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For the record, we climbed clean love on lower castle, which someone cleaned up nicely thank you! It's a very fun pitch of climbing, and would make a great approach pitch to Idiot's Delight.

Well let me know if you're around after work one of these days and we'll get some pitches in!

Anyone going to be around tomorrow for a half day of climbing? I can be in 11-worth by 1pm for some cragging: Pearly Gates, Castle Rock, 8-Mile buttress. I'm open to any area. Call or PM: 509-699-9810 John

Sobo has a great looking man-ass, that deserves to be shared with the rest of us. Now just do the rap on sno creek wall naked and it just may be relevant to this thread.

I will be rapping, twice, laughing at the clueless choads following errant cairns down the trundly descent! Weather looks perfect!

Anyone interested in doing these two routes tomorrow, 8/21? Meet at sno crik trailhead @ 6am or so.pM or call:509-699-9810. John

Did someone say exhibitionist? (this is not me, btw!!)

Rapping definitely has its risks, but so does that walkoff, especially if you have a couple numbnuts above you kicking rocks as they descend. The walkoff too has sections of 4th downclimbing albeit shorter. I'll admit rapping scw isn't a huge time-saver, but it is a big energy saver, especially fir multi-route days. I'm just lazier these days I guess, and would rather avoid walking down that p.o.s. descent!

Ibeleve his original question wasn't 'how easy is the walkoff on scw.' He just wants to know where the rap stations are. And how do you know rapping is not infinitely a better plan on scw? Have you done it?

I guess I should add that by "a single to the ground", I meant scrambling over from 2 tree ledge to the slings at the top of the first pitch of O/S. Or, you can do one more double rope rap from the slings encountered on 2 tree ledge. This still leaves you with a 50' 4th/low-5th class downclimb, so keep that in mind.

Bonus stoke points for turns in August! Nice going you two!

Nice going Dan! After my broken ski, sun cups of death experience on the Wilson Headwall, I totally regret not joining you for the N-4!!

Impressive send you guys. Next up is a Hannold free solo of TRL?

Nice chatting with you guys. If you had just waited for another 3 hours, you would have had a clear run!

Thanks Veronika and Jimbo! A few shots from Dan: Crossing the Rubicon. Me, totally oblivious to our snowboarding Redwing shredding. Scott shooting over the crux ice constriction with big-time exposure below us. Final schrund crossing. Dan aired this, spun a 540 and landed switch.

Trip: Mt. Baker Coleman Headwall Descent - Date: 7/11/2010 Trip Report: Wahoo! It's official. I'm 50 TR's old... Ahh! Springtime in Washington, when ski season truly begins. Corn harvests. Steep, predictable edging. Leather work gloves that smell like sunscreen. Oh wait! It's summer. I was scrambling around for a partner for this weekend. Dan was just coming off his descent of Liberty Ridge, and ever the free-spirited nomad, apparently never listens to his voicemail. Scott McAllister, on the other hand, does return messages. Living in a gated community near Index, (and I'm not talking incarceration, but close), he was leaning towards a tour on Mt. Baker. What to ski??? Jason Hummel posted this TR on his site and I was sufficiently stoked. Dan and I had tossed around the idea of slaying the direct version down the headwall for a change of pace. So, of course the plan was hatched... Why is it whenever I tour with Scott, my LDL count doubles? Besides being a ripper split-boarder, a little-known fact about Scott is that he specializes in smoked meats, sometimes subsisting for months on nothing but smoked burgers. Okay, maybe an exaggeration, but this tour he was gracious to bring along some smoked salmon. I picked him up at his Index compound Friday evening. Scott moves quick, and tossed every loose item he owned related to camping and touring into my Exploder, including a laundry basket filled to the rim with a chaos of clothes and gear. I've heard that clutter is a sign of genius, so I wasn't too worried. But I couldn't shake the eerie feeling that we were Sanford and Son rolling north on Hiway 9, the inside of my rig making us look like your next episode of Hoarders. Arriving on Friday night at the Heliotrope T.H., we ate some of said salmon and promptly hit the sack, vowing an early wake-up time of whenever one of us decided to get up. The parking lot was full and busy, all night, which segueys to my rant...Why, in the dead of night, when I'm sacked out on the ground, do you have to look at me with your 1,000 lumin headlamp while I'm trying to sleep, every time you walk by??? We woke at the crack of 7am. A quick load of laundry later, we were on the trail up to some snow. I have taken it upon myself to climb routes before skiing them, but we were way too late to do that with the Coleman Headwall, given the exposure to rockfall and wet slides. It was already blistering out, so we decided to take the cheater way up and at least have a look-see from above. From below, it sure looked to be near impassable with bergschrunds and crevasses and ice. If we squinted and looked at the headwall sideways between our legs, we could indeed see a reasonable passage through the hazards. We summited a few hours later. Scott reclined and feasted on more smoked meat, as I went to tag the true tip of Baker. Being late in the afternoon, 2pm ish, I was alone on top enjoying fine views and windless condishes. We skied over to the start of the rollover on mushy snow that was not corn. It kept rolling over, and rolling over until we could see down the length of the route. What we saw wasn't reassuring, either. All I could see were gaping bergschrunds and wet slides that would happily deposit us inside them. And having not climbed the route, we had no idea if any of the 3 or 4 schrunds could be end-run. We detoured from the main headwall, and skied the Roman Nose area (?), and eventually contoured back around to below the Roman Wall, relieved that we were not part of the wet slides we had set off all the way around. Holy Josh Lewis, this TR is getting too long. So, I'll get to the smoked meat of it... We ran into Dan Helmstadter at the Graham Store/Bar, and decided to ski the headwall the next day, getting an earlier start. It went off well, with a few hickups in unexpected weather. The route was steep, glorious, amazingly exposed and worth every bit of effort to ski it! Scott rips the steeps on his board, and Dan is, well, Dan as his usual smooth self, who sniffed the line down the headwall around ice and schrund. He even aired it out over the last crack. Scott working his way up the ridge. The Scarecrow decided to join us for the descent. A marine layer moved in... So we waited... And waited... And waited some more until it started to look promising, three hours later... We busted the last 1,000 vertical to the summit, and quickly transitioned into downhill mode. Dan leading the way... Dan H. in slay mode. The route could be looked at as consisting of three pitches, with the upper headwall, the middle portion with an ice constriction, and the last 1/3 of long traversing over the final bergschrund, which yielded fantastic fall-line skiing! And as you can tell, big turns on a big headwall equal big smiles. All the way back to the car... The Route, photo by Dan:

Hell yeah Dan(and Co.)! Methodically slaying the demons, one by one! Looking forward to the next descent!

What a great climb and supercute ponytail helmet!

Nice TR and effort you guys!

Great effort and photos Josh. Way tpo git it out in the disappointing conditions! That area is so cool! That perspective of Bonanza is always impressive.

Way to include the sandpiper in that last photo. A couple dudes base jumped from that a couple years ago. Crazy!

Yet another! Nice one Dan!

Nice Darin, and as always, great photos. From what I remember of the 2nd pitch, after attempting it a number of times 3 to 4 years ago, it had one fixed pin at the overlap just off the belay, and another fixed pin partway up the big corner. Those were the only fixed pieces. The super thin portions went clean with a ballnut and camhooks.

I was definitely a little disoriented, Scott! Back at the car,I suggested to Dan we go to Uli's for a couple beers.

Thanks Dan for an outstanding descent! Additional Porn: The slog up the moraine. The upper the face. Summit is just behind the cornice above. Dan getting ready to carve up the upper Spur. Committing to the N/NE Face. Confident turns on inspiring snow. Reflecting half way down on a real classic!