I'd like to present an olive branch to those on this board. I've been reading posts and see many critical comments. Constructive dialog promotes better relationships. Perhaps I can confirm truths and dispel myths. I'll start with an invitation.
We invite members of this board to our Alpinists meetings. The next one will be April 11, at the Mountaineers building, and will feature Canadian guidebook author Kevin McLane, and is free. We envision the Alpinists to provide a forum for experienced climbers to meet others, and to share their stories. Many members on this board are very experienced climbers with valuable contributions.
Some here have commented on our use of Spire Rock or Camp Long. Both these facilities can be reserved, and a fee is charged for group use. If you are concerned about a large group being at those facilities when you want to visit, checking with the facility is best, as any number of organizations besides the Mountaineers could have reserved it: Boy Scouts, church groups, youth groups, schools, and more. (If the participants arrived in yellow school buses, they were not on a Mountaineer Climbing Course).
We have a long, cooperative history with Camp Long that includes help to maintain those park facilities we use with many hundreds of man-hours of donated work. Earlier this year, Camp Long was closed on weekends and our program paid to have it staffed and open for both our field trips and the general public. Camp Long is a public facility open to all and we do strive to give back to it.
Blaming the crowds on the Mountaineers or any other group is symptomatic of the frustration that the crags are getting increasingly crowded. The trouble is, even if the Mountaineers went away, the crowding would still occur. Face it; the sport is growing much faster than the Mountaineers. Ever been to Vertical World on a winter weekday evening? Sunshine wall on March weekends? Then you've seen the crowds. Our sport has a vacuum between the number of people who desire to climb and avenues available for them to learn how. As predictable as the laws of physics, something will fill that vacuum.
How can we cooperate? What can members of this message board usefully do to ease the congestion on local facilities? A few immediate steps can be taken. Seattle public officials need to hear that you want Schurman Rock fixed or replaced. A public park is proposed under I-5 at Eastlake in Seattle. A climbing facility is an option for part of this space. Such a structure could be covered and dry year around. I am told that dog owners and trail bike riders have lobbied for space for their interests, but the climbing community has been comparatively quiet. I’d urge you to speak up about your interests beyond this board in places where you can make a difference.
We share your concern about large party sizes on climbs. Our normal party size limit on our Basic Rock Climbs is 6, not the 10-12 mentioned on this board. Glacier climbs can have up to 12, but will be less in certain circumstances. Our typical party on an Intermediate Rock climb is 4. Note that on the Tooth and a few other popular climbs, on any summer weekend, you will likely find a crowd even if no Mountaineer party shows up. A common reaction I have witnessed is to label most any large climbing party as Mountaineers. We get the "credit", whether deserved or not.
We limit the size of our courses, often to the consternation of some who do not get in. At the close of registration we usually have to turn away several dozens of applicants. 10 to 20 years ago we did not turn away so many folks and the courses were even larger. We also do our best to offer each Basic Student an experienced mentor to meet and work with them through the course. The mentor may also take them on climbs. Through such mentoring we try to give the course a personal feel.
I personally know a large number of our climb leaders. In my experience, they are polite and respectful of other climbing parties -- and ready to come to their aid if needed. If you have an experience that is otherwise, please let me know, personally, with dates, locations and names, and I will look into it. We will welcome constructive feedback on current encounters, as they happen, not from the distant past, to make sure that the experience remains a positive one for all. We will learn from your constructive feedback.
For those interested in our events, course schedules or climbs that have been scheduled, please check our climbing website at
http://www.mountaineers.org/climbing/
Thank you for reading this.
Best regards,
Steve FirebaughSeattle Climbing Committee ChairThe Mountaineers
