sexual_chocolate

I've heard before that 6 mo's is a fair amount of time to allow someone to try their FA project. I tend to agree with this time-frame. I'd say it goes for a trad line someone discovered and spent some time cleaning, to a sport climb they equipped. There have been cases I've heard of where the equipper tried to assert "territorial rights" years after bolting, and this is bs. It's mainly public property we're all dealing with here, and giving 6 mo's of "private rights" to someone is really just a courtesy; I think it's selfish to *expect* more. btw, i don't think there is any sort of "ground up" ethic at vantage, beyond what the late bill robins tried to endorse.

hah. depends on the climb. there are sand-bags even at vantage.

are boyko and brett and that clan in that age group? they're doig pretty good outside....

if it's the one i'm thinking of, mastodon roof is awesome fun. up towards givler's dome, a 20' horizontal roof, with fun moves to exit. doesn't really climb as a crack though; more of a super-steep jug haul. 11c.

it's the bolted line 30' left of spaghetti sauce, through blocky face climbing and progressively steeper to a seam with flaring pods up near the top. maybe 20 degrees overhanging near the top. pull the loose anchor bolt and leave the other one (a good place for a last bolt), and add two down lower!

Is this because of the rock issues, or because the bolt was placed incorrectly? my thought is that any purely mechanical bolt will slowly loosen because of the decomposing and granular nature of this particular crag. on shitty concrete, we have significantly OVERDRILLED the hole and used an epoxy bolt to keep the bond stresses between the wall holes and the epoxy plug as minimal as possible...you basically are "rebuilding" the local area with an epoxy grout.... freeze thaw will fuck you though...the advantage of a slip cone for mechanical bond is that its "adjustable" in the sense that the bolt can be retightened to account for slop in the system...one way to hedge this is to increase the length of embedment for either system... good points. i imagine then that a 4" minimum 3 or 5 piece 3/8th's would be a good starting point when the rock's like this stuff.... yeah it was kinda strange to see a bolt and hanger come flying out of the rock on tr! the first thought through my head was "what about the anchors?" (which really shouldn't even be over the lip where they are, since the last moves are no gimme, and there are decent cold shuts up higher).

Is this because of the rock issues, or because the bolt was placed incorrectly? my thought is that any purely mechanical bolt will slowly loosen because of the decomposing and granular nature of this particular crag.

I am a bit unsure what you mean by epoxy reinforced. I have always thought that bolts that work via some mechanical principle shouldn’t be epoxied because doing so can inhibit the mechanical action. That said if you use an epoxy suitable for a glue-in bolt what you are really doing is turning a mechanical device into a chemically bonded one which is probably ok just an inefficient use of dollars. If the wrong epoxy is used you might simply be creating a time bomb. i'm not aware of the contra-indications with mech bolts and epoxy, and have never used the combo. seems to me if the wedge can be activated in the presence of epoxy, this approach would be superior to a simple epoxy bolt.... anyway, because of the rock issues at this crag, a one piece wedge bolt seems to be an unsafe approach.

yeah bolts looked great. pretty new and shiny, 3/8". only 2" or 2.5" in length though. i think the route is referred to as "the beast", a project as far as i know. it's on the short overhanging road-facing wall left of a route called "spaghetti sauce". the rock is somewhat decomposing and granular, so any bolt placed there should be epoxy-reinforced. it does bring into question the integrity of hardware, all of which should be checked occasionally and any deficiencies pointed out in forums such as this. there is at least one other bolt on the route besides the anchor bolt that also moves.

Head's up: we were climbing on a crag at the base of Icicle Buttress, and a friend pulled a bolt while falling on top-rope. It was clipped as a directional on a steep route, so that tells you about the integrity of the bolt. I then checked the anchor bolts, and one of them wiggled. Anyways, head's up on bolts. They might not be as safe as you assume.

a big congrats to you, buddy! :kisss: awesome send!

oh i been a sucka for so long.

a reporter for a particular newspaper is guilty of malfeasance in 1932. it makes sense to dismiss anything in that newspaper oh, even 75 years later. i'm not really responding to this, am i? i haven't been arguing these pointless inanities here before, have i? case of mistaken identity.

Every peace gesture like expanding the settlements in disputed areas and israel's continued violation of UN dictates? you, as always, are nothing but a hypocritical bag of hot air, living with the consequences of your own rage.

And Honest! 4gqaw5UnHA4

i've been crankin lately. Solution A revolutionary rock shoe developed specifically for bouldering. Whatever technical problem the rock presents, the “Solution” rock shoe gives you the support you need with the most innovative technology to overcome the boulder move. The upper uses Lock Harness System® technology, which hugs the foot from the inside and combines with the unique deep heel-cups to ensure maximum flexibility when hooking, on incuts and overhangs. The randing system P3® (Permanent Power Platform) is the active part of the shoe which gives it its versatility and works in synergy with the base of the foot to spread and maintain tension through time. The innovative Fast Lacing System® combined with the tongue in elasticized fabric ensures optimal adjustment of the internal volume. gotta say though that these are probly the best bouldering shoes i've ever worn. they did stretch a little, so in hind-sight i woulda bought half size smaller. i don't think i'd ever use 'em for roped climbing on anything less than 45 degrees overhung.

ahh, you DO look to the euros for guidance!

well said; it could be a start.

you evidently missed the blissful contemplative smile upon my lips as i posted....

I'm at a loss as to why we sent such a small diplomatic delegation for these important talks. At a minimum Carter should have been accompanied by Jim McDermott and Sean Penn. You guys can't possibly be this stone stupid. Carter's visit was approved by the State Department and undoubtedly sanctioned by the White House for its valuable information gathering purposes. Why would the White House not want to know what Hamas's plans, agenda, and interests are? "Defying Israel, Carter Meets Hamas Leader By ROBERT F. WORTH Published: April 19, 2008 DOHA, Qatar — Defying opposition from the Bush administration and Israel, former President Jimmy Carter met for several hours Friday night in Syria with the exiled leader of Hamas, the militant Islamist group, to discuss efforts to resolve the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. Mr. Carter also met earlier in the day with Bashar al-Assad, the Syrian president, as part of a Middle East peace tour that also includes visits to Israel, Egypt, Jordan and Saudi Arabia. The meeting with the Hamas leader, Khaled Meshal, took place under tight security in Damascus, the Syrian capital, and was closed to reporters. But it was said to have included talks about the fate of Cpl. Gilad Shalit, an Israeli soldier captured by Palestinian militants in 2006. State Department officials had advised Mr. Carter not to meet with leaders of Hamas, which is considered a terrorist organization by the United States, Israel and the European Union, responsible for kidnappings and for suicide bombings that have killed hundreds of Israelis. Several members of Congress made similar appeals." http://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/19/world/middleeast/19carter.html so there are a number of high level israelis who purportedly supported the meetings, since conversation and negotiation seems to be the only way to bring back the israeli war prisoner (imagine that!).

how can we as americans stand for these types of losses? if i can't hang testicles offa my truck in america, well it just ain't america anymore.

oh man, black people. can you believe them?

i think YOU should lose your passport. it's you and your ilk that are destroying this country, as evidenced by the last 8 years.

that's not the way the bonobos would do it. i say we let Khaled Mashaal mount GW.

hey, check out yer avatar boiiiiii. no shit on the lack of communication. that area's been fucked for years, and we want to approach it by ignoring the representatives of the people. methinks we don't want the situation to improve....