Richard_Pumpington

If by you selling this stuff, means that you aregoing to start gaping(tele-skiing), or knuckle-dragging(snowboarding), might I first suggest thatyou end life as you know it, now? Follow the Lemmingsoff the edge of the cliff first? Strap some TNT toyour chest and blow yourself up in the name of thealmighty Allah? There are lots of other choices outthere, before you have to resort to either of thosecannibalistic sports. Beware of the dark side Luke!

The Canadian Snowboarding Association proved in the last Olympics, that Marijuana,Ganja,Motta,Cannabis Sattiva,Bud,Dope, or whatever the individualcalls it, is NOT a performance enhancing drug. Thisbrings us to Canada's "Just Say Whhooaaa" drug policy.Use the bong, Luke; trust in the bong, Luke! [ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

Yo PDX, Got a fair amount of precip last night(Gresham),wind has been coming out of the east, so theremight be a little wind loading on both of those routes. Dig a pit and scope the layering first;both those routes have large open slopes at thetop, which are prime avi angle(30-40 deg.). Don'tjust assume it's stable, because there's been acouple days of clear; there might be a lot of snowfrom the east side of the mountain, now depositedon the west side! I'm heading up tonight, with abuddy, and try a route a little more easterlyfacing(after snowpack analysis first, of course!).Best of luck and safe climbing.

Maybe he wants to "toss someone's salad" with his "tongs"? Or he wants us to follow his posts to learn more about male "thongs"? It all sounds a little scary to me!

The Grivel G-10 crampon, is not really intended for climbing. The crampon is really for glaciertravel or low,low angle snow climbing(certainlynot ice!), this is why it has "non aggressive"points and only 10 of them. The SMC fully hinged,strap-on crampon(in a S or XS), would be a much better choice. I see so many people using the G-10 for climbing, in places the crampon reallydoesn't belong; what is going to happen when theyhit ice? Hit ice doing a plunge step or ATTEMPTINGto French technique? That's why they aren't foranything more than low angled, mild snow climbs orglacier travel. Having worked in retail climbingsales before, it pains me to see sales people selling products to the customer, that don't fitthe needs of the customer, or describing a productsperformance/abilities without fully being educatedon the product. Even a large company like REI havemade this mistake; they replaced their rental crampon,which used to be the SMC strap-on, with the G-10.Now all kinds of G-10's are going boldly, I meanblindly, to climbs where they don't belong. Alsobad, is going to buy the cheapest product on themarket; you buy those G-10's and that ice axe withthe aluminum head on it and it is going to comearound and bite you is the ass eventually. To purchase the gear, that is correct for the given application, you can't always be looking to "buycheap"; you get what you pay for and are informedabout. [ 12-24-2001: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

I went and viewed the Everest-Omnimax film and saw a bunch of famous people in the film that I knew of, then went home and took a shit that looked just like Sandy Hill-Pittman(you know, the one in the film!). WOW, that was cool!.

Perhaps boring for you, Maxi-pad, but informative for the person who asked the question, or anyone else who is new to the sport. You live in Colorado so why aren't you out climbing, instead of putting in truely boring entries? Or maybe because you are in the newbie section and can't seem to talk about climbing, you CAN'T climb? Probably the case!

The oatmeal works, but only if you immediatly make some hot cocoa or hot cider in them, afterwards!

Goatboy, I know about "leave no trace" camping/climbingand if I want to know about OB/NOLS, I'll sendfor a brochure. Guides services aren't only about"managing people and helping them summit safely";there courses are as good, if not better (someguiding orginazations), than OB/NOLS (AND w/ theAMGA cert, or accreditation!). Perhaps you shouldtake a guided course, to update your understandingof the courses they offer and the curriculum theycover, without being obligated to summit anything.

The South Side Route is for the neophyte climber. Unless you are a beginner or don't know crevasse rescue, it is better used as the descent route, after you have climbed another route. Plus, the E side of Crater Rock and the E side of the lower portion of the Hogsback can still be avi-prone. Snow stability needs to be evaluated on any route. There are also better ski descents than the South Side Route as well, ie.. West Crater Rim, Wy'East, Leuthold Couloir, Snow Dome(below Elliot Glacier Headwall & Sunshine Routes) and Cooper Spur. One more thing; only the Magic Mile chair lift is open in the winter(the first chair from the lodge up), the Palmer chair lift(the top one) is closed in the winter, so the chairs only take you a little way above the lodge. Any more questions?

I once took a crap that looked just like Sandy Hill-Pittman!

OKAY! I'll admit it! My name isn't really 'Dick Pumpington'. I had it legally changed, when I couldn't stand the shit from being named 'Hugh Jardon'. God I feel better now!

Thanks, but I've had the NA Classics CD ROM fora while, as well as the Kroese 'Fifty Favorites'.I recieved some detailed private messages on bothroutes, from people who have climbed it and onewho's planning a trip of their own. Thanks for thebeta though. And yes, Philfort, Dick Pumpington! See the Richard, feel the Richard, BE the Richard!

There is no way any one person could experience that much bad luck. I've read several of his books and found them quite entertaining; perhaps he should just stick to writing. A few times, you might be able to blame "bad luck", the rest is probably bad luck he made those decisions. With a reputation like that, how the hell does he find people willing to tie into a rope with him? I'd go to the pub with the guy and that's about it!

Yo epb,wassabi? It's good to have both. The thing about leathers,is on multi-day trips you can't dry them out, ifand when they get wet. Yes, there are VB socks,but they can still get wet on longer trips. Forice/mixed climbs, the Sportiva's can't be beat,but if your going to climb Rainier, or higheraltitude, you'll want those plastics! The abilityto pop the liner out and throw it in your sleepingbag overnight to dry them out, could end up savingyou some toes.

Has anyone here climbed the SW ridge of Peak 11,300, or Ham & Eggs in Alaska? I'm heading upto try them in April and would like some beta.Yes, I know there's info at the Talkeetna rangerstation(have it) and through the AAC(have it);Iwant some more personal, detailed beta. Maybesome good pic's? Thanks a bunch, in advance. [ 12-15-2001: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

How about BD Neutrino 'biners? Petzl Mini/Pro traxion? Petzl Tikka? Oh, and whatever group gear my partner has to carry.

Guide services(most) offer guiding and courses (without all the granola and smearing your shit on a rock nonsense!)and most of these "guided" courses are at least,if not more,credible(AMGA certified or accredited),better teacher/student ratios and cheaper than a NOLS/Outward Bound courses.I would agree it is better to send your son to some sort of professional,either way>

I have Cloudveil's Serendipity jacket and except for the rain mentioned above, the jacket is the best piece of inner/outer wear that I own(the most versatile,for sure!). What makes Schoeller fabrics so great,is the fact that there durable (if abraded,they maintain unaffected wind/water RESISTANCE (not wind/water PROOF!),they're much more tear resistant and breath much better than wind block fleece. I would say to stay away from the stuff with the laminate, as this will decrease the durability.Nuff said?

Wy'East is SE facing aspect so be careful! This slope can be quite avi-prone; Leuthold and Sandy Headwall have large open slopes(except for the hourglass in Leuthold), so STABILITY needs to be paramount here!

Have to agree with JayB on the Cloudveil jacket! I've loved mine since I bought it.Schoeller is creating some kick ass materials!What about Petzl tibloc? Using 2 for a simple z-pulley system is quick and light. Oh, and my sexy susie blow up doll...never mind.

OR's standard gaitor is ok, but I must agree that the rest of there stuff is junk. Is anyone out there willing to admit that they were a big enough idiot to buy one of their 'Seattle Sombrero's'. OR stands for Overlooked Research.

Yo,epb! Why yes,my name really is Richard(Dick, to myfriends)Pumpington; international man of mysteryand intrigue! The climber formerly known as Richard Gozinya. See the Dick, feel the Dick, be the Dick!

Yo,epb! Why yes,my name really is Richard(Dick, to myfriends)Pumpington; international man of mysteryand intrigue! The climber formerly known as Richard Gozinya. See the Dick, feel the Dick, be the Dick!

He must not be able to read, because the guidebook lists that climb as not very noteworthy and a BIG pile of choss!