telemarker

Yep. There are two newish bolts that protect the first 30' of MW DD. The first bolt is one of those funky horizontal type hangars. The other one is new too. They should be left alone.

It's the bolt for MW Direcr Direct. I was there about a week ago and noticed no bolt that hasn't been there for years.

Route finding was a major concern.

Oh, so this climb is in the new guidebook? Cool.

Totally could have used a directional, as well as a three point, equalized anchor with a munter mule backup, matching chest harnesses to prevent upsidedown falls, a dedicated 11mm rope to prevent sheath abrasion, knee pads, helmets, two-way radios, PLB's, and a bolt kit. As it was, we were kinda sticking our asses way out there.

Dan sent classic first try, and followed up with Deception Crack and the smearing arete, first try as well. We're in trouble if his climbing abilty matches his skiing!

Has this TR achieved classic status yet?

Ask yourself if you're solid on 5.9 o/w, as there will be a good 25 to 30 foot runout between your last pro and the top, which takes good gear. Sure, it's a PIA to lug a 5" piece up the entire route, but it beats sketching and retreating. Take the big piece. You'll be having so much fun you won't even notice it in your pack.

I've always wanted to ski the Haute Route. Cool tour! Thanks for posting!

Keep the cam! At least it's getting some good use. It was gathering dust in my booty bin anyways. Again, amazing linkup! Makes me feel lazy.

This make it to Wenatchee yet? If so, where?

I'm jealous. I want to ski this pair too. Great tour! Nice job!

When do we see the glacier peak TR?

Looks like steepy bootied my bootied trango cam! Dude, I wouldn't trust that piece on lead. But if you're a dirtbag, I guess it's bomber. Congrats on a monster day!

Nice Dan!! Will and I had much softer snow on pur descent. That opening slope gets your attention quickly!

It's only a first descent if he posts a turn by turn narrative complete with photos, on at least three different forums, minimum!

Photo from Chmnyboy of us coming down the north face. It adds a little scale to the scene.

South in Leavenworth. Without rival. You'll never go back to Gustav's.

Doug, that sucks! But no worries. The Reid Headwall will always be there for ya! Did you find any goods up there Sunday?

I am a bit bummed about missing the 2nd couloir but not bummed about the 4 raps to get through it!

Dude! It was great skiing TC's with you. I was definitely in elite company. Thanks for posting the pics and clip!

I'm too wussy to drop in blind, especially on a route like TC's. Just seems more committing. I don't know if it takes bigger cajones to drop a route like that blind. I just think being able to climb a classic and then ski one makes for one great day in the mountains. And besides, I call "bullshit". You dropped in blind on Colchuck and that's got some commitment to it :-) Oh yeah, forgot about that one...

Thanks! The Stuart range sure holds a lot of fun for such a compact area.

I'm too wussy to drop in blind, especially on a route like TC's. Just seems more committing.

Holy crap, nice res on your camera! That's too funny. Thanks for busting trail!