Richard_Pumpington

You'll need a rope for the glacier, but no pro forthe summit. The top was 4th class, with a coupleof low 5th class moves at best. The glacier had somegaping crevasses on it though. [ 04-03-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

I too worked at REI several years ago and it is a frustrating place to work, for several reasons. 1) they only carry a small assortment of climbing gear (except the flagship stores and Anchorage); this assortment is fine for total beginners, or for people buying gifts 2)they don't pay enough to keep knowledgeable people to stick around(that's why I left), which is why you get Captain Couch Potatoe talking out his ass about gear 3) they're more interested in selling crap like mountain(skate) boards, scooters,fishing equipment and becoming the next Eddie Bauer 4) do you know which competitors they're worried about? Not Climb Axe, not Mountain Gear, not Marmot Mountain Works, but stores like G.I. Joes,Gallions and places that sell basic camping equipment(that should tell you something). Remember when REI used to make their own equipment that was worthy of taking on an expedition? Back in the day of Lloyd Anderson and Jim Whittaker? The company has been slowly divorcing itself from its roots and is not going to stop. They were even talking about selling golf equipment! Real climbers don't shop at REI anymore, because REI has turned their back to them!

Hey Will, You going to warm up for your Yosemite trip withanother "onsight" ascent of the Reid Glacier Headwall?

R&I, I would suggest Kautz Glacier Icefall. A couple ofreasons for this are - 1)Camp Hazard is the highestestablished camp on the mountain(shorter summit day)2)fewer crowds 3)fewer crevasses than DC or Emmons4)short approach(via Paradise) and did I mention thefewer crowds? It's a good route and affords you a niceposition on the mountain, unless you like to climbwith your buddies and a couple hundred of Big Lou'sclosest friends. My $.02.

Is this "ice" that's near Portland above or below the 5.11 A3 sandstone, that you were trolling for someone to lead for you?

Will Strickland, You obviously are not familiar with the strength tolerancesof a Wall Hauler. Rock Exotica clearly specified thatthis device NOT be used with live loads, as a climberwith a pack (and possibly sled) will be too close tothe failure point of the unit(I talked to them aboutthis). Petzl bought Rock Exotica and have come out withtwo devices that are meant to be used for "live" loads:one is called the "Mini Traxion" and the other one the"Pro Traxion". DO NOT use a "Wall Hauler"! Yeah, theGarda is lightweight, but it reduces your mechanicaladvantage. If you want a super lightweight and efficientsystem, try 2 locking biners, 2 Petzl Tiblocs and 1 pulley; bets are, that I could have this system setup while you were still putting your prusiks on therope; carry some leg loops and a sling and this turnsit into your self rescue system. All you really needto practice crevasse rescue is a 10+ ft. embankmentfor your "z" system and a tree/overhanging route topractice your self rescue, or sit around and wait forthe crevasses to open. [ 03-24-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

Yo dkemp, I would suggest going earlier than later, for greaterease on many levels. My friends and I did the MuldrowTraverse this last year, and started the approach onApril 29th. Many of the reasons earlier is better include,Wonder Lake being frozen over, the McKinley River willbe much more shallow (shin deep for us), the smallerbraids will be frozen over, no bugs (too cold), lowerchance of bear encounters, easier travel and so on. Have fun on point 9240, the views will be amazing!By the way, W is one of the few people on this sitethat knows what the hell he's talking about. Have funin AK! [ 03-23-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

Why is it that this is all anyone wants to talk about?There are other good routes on Hood that seldomly seeascents(Cathedral Ridge,North Face,Sandy Headwall,etc..).More importantly there are other mountains in the statethat are fun and challenging to climb, with some worthyroutes on them. I'm sure it's the short and easy approachfrom Timberline Lodge that attracts ALMOST everyone, butthese people are missing out on a more wilderness experiencein some amazing settings. On Feb.12th I made an ascent ofthe West Rib of Mt.Jefferson, that was more satisfyingthan any of the 10 routes I've climbed on Hood. You knowwhat? My partner and I were the only people on the entiremountain! Anybody read Billy's post on the North Buttress of Broken Top? Anyone even know where that's at, or whatit's about? My point being that there's a lot of greatclimbing to be had, outside of the standard Mt.Hood traderoutes. These are some great winter options: Mt.Theilsen,Mt.Washington,Broken Top and Three Fingered Jack all have great winter routes on them, as well as the Three Sistersand Mt.Jefferson. Most climbing isn't afforded a year round,high access point, like Timberline Lodge, but then again,climbing isn't supposed to be easy. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

Nice pic, Picketeer! Now that's what I'm talking about; I bet that one stands out in your mind. Looks very similar to what I found on Jefferson. Party on! [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

Yeah, that makes sense. That's the approach we used as well. The lake is called Big Lake, by the way. The reason I asked, is that any approach other than this one, would be huge! I thought you may have used a different approach than that. Thanks!

Nelly,Which way did you approach the East Face in the winter?How long was the approach? Good job on the North Ridge inwinter! Rime can be a bit hairy at times.TFJ is the only one I haven't been into in the winter; Yet!for Jeff, we gave ourselves3 days for the climb, as we had to start our approachfrom Highway 22(that sucked!). First day made it to thetop of the approach gully for Milk Creek/West Rib, secondday climbed the rib(the rime on the pinnacle was a bitunconsolidated;not enough melt freeze yet)rapped off a bollardand descended to camp for the night and the third daywent out. I think the West Rib is a safer climb, becauseyou ar on a rib(low avi/rock/icefall danger) and theroute ends at the best place to climb the summit pinnacle(West Gully). A grueling, but very satisfying climb.Check Billy's post for another climb I did. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ] [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

With good enough coverage, it could be sweet; the approach could be big though. I've been in there in the winterwhen the entire mountain was fully coated and took a lookat the Chimney of Space(which in the right conditions couldbe awesome). I think in full ice(rime or alpine), even theNorth Ridge would be fun. As far as the approach, which inthe winter is large, something on the West Face/West Ridge or North Ridge, would be your best bet. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

I'm not saying that I haven't done/do this, but I don'tconcentrate my efforts here. Congrats on your Reid Headwallclimb Nelly, even though this is easy access, almostnobody climbs it and it does have some stout variations.It was refreshing to see someone post on anything otherthan the main 2. And yo, B-rock, no need to be so aggro.I was refering to the masses and you have to admit, thosetwo routes see way too much discussion. I'm not talkinglike I'm better than anyone else, just wondering whynobody tries anything else. [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

50 degrees? Your buddy is a kook. I'd tell him to stay away from any other route on the mountain, because they are all overhanging!

Holy shit,dude! Is that anywhere near the south side of Mt.Hood? No, maybe that's by Leuthold Couloir?

How about The Boardman/Tasker Omnibus? Great books!Also, no one has mentioned any John Roskelley books.If any of you enjoy Greg Childs writing, you have togive Roskelley a try; he's written 3 books - 1)NandaDevi:the tragic expedition 2)Stories Off the Wall and3)Last Days(where he climbs Menlungste with Child)These guys write in a fashion that truly entertains(unlike some authors ie. Diemberger,Messner,etc..)

Just a couple weeks late response to his "Two guysnamed Dick" post. Every time I make a serious entry,he just chimes in with unsolicitated spew. And since he has done nothing to earn my respect, hedoesn't get any from me; I'm 36(I hate to admit), sohe wasn't doing anything I wasn't doing at the sametime.Cheers! [ 02-23-2002: Message edited by: Richard Pumpington ]

BEOTCH!

Trask, Back from the topic of "Trask's Anger Management Program", a quote from you;"You always seem to be a mean spirited son of a bitch(most of the time).There could be some love here, Dick. You make the first move."Remember that? Or are you smoking the good B.C. bud?Heinouscling spews nothing but shit my way, so fuck'em! So you say you like tongue darts?

All you seem to hear some people post about is how"Dan Larson sucks"(he's cool with me, personally), but Crazyjz sucks and blows. Never posts anything worth a shit, ever. Crazyjz, give it the tongue dart like you always do!

Hey Trask, What the f**k were you crying about me always rippingyou? That's all you seem to do! Or do we have to comeover there, take what climbing equipment you do haveand give it to a real climber?

Anuscling, I won't call you a knucklehead, but I will call you a dumbass! Lick it like you always do!

Um, gaitors.

Um, thank you; thank you very much!(best Elvis impression I can muster up)

Trial and experience is a great way for everything except for avalanche forecasting and wilderness medicine. Courses are a good way to meet other climbing partners, if you don't know anyone else. And climbing clubs? See the various posts on the validity of that proposition.