SEF

Congrats on a fine report on a fine effort and for getting back down without incident.

I just sent the WSDOT a message letting them know I disapprove of using salt on the highways. They make it easy to do, just use this form: http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/contact/feedback.htm [ 11-25-2002, 09:30 PM: Message edited by: SEF ]

I plan to go. Current Redmond forecast: Thu Nov 28 Partly Cloudy 50°/24° 0 % Fri Nov 29 Partly Cloudy 51°/25° 10 % Sat Nov 30 Partly Cloudy 51°/24° 10 % Sun Dec 01 Partly Cloudy 49°/24° 10 %

Isn’t something missing here? Given that Mtn Dude did say that the anchor is for a TR, then it seems to me that the other end of the anchor rope that Ian’s picture does not show, would have some kind of knot, with biners, and another rope going through them for the actual TR. So the anchor rope would already have a knot as its weak point rendering the high strength tie off at the tree of no extra value. Ian’s second suggestion with webbing, for a TR anchor, is the way I’d go.

The geniuses at our very own Washington State Department of Transportation will begin use of an experimental road de-icer this winter - get this - SALT Fortunately, it will be used in only a couple places. http://www.access.wa.gov/news/article.asp?name=n0211107.htm

This story is just another example of the motorized recreation friendly Bush Administration reversing the direction of Department of the Interior that had recommended banning. Hardly a surprise. FYI, with the daily average number of snowmobiles entering Yellowstone at 840, the limit of 1,100 would affect only the volume of peak holiday usage. http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/articles/A40711-2002Nov11.html

OK, I’ll bite. Highlights, in no particular order: • Liberty Bell group in a day, i.e; Liberty Bell/Overexposure + N Face Concord + N Face Lexington + W Face NEWS + W Buttress of SEWS in a day. • Clean Break on Juno Tower • Burgner Stanley on Prussik in a day, amidst snowstorm on last 2 pitches & on rap • Climbing fun, easy stuff with my daughter who is a teenager new to climbing. • Meeting new partner who can lead far harder shit than I Disappointments: • Toasting, twice, the engine in my VW van on the way to, or returning from, climbs.

quote: Originally posted by Bronco: Heres a link to SCW web cam. http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/wenatchee/misc/snowcreek.html As of November 4, 2002 ---- 8:30 AM when checked on 11/13. How often is this updated? Does not seem real useful for checking current weather.

Stefan, I commend you for returning again to clarify. The result is a clearer, if still incomplete understanding. I fully understand that you will find revisiting the subject sensitive, but assure you that clarity, not criticism, is my goal. You have some rather daunting injuries, not all of which are physical. I hope you find some comfort that your efforts in posting here will help others. I know I will certainly think of you when I inspect my next rap anchor. Still unanswered is the question of whether the sling that failed is missing. If, as you seem to suggest, its original location was outside the frame in the posted picture, then we cannot know from that. Obviously, finding that sling would be key to determining the failure mechanism. Your description of the sling inspection that you made before the downclimb omits any mention of the knot that was used or the length of its tails, which rather stands out to me. I do know that the water knot is prone to creep, especially over repeated weight and un-weight cycles, especially in very supple tubular webbing. Once the tail enters the knot itself, the knot can suddenly fail without warning when weighted. Other rappelling accidents have resulted from such failure. I can't say that is what occured here, but it is a strong possiblity.

I would also like to see how they are forecasting the temps over that same time span. Less than normal precip but with consistently low freezing levels could still make for a decent snowpack. High freezing levels could compound the problem. Even so, it is too early to sweat the forecasters.

What, exactly, are you seeking? I am familiar with the approach, this summer, as far as Juno Tower.

I’ve been quietly following this thread, and remain disturbed. The lack of a clear explanation makes it harder to “move on.” We all want to avoid this ourselves, but what exactly is there to avoid? We seek to know what failed here so we can be more vigilant about checking for that possibility before committing to future anchors. Anchors simply do not fail and then appear just fine on inspection afterward. The picture does not show what failed. It shows several slings, with knots that appear to still be in place, but the sling actually used for the rap rope is not identified. Was it missing? Clearly something failed, yet those who inspected evidence remaining on the scene are saying nothing there appears to have failed. That contradiction remains bothersome. At this point, I do take from this the lesson that using more than one sling to anchor a rappel is prudent. Where a bunch of slings are available, I’ll use as many as possible, inspect closely, and perhaps even fortify them with a new one of my own. I add my best wishes to Stefan for a speedy and full recovery.

A little point of clarification on what others have said: The Mountaineers MOFA course costs $85 for Mountie members and $100 for nonmembers. Instructors are volunteers like remlec. The fee includes the Red Cross first aid books. “Wilderness First Responder” is a first aid course sanctioned by the Wilderness Medical Associates, is offered by a number of organizations, and will vary in the range of 60 to 75 hours of instruction. Many guide services require it. A Wilderness EMT course is also offered. Perhaps the most important part of such training is learning a methodology to use in accident scenarios, and well worth the money spent.

The bridge has been out for nearly a year. Your approach options are 1) wade river, 2) Tyrolean traverse on steel cable just upstream, or 3) cross suspension bridge upstream at The Bend and hike 30 minutes or so on trail. Wading is fastest if the water level is low. Royal Columns is sometimes closed for raptor nesting in the spring, although it is usually opened in April or so.

Off White was singing the praises of the VW Van some posts back. I own one myself. But when I recently ran into the Captain Nemo version, I thought that this was just the ticket for those water approaches to Banks Lake climbs I’ve heard about. The downside is navigating in traffic with the periscope.

After a recent attic trip, I ended up browsing the “Rock Climbing Leavenworth and Index a guide” by Rich Carlstad and Don Brooks, copyright 1976. Forgot I had it. It makes for interesting reading, especially ratings compared to the latest guides. Some climbs are still rated the same, but many are not. Those that are not are most always rated easier then than now. For your entertainment, here are some selected routes from the Leavenworth section: Castle Rock Damnation Crack 5.8 Dan’s Dreadful 5.10+ Crack of Doom 5.8+ Midnight Rock Easter Overhang 5.9 Nightengale 5.10 A0 South Ramp 5.9 Wasp 5.10 Snow Creek Wall Outer Space 5.8+ Remorse 5.8 Peshastin Bomb Shelter 5.10+ Butter Brickle 5.8+ Lightning Crack 5.8+ Vertigo 5.7+ Nothing in the book is rated higher than 5.10+. Only Snow Creek Wall is listed up the Icicle although today's most popular roadside TR's were popular even then. As you probably knew, the trend does seem to be toward rating the same climbs harder over time.

quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: No. The rumor was that The Mountaineers is really a dating service for people that drive Jeep Cherokees. Clearly a 1980's rumor. They drive Japanese SUV's now.

Originally posted by Retrosaurus: quote: You must have been looking for the Seattle Mountaineers.Seattle? As opposed to some other branch of the Mountaineers, I presume? You fell for the rumor that the female gender ratio there is larger than cc.com. Originally posted by ruski82: quote: climbing? huh? what's that? boy did I stumble into the wrong placeBased on post volume on non climbing subjects, climbing appears to be only a minor interest on this board, easily topped by dietary concerns. [ 10-31-2002, 09:24 AM: Message edited by: SEF ]

I was thinking along the lines of Ted as well. Get the press to make some noise. I think now is very timely to get on it. With the sniper news and Tacoma connection, the local press, you would think, should be all over shooting near misses like this occurring in their back yard. The added angle is that authorities indicate this is business as usual in this part of the county. Oh really? Terrorism is tolerated in some parts of the county more than others, is it?

Just looked at the pictures. Wow. Unbelievable. Has the world ratcheted up a notch in craziness lately? Is getting to or from the trailhead now as dangerous as outside activity in suburban DC recently was? I'm really glad no one was hurt and hope the guilty are soon caught.

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: dude; you must have been fast - you were off the ice before we even got on. saw the other two dudes, though. i think they were on pitch two or three when we started up. my first ice climb ended with a bang! "Ended with a bang?" Uh, with no incentive to drag out the trip until the wee hours of the morning, I think I was back to the car and in search for a latte before you got on. (I posted my exit itinerary elsewhere in defense of aspersions being cast by erik). [ 10-28-2002, 01:49 PM: Message edited by: SEF ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: you know what makes me kinda wonder...is that the only other reported activity in the area was...Steve Firebaugh.....hmmmmmm after meeting him at the rope up, i wouldnt imagine him being the type to drive his vw vanagon around shooting into vehicles along side the road....but now i wonder?????hmmmmmm he seems strangly silent on the gun topic too...... steve are there secrets??? detective erik, I agree that the Col’s TR is a rather curious and elaborate story. Notice the timing of the trip, the seemingly a long drawn out defense for the need for midnight roadside R&R, and LG’s own references to the trip using terms “spanked” and “exciting”? Hmmm..... I think you can draw your own conclusions. While I had soloed the same route earlier in the day, I never saw another party I could identify as our two climbers desperate for a roadside wink. I had exited the TH around 1:45 (PM, not AM), and stopped in Carbonado in an unsuccessful search for a good latte. I was at home eating pizza, drinking beer, and watching a bad Bruce Willis movie around the time the Col says they topped out. The only “high caliber” ammunition I own are 22cm ice screws.

Soloed Observation Rock Saturday. Cloudless, cool and frosty. Saw a party of 2 climbing up the glacier around E of the N Face as I was stumbling down the talus.

Regarding ice screw placement, Black Diamond has done some research: http://www.hi.is/~haraldg/isskrufu_paelingar.html Tilting the screw placement down from perpendicular is the current advice for placing BD threaded screws in “ideal ice conditions.” While such ice remains somewhat intuitive, the paper above does describe what that means. An excerpt about test results: quote: What we observed is that the direction of loading is significantly stronger. In fact, at 15 degrees from perpendicular the screws are over two times stronger when placed in the direction of load. [ 10-28-2002, 03:09 AM: Message edited by: SEF ]

from mattp: quote: Focus not on the dimension of your rope or the strength of your 'biners, but on placing good protection and avoiding leader falls on anything less than unquestionnable pro with a fall-zone free of things that might hurt you. I wholeheartedly concur on this. The real trick, though, is in consistent execution.