epb

You and 5 lonely Koreans on a bivy meant for 3??? Hmmm...I didn't know you were into kinky shit Lambone.

Lambone did you just sit there silent with your arms folded as that dude clipped to your pieces and passed you or what? I could give a shit if I team passed me, but if the fucker started pushing his way past and clipping into my gear without asking he would be taking a long fall very quickly. That attitude shouldn't be allowed to fly on a wall. BTW pope I agree with you about climbing with respect to your family. I think it is uncool to be putting yourself out on the edge when you have the responsibilities of a family.

Listen to Marcus. Putting up some steep walls is a must on a wall that size. You'll get much more out of a step wall than you will with a vertical wall. Oh and litter it with holds (good holds, get a variety of brands as well...I did), so you have plenty of variation. Every companies holds are of a different material and texture, so if you buy from a few it's kkind of like climbing on a variety of rock. Building a wall is a lot easier than people think, as long as you have the right space. WHen I was 12 I built a monster of a wall in my parents garage. On one side of teh garage the supports were exposed on the main wall and the roof. So all I had to do was just screw a bunch of 3/4" plywood, with plenty of t-nuts allready pounded in, onto the wall and I was set. The wall was a monster for a home gym. The main wall was basically 16x16 and had two roofs, both started at 8 feet, one was completely parallel to the ground and ran out about 15ft and the uper roof went straight to the ceiling at about 120 degrees or something. It was sick. Had it riged with ropes and everything. Living in central Ny at the time it was he only place to climb for hours. To bad the new owners of the house destroyed it . [ 12-08-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

I argee with pope. However, I don't see any need into get into an ethical "to bolt or not to bolt" debate though. unfortunetly they seem to be here to stay. Pope did bring back some earlier memories for me though. When I first started to lead and learned how to aid, my mates and I used to go in to the adirondacks and just pick out a cliff and a fun looking route up and just climb. It was the shit. Most of the routes I'm sure had allready been climbed, but to us it was like we were pioneering the whole wall let alone the indvidual route. If we got stuck, either the section was too sketchy or impossible to do without traditional pro, we would retreat. We would retreat and attempt alternative routes or pitches till we made it to the top. Plus that way, if you retreated from a 5.4 you would never know it, and your ego would still be intact. It was a fun way to climb.

What's up with tapping high pressure water on ice routes. When is this a danger? or how can you know if it is a potential hazard on a route. I can't find anything about this in any books...other than an accident report of some dude getting blown off a route in the Adirondacks on a 15'x15' piece of ice, cause he tapped into some high pressure water lurking under the route.

Is Masters of Stone 5 worth checkin out? I normally don't watch climbing videos. Mainly cause I'm not willing to throw down 30 bucks to buy one, and neither are any of my mates...so we never get to set our eyes on any. The content looks sick though. I really want to check out the dean potter footage. Are there better things to be spending the money on or what? or better yet, anyone know where to get a copy cheap or want to dub me a copy or would that would be against federal regulations

The Cheam Range in BC? Naah I've only been to BC once and that was on a ski holiday to Whistler.

Yeah I hear ya trask...however you forgot to add one of these to your last post [ 12-07-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

Yeah I guess it all depends on the climb. I admit it though...I'm a hazard Oh well. Next topic.

BTW I did pass when they were breaking, or when all of them were at one belay that is. In a gulley like pinacle it isn't that safe to have people climbing above you, I agree. However we were all stuck up there (my fault I guess, cause I didn't see them on the climb before I started), but I sure as hell didn't want to be climbing under these 3 yahoos. Fuck em. Whatever. >>but would hang back on say Liberty Ridge on Rainier or the North Ridge on Baker, unless I took a totally different line, or passed them at a break<< Even if you pass them at a break...isn't the hazard though just being above them? I guess that is what I'm trying to get at, since I did pass them accordingly. However they seemed to be pissed at me just climbing above them. [ 12-07-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

It does have to be kind of embarassing when you have enough gear around your shoulder to climb el cap, and a kid flys past you and your buddies with nothing but a pair of running shoes clipped to his drawers. I'm not a big fan of corwding anyone in teh backcoutry though, where there is the possiblity of avalaches or ice falls. Hell I didn't want to be climbing under those idiots as much as they didn't want to be climbing under me. It just happened. I was just wondering if there is some ethics I should be following, cause I'm going back this winter and don't want to step on anyone's shit as I weave my way up and down the ravine.

yeah, just make sure your "honey" doesn't see this.... http://www.lexicomm.com/whites/ice/pic34.html

I do a decent amount of soloing, both rock and ice. Mostly long classics that I have done a good amount of times before. However, since most routes I solo are classics there are usually hoards of people and rope teams on them. On rock it's usually not a problem passing groups, and no one seems to care about my presence on the wall. However, on alpine/ice routes it seems to be a bit different. Last year I was soloing the pinnacle gulley in huntington ravine on Mt. Washington. Half way up I came across a group of three climbers. Had I seen them on the route before I started climbing I probally would have chosing a different route, but I didn't see them. They made quite a fuss when I wanted to pass them. They claimed I was a hazard to them. Regardless, I passed them anyways. They were pissed, seriously pissed....we got in a pretty good sized confrontation down at the base of the ravine later on. It wasn't cool. So is this different than any rope team following or passing another team? Thinking back though...I can't remember ever passing any teams or being on the same route as any rope teams while I was roped up before, at least on such a confined route like those at Huntingtons Ravine. So what's up here? Is climbing up on a team in an alpine setting crazy wrong or what? (BTW avalanche conditions were extremely low that day). [ 12-07-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

BTW that is intresting about Sir Edmond Hillary. I read a quote from Messner some where as well, that went something like "if I can't plan it on a piece of paper, I don't want to climb it." This was referring to all the major contemporary expeditions on everest (and teh use of labtops). This goes more with what I was getting at above though...about all the fuss on expeditions and what not.

>>Big deal...I went to the Aerosmith concert, got invited to a private party, and had me wanker abused muchly by many groopie chicks.<< Trask your my hero! Too bad they were washed up aerosmith groupies though...probally had cobwebs between their legs and wiskers on their chins. Whatever though, you still got a rub and a tug.

beats me man, it was a while ago. I'm not too good with names but it was pretty wicked though.

I heard Dan Larson is Lambone's father..he's old enough to be. However, does that make lambone my grandson?

Is there really no difference between an animal carrying your shit or some poor porter shleping it?

That's rough lambone. Now I'm done for. . However in 6 more months I'll me living in Nepal once again, and then I'll be laughing . BTW what's up with Dan Larson trying to Spray me? You got no business spraying your father, son.

Dead lifts are killer for your grip I agree. I used to do dead lifts when I was lifting. Also shoulder shrugs (for your traps)...when I first starting doing these, my grip would go before my traps would feel any work. Everyone told me to use straps to take the weight of my hands...I didn't, and my grip got amazingly stronger withing a few months just from having to hols the weight and shrug with it.

Oh yeah, the girl I was talking about above, was a dancer....and exotic dacer though. However, she also was into ballet and all the other kinds of dance I know nothing about.

>>I got a gut jam this summer in a chimney<< I guess a beer belly does have its uses

clever Trask

yeah but you need some special shit to drill through plaster with so it doesn't all chip off and fall apart (as I found out that happens when I was hanging some pictures ) ...it's not the same as drilling through dry wall. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

nice site chuck. Keep it up!