinging trees and shrubs.
  8. First Trad lead

    Now you will sell the family heirlooms to buy gear. Beware! There is no twelve step program and those who pretend to be your friends really just want you to belay them on their next project.
  9. small, medium, large rack

    My Cascade "small rack" has about a dozen pieces with enough biners and slings to clip 8. One mid size camalot, three or four slung stoppers and a run of small wires. For a "mid sized" rack I throw in a few TCU's and two small tricams and a large Camelot, maybe some more wires if it looks thin, or another large camalot if it looks fat. For a "large rack" I look at the route, consider the strength of my partner, and start hanging gear.
  10. How do you go poopy in a zip-lock bag?

    Dennis, would you mind posting a recent picture so if I see you out in the mountains I can marvel that you are still alive?
  11. Denali - Climbing Report

    Great TR. Beer N burger for 5 bucks at the WR. Right on. Gotta love that 9%. I don't remember the rest of my trip.
  12. A tribute to Peter Puget

    Let's face it. Most of you are climbers because it's the only thing you weren't kicked out of. Now you are here by choice because it is the only place you can be yourself with more than one person listening and not get droned out by scoffs and laughter. Thank you for not hanging out at my favorite places.
  13. New Route Ethics in Leavenworth

    Duh? Removing bolts placed beside cracks just feels good.
  14. Partner Needed Alaska - Foraker - Have Permit

    I had one of those. My first wife popped it. It was an ugly divorce.
  15. Hanger Replacement at Vantage

    quote: Originally posted by erik: keith i am the nicest person alive........ i am not right nor wrong........ my ideas are mine.......take what you want from them..... just dont ever call me a thief......ever... i am not an elitest either....ask anyone who knows me................ I'm glad you are not a theif. But nice? Your flames are too consistent to believe that. I know a lot more cimbers who will not look on this board than those who will because of the locker room mentality and the unneccessary flaming. From what I have seen when I log on here, you are one of the meanest. Flame on dude, but don't call yourself nice......ever.
  16. Hanger Replacement at Vantage

    Yeh OK. Even though it was your rude comments that turned this into a personal bullshit fest, I will recant my message with the joke icon so that you can puff your chest out with impunity. I presented an opinion based on 20 years of experience with a variety of agencies who use "public land use management" as a euphamism for justfying user fees. You responded with a cryptic emotional attack. I did not attack your opinions, nor did I seriously insinuate that you stole the hangers at vantage. The joke icon is used regularly to defuse comments. I just countered your eletist attitude, which sucks. You are just another climber dude. Not a gift. Why not let people exchange ideas on this board without having to be lawers versed in what Erik thinks is cool.
  17. Hanger Replacement at Vantage

    quote: Originally posted by erik: good idea, just stop climbing there..... people we do not need to turn every place into somewhere where everyone can go...... 10 yrs ago when i started climbing there, there was no rap stations or mass grid bolting.....i do not think that rap stations will fix the problem....having people not climbing there will lesson the impact... now we have two stupid ideas here....... leave vantage alone and deal with what is out there...... and no more fixed installations....... Hmmmmm...... Have we found the ellusive hanger theif? Erik, there is a guide book for the coulee. People are arriving in hoards compared to 10 years ago and their numbers will continue to increase. Deal with it.
  18. Hanger Replacement at Vantage

    Remember the columns over on the Tieton (Washington columns?)? The state got involved over there. They started making noises about the erosion and then found the nesting site of the perigrines. That resulted in spring closure of the area near the nest. No matter what the real impacts are, the visual impacts will generate action by the state. Just a thought. This still doesn't solve how to keep the anchors from getting ripped off.
  19. Hanger Replacement at Vantage

    I have to agree with Charlie. It's just a matter of time before the state comes up with some excuse to charge for the use of the area like developed camping or some other bullshit excuse. The more we can minimize our impacts, the less we will appear on their radar.
  20. Dumber than a bar stool

    I've got an issue with leaving my 43, not 34 shoes, Do you believe in Dog?
  21. easy meals

    It is always a good idea to prepare for battle by eating a can of smoked oysters or perhaps some elk sausage early in the day (but after you are out of the car). In this way, you can always be assured of having a long lead.
  22. belayer can't see or hear climber

    On a one-day traverse of the Enchanments, I asked my wife to be at the Snow Creek parking lot at 2:00. She was. I was on the switchbacks coming down. Some backpackers came out ahead of me and convinced her that I wouldn't be out till after dark. Thanks guys. I watched her pull away from about three switchbacks up. Now I have my handy radios and just call her when I get close to the trailhead. If she is at the family fun center she can usually hear me at least a little bit and knows to come with beer. I love my radios, my beer, and my wife.
  23. COOL! New forum

    West Rib May 17. Anyone else going up there and want to share the shuttle?
  24. Employment

    quote: Originally posted by trask: What!? She has to suck on something?
  25. Pub Club is the shit!

    (3) skipping out on the tab is lame It was a most unfortunate oversight for which I am humbly apologetic. I throw myself at the mercy of the rule book.