epb

That's impressive man. Congrates. This ones for you!

Shit I didn't know smoking blunts would get me up a 5.14a. Word to that. You know where it would be poosible to catch that film anywhere else but at the fest (online maybe?). The baniff page only had a trailer.

I heard this year the dykes will be mud wrestling

what's wrong woth the Banif Film Festival? I've never been, but it always looked like it would be a good time. Did anyone catch that film "Berzerker" about that Norweign kid sailing to Antartica on some suicide mission, I guess it won the climbers choice award. I was wondering what the story was with that kid's mission.

But if the porters go on strike how will I get the jacuzzi to basecamp? or the 3 swedish models I hired? not to mention the month supply of brew haha on tap I'm bringing to K2.

I think Dan Larson is stoned as well.

agreed...or just they're just puss wankers who couldn't pull anything off without them carrying all their shit, so they justify hiring them for that 2 dollars a week by claiming it to be in the name of economic prosperity (for the sherpas that is). [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

what's your point caveman?

No offense lambone...but I hate the ideal that tourism = economic prosperity. At least in countries where the land and environment are rich. First off because a countries economic prosperity and modernization does not necessarily mean health and well being for its people. I would hate to see the beauty and culture of Nepal modernized into a land fill we consider the first world. Look at Thailand, perfect example of what modernization and tourism (not necessarily interrelated) can do to a country...sure it gave some wealth to the country, however it also gave extreme poverty to the country as well since the wealth was not evenly distributed...and it never will be in any case. Then look at Laos which is nearly equivalent to what Thailand was 100 years go...when compared I believe it is obviously apparent what modernization and tourism can do for a country...destroy it. As far as the whole thing about talking to kids in Nepal and asking them whether they would want to live in an America or a modernized Nepal rather than their current Nepal....of course they would say America or give a thumbs up to modernization. America is a pipe dream for them, just as it was for early (and current) refugees. However, what did and do refugees find when they come to America...more poverty. The Hmong refugees I work with here are a perfect example...everyone of them that is old enough to remember their home in Asia before the war had once were sold on the fantasy of America and the luxurious lifestyle that modernization could offer. However, today there are few who would not give up everything they had here to go back to their old ways. Unfortunately that is impossible for them now. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

I was refering to weight training as working with proper weights. Your right my "program" is in fact a "weight training program," it just doesn't use any weights (weights as is the big black steel things at the gym). >>How ELSE would someone be able to train into endurance chins and pullups without at some point doing 4-8 reps<< If one can only do 4 reps for chins or pullups that is what they should do, until they are able to do high rep sets (however if using weights...lower the weight used) . Therefore in this manner yes it is a necessary phase that one will probally go through, and ok in my book. However I was refering to the addition of weight or heavy weight training to lower the reps for strength training. BTW I never weight any chins or use a pack on hills. [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

BTW...4-8 reps is all good if you want to be an ox. You'll be able to carry a 100 pound pack but your going to lack endurance and muscle stength in proportion to your body weight. When I was lifting hard I could bench 315 and was still lean, however I couldn't do more than 3 pullups and could barely handle a 30 minute run at a 9 min pass. I put on tons of muscle mass and anerobic strength but I considered myself out of shape. Now I'm weighing in at 170lbs and I'm 6'1"...by laying off the weights and working out with my body weight so to speak (push ups, pull ups, dips and situps) and running I am now in better shape for climbing than ever. Be careful with the weight training regimines out there, most personal trainers and programs your mates may be on are probally not best suited for a climbers interest. They will mostly focus on aesthetics. Getting fit is not as much as a science as it seems to be. I was a personal trainer for 3 years (before I quit to be a rock instrutor ), and out of all the programs I went through for years I now found the basics to work wonders. Oh yeah...eating healthy is key, but no need to skimp on the beer. I don't [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

In climbing (rock, ice, or alpine) your legs are more in a battle with muscle endurance than brute stregth it seems. I find running hills, stairs or the stadium in general to work best for me in terms of anerobic leg training. However, I spend most of my time doing long distances to build up my enduracnce (muscle and cardio). Pushups, Pull ups, Chin ups, Sit ups, Dips + Running (with anerobic hill traning) will get you in better shape than any weight training program in my opinion...but then again that is just my opinion.

I just wanted to say....light weight unsupported expeditions not only equal minimal impact but less fuss. Minimal impact is important no doubt, but the less fuss is what I was looking for. I just want to climb as hard possible with the littlest amount of shit to deal with other than what the mountains have to offer. It's not about being hardcore or gnarly...the less responsibilies ann shit you have to deal with the easier and more enjoyable a trip/climb will be. So the orignal question I had still remains...how unsupported can major himayalan expedition be, how light can one go so to speak on an 8,000m+ mountain? [ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

[ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

Yeah sorry, I edited that post...I miss read your post. You are right [ 12-05-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

Adding negatives just means using something for assistance or "cheating." i.e. putting one foot on the floor for a little aid when you are gettig tired...doing this allows you to increase reps, it's like lower the weight of what your lifting (in this case you!) [ 12-05-2001: Message edited by: epb ] [ 12-05-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

genic....that sounds like crap to me. However, it does make for a good excuse .

I was also wondering what was the average number of chins or pullups most climbers could pull off. Especially those that can do a one arm. I can do about 20 or so pull ups and even more chin ups, but can barely support my body weight on one arm. What's up with all you doing one arms? Anyone have the balls to give out there stats? Just wondering.

Stuff works great so far as I can tell. I have a pair of SD pants and a jacket made out of Genesis 3.0. No worries yet. Goretex is over rated.

Keep it up. Nice photos!

yeah...snipers and boobytraps

Cheers guys. I think I'll just keep my current pants as spares and buy myself the bibs. I always wanted a pair. Plus they are 10 bucks cheaper [ 12-02-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

Can anyone lay out the pros and cons of pants vs. bibs? (for backcountry and climbing use) I've been using pants forever, now I'm looking at getting a new pair. Wondering if bibs would a better route to go. Bibs seem like they would be more comfortable with a harness, and keep the powder from going up your back when you crash (as I do a lot). What's the down side though? Is there one?

farm ice?