Terminal_Gravity

Thanks for the tips. I recieved my S 500's last tuesday. I had them mounted on new skis from telemark-pyrenees. Amazingly cheap, after I looked around a bit. The ski's I got are Hagen TS extreme's. 130cm - 92,74,84. Very short and light. Just what I want to pack up. I used them for the first time yesterday in a local coulior. The top was about 50 degrees and eased to about 40 as it narrowed to about 20' wide then slowly leveled as it ran out. 1800 ft vertical drop total. Frankly, I was over my head. I had trouble controlling my speed and spent some of the time side slipping just to get down. My question is this. The bindings are set well back on the boards so it seems that I did not have enough braking force with the tails of the skis. Is this a correct assesment, do I just have to live with it if I use skis so short, or am I just a gumby that needs to increase my skill? The skis were fast, turned quickly and felt good. I just couldn't dump speed well. [ 06-03-2002, 04:40 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

In retrospect, I no longer feel guilt. I do, however, feel sadness. I think that it is the responsibility of all climbers to help those in dire straits when (and if) we are aware of the situation. But only if we do not put ourselves beyond our own comfort level of risk. IE; if we have to compromise a summit attempt to save a life, so be it, but if we are only going to add to the casuality list, we should not. If I understand Redmonk correctly, I agree. A cell phone, an un-anchored rope or any other thing for that matter should never be used for a security blanket or to increase the comfort level of a party so that they can justify climbing something harder. I'm sure that the use of ropes on the Hood accident added to the tragedy. Thank you all for the heart felt responses to my posting. If any one claims that cc.comers are just a bunch of posing, spray fest, ego maniacs all they have to do is read this thread...especially pre-cell phone arguement. Good Climbing - TG PS - If some one feels any need to spray further on this thread or to me, do it somewhere else or via a PM, please. [ 06-03-2002, 08:49 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by jhamaker: Moral: Consider not roping up if you can't arrest.[/QB] And if you can arrest, you don't need a rope unless you need an anchor. If your arrest is not bomb proof you should be out practicing instead of climbing. Moral: have a very handy belay knife. IMO... ropes are stupid stupid stupid unless you are crossing a glacier, have an anchor, are rappeling or have an incapacitated climber with you and are going down. [ 05-30-2002, 10:54 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Thanks, all of you. Your right: the line between being in control and being in danger can be crossed very quickly in the mountains; sometimes without even being aware of it. Even though i don't think that i was near that edge, i would have probably passed it if I had tried to help. My concern should be ( and is ) toward my remaining daughter. Good Climbing - steve [ 05-30-2002, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by erik: Well said, erik. Thanks - TG

I am deeply troubled. I know more than most what it is like to lose a loved one. Two years ago yesterday, my beautiful and precious 8 year old daughter died in a rafting accident. I was the oar man. It truly was a freak thing, against all odds. I gave her CPR for 2-1/2 hours until we met an ambulance. I don't carry a radio or a cell phone when I climb. I don't climb to get rescued. I make sure that I am self reliant. I make conservative choices, especially when soloing. I have excellent gear, a good mental focus and a wealth of experience. My Patagonia clothes may have made the difference between a bit of discomfort and seriousness, that morning on Rainier. To be sure; the conditions were on the intense side, but I never felt like the situation was approaching danger. There I was; basically having fun while people less than a mile from me were struggling, and failing , for their lives. If I had carried a radio, maybe I could have helped. Was I being selfish or self absorbed? It is certainly appropriate to help those in need on the mountains, but where do we draw the line. My inclination is that I should have had a radio. (Mike G. - maybe you can comment on this.) It is making me sick to my stomach that I wrote a self congrateulatory TR for a climb that I did while fellow climbers died not far from me. Again, my heart goes out to their families. [ 05-30-2002, 09:03 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

I am sorry. I screwed up on the dates when I posted. I climbed on 5/24 & 25. I get shivers when I think of the struggles those people that died and were rescued must have been going through while I was so close on the mountain. My condolences to their families. Add on edit: I should clarify. I think that it is arguable that hoping for better weather higher on a mountain is foolish. I would never suggest that scrimping on saftey gear is foolish. That being said, I think that one of the most important skills in mountaineering is Knowing what to bring and what not to bring. Going light can let you get into trouble faster and higher, but having more than you need can hurt as well. Being to light should make a prudent climber turn back if things don't go as planned. So that you don't think that I am a total cowboy idiot I want to assure you that I was well prepared and still light. I had a helmet, a second axe, a sleeping pad, mylar sheet, a med kit, spare batteries and spare light, addiquate navigation equipment, enough GU and fuel to weather atleast 3 days and excellent clothes for the conditions. It would have been easier if I had brought a magnetic compass in addition to the electronic one and I should rethink my gogles. I also should have had Lithium batteries in the GPS. Cheers - steve ( can one of you mountain dudes change the title for me. Thanks) <small>[ 05-30-2002, 06:29 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]</small>

quote: Originally posted by MysticNacho: crikey! Was this the same storm TG got caught in? Yes, it was the same storm...I screwed up on my dates on the TR. I climbed it on the 24th & 25th. My condolonces to the families. It sure hurts my heart to think of their life & death struggles while I was on the mountain. [ 05-30-2002, 06:24 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Sorry about leaving you guys hanging, The wife (boss) called.

Damn, it is hard to type with frost nip on 2 of my fingers! Part one: I left the parking lot at 3:15 Friday afternoon. A small linticular cloud had formed to the east of the summit but otherwise the weather was perfect. One Gu consumed, I dropped down on to the lower Nisqually. My thoughts were already turning toward my planned breakfast at Paradise Inn the next morning. An 18 hour trip time seemed well within sights. My mood was extatic. This was my type of climbing. I had gotten my solo permit and was smug that my pack was only 17 pounds, I moved fast across the glacier, un-roped and un-encumbered by partners. I reached the ridge at 5:30 passing 3 climbers with serious packs that had left the parking lot at 11:00 and were heading for the Kautz. I moved as quickly as was prudent back across the glacier, scanning for the surprise cravasse. The recent avalanche debris from the serac that had swept the Wilson Head wall a week ago was abundantly clear. I turned and headed straight up toward the finger just when Rainier decided to say hello and dropped a half a dozen 5 gallon bucket sized rocks from the east wall. They bracketed me but passed harmlessly. It was just before 8 pm when I reached the middle rock outcropping derectly below the chute. I melted 4 quarts of water, drank 1 1/2 and stuffed the rest into my pack. I put tights and crampons on, traded one pole for an axe, reset my altimiter, and ate a hand full of pine nuts...half of my solid food for the trip. As I rested, I watched the mostly full moon slowly rise and Hood, and Adams turn pinkish orange. At 9:15, tired of the in-activity I headed up. The snow was already firming nicely and there wasn't even a diabatic wind coming down the chute. By the time I reached the hourglass the last of the twilight had left but the moon was so bright that a head light was silly. It was truly bucolic, my spirits were high and my focus was solid. If anything, I was wishing that the climbing was a bit more challenging. (Be careful what you wish for) The snow above the hourglass was softer but I put my head down and postholed another 1000 feet. By 11:00 my lunar friend was ducking in and out behind clouds. I used my light the first time to cross the little step just above where the thumb joined the route. A breeze picked up, clouds filled the sky and I said good by to the moon. I reached 12,500' by midnight, a bit ahead of schedule and feeling strong. At 12:15 I felt the first sting of driven snow on my face. Well, the weather report said to expect snow by morning; I guess it was morning. Part 2: By 1:30 it was a whole different ball game. The breeze had picked up significantly and the needle shaped snow was occluding any view beyond my head light. My movement had slowed considerably as I pushed on. I started veering right without really knowing where I was. I was above the last of the rocks but I could not tell when to start across the glacier and the thought of getting out the map in the wind was ridiculous. I pushed up along the left side of some small seracs hoping for a smooth opening but found none. I was worried about getting off track, so at 3:15 I jumped into a cravasse to get out of the weather and wait for first light. Breakfast was seeming less likely. Snowfall continued to increase and my little hole started feeling more like a tomb. I kept hopeing for a little break but it never came. At 5:00 I could take no more and decided to move rather than freeze. It was light but the visibility was even worse. I litterally could not see a delinitation between the snow and the sky. I tried to put on my googles but they occluded with snow so fast that they were useless. I am quite nearsighted but my glasses iced so badly that I was better off without them. The batteries froze in my GPS and died so fast that it would proved no help. It wouldn't aquire sattilites without holding it to the wind for a couple of minutes and by then the screen was to encrusted with ice to read and my ice encrusted gloves made a terrible wiper. I thought I was heading more or less directly up but as it turned out I must have traversed a fair amount left. I ended up at the top of the snow feild below an inverted U shaped band of looming seracs. ( Looking at photos later they must be the ones at the top of the Kautz, far west of where I thought I was) With out a horizon they seemed overhanging at first. I decided that up was the lesser of several evils. At the top the wind freshened further and visibility reduced. Any sort of real navigation was a joke so I just climbed on. I kept to a rising traverse, with the slope to my left. With the absolute lack of visibility I found that my balance was better with my eyes closed and would take ten steps or so before taking a look. On a rare occasion I would see a boulder in the distance, hoping that I could hide from my niemisis the wind, only to realize that it was just a rock in the snow. My addled mind refused to grasp distance. Simple functions became problimatic. Rime Ice built on my windward side. Fastic buckles on my pack were challanging to open and refused to close. I occasionally had to bang my left leg to break up the ice to lift my leg. At one point I tried to take off my pole and found 1/2 and inch of ice had welded the strap to my glove. Time slowed and the wind increased as I found a ridge with some rock. Strangly the slope up was to the left. Insanity started knocking on my forebrain. A hole in the snow appeared... one of those blessed steam vents. I climbed down into relative warmth and regrouped; ate double Gu's drank what water was liquid and put in a fresh plug of bourbon Copenhagen. My altimiter read 14,819 feet... Hmmm; must be close. I put fresh batteries into the GPS and taped a heat pack to the case. Heading back into it I was forced to walk crouching backwards, up hill, into the wind. I reached the summit minutes later at 7:45. I followed the GPS directly toward the top of the DC. The wind abated some, but visibility didn't improve until I reached 12'800. Until then, I had to watch the little arrow more than my footing or I would change direction without knowing it. From ingrahm flats it was easy walking and I shed layers. I got a kick out seeing trudging climbers with heavy packs heading up to muir. They kept asking if the weather was better farther up. At 2:15 I was drinking Makers and gingerale in the back of my truck. It is my understanding that a couple RMI guides made it to about 13,000 ft but turned back. So, my first time up Rainier I was the only person to summit. I have heard that you should expect serious crowds on Memorial day weekend. <img border="0" title="" alt="[big Grin]" src="images/icons/grin.gif" /> I got a bit of surface frostbite on my left cheek and two tinglely finger tips, but am not really any worse for wear. However, I look forward to climbing easier things in the near future. Cheers, Steve <small>[ 05-29-2002, 10:50 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]</small>

It was great hanging and climbing with you man. Hopefully I'll hook up with you in the valley. Later - steve [ 05-20-2002, 01:55 PM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by J_Kirby: All Would it be possible to actually contribute something of value here? Anyone out there have a more convenient/quicker way to rack your cordelette besides the ole wad it up and stuff it in a pocket method? First Question...no. Second Question...yes; I do have a quicker better method.

quote: Originally posted by carolyn: TG, I thought you gave those things up! Thanks for your concern Carolyn. If the truth be known; and at the risk of sounding like a gear geek, I have (and use) 3 pairs of crampons. Light aluminums for general mountaineering and altitude, Rambo's for WI and my dear old Footfangs for alpine with steep, hard or rock sections. I hope you have a good time out west. You should get some of those lazy Portland climbers to get out with you while you are there. I wish I could.

I would like to have them/it...and I'm not afraid to admit it publicly. PM me and I'll send you something for postage if you want. my address is Terminal Gravity 803 School Street Enterprise, OR 97828 Thanks

No , we did a rising traverse out of the east gully, so we were pretty far left by then. The step looked more like one rolling ice section, not two distinct steps. maybe 60 ft total at about 75 degrees. My best guess only. have fun [ 05-14-2002, 07:50 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

What time of day did you cross the 'schrund & what time did you summit. I'm not trying to find out what kind of shape you are in. It is just that willstrickland and I had very different snow conditions than you on the North Face. We passed the upper Schrund of the West Gully at 5 am (to late by at least an hour). At that point we were starting to kick off micro slab avalanches. Higher new snow had managed to accumulate on the 50-55 degree slopes. I assume only because there was some sun cupping below the fresh with a thin glazing of ice on top. We were simul-soloing fast but decided to escape left at about 10,000 ft due to what I considered to be moderate big slab release conditions. I have to say this was the climb I had the most fun on without summiting. We constantly had to change from low dagger to cane position as we traversed the slopes to Cooper which lokeed like it had slabbed during the prior snowfall. Fun fun fun. Sunrise was spectacular.

I thought this was a thread about testicals & fridgid pussies

Well said, iain.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: TG, Rumor has it Beckey sent that too with Heinrich Harrer and Heinrich Himmler during a 3 day effort in 1953 You are, no doubt, right again Caveman.

Yes Klenke, that's the face I was refering to. The Matterhorn west face is a mix of the crumble stone and solid rock. It has been climbed only once, by Dave Jensen in the early 70's. There is a big mix of stuff out here. Some is crazy loose and some is bomb proof ...and every thing inbetween

quote: Originally posted by Ade: Out of interest how many of those advocating not using a rope have fallen in a crevasse? As a side note I happened to spend Saturday afternoon practicing crevasse rescue. A few points to add to Andy Selter's book on the topic. [*] Forget the Z-system to haul someone your own weight (even without their gear) you need a C-system. . I have something to add Ade. I have fallen into a cravasse with & without a rope. I do not unilaterally advocate the use or disuse of a rope. Read my first posting on this thread. Ironically, I did fall into a biggy in the hymalayas on a trip with Andy Selters...but just up to my shoulders because I reacted with my axe very fast and my partnes reacted very fast, and I was very glad I was using a rope and my partners had just completed a course taught by Andy. To restate my point, an aware and expierenced climber can cross glaciers ( particularly below the firn line) with a reasonable amount of risk. And as you experienced, in-experienced people are not neccesarily safe with a rope...roped travel is certainly slower. As far as pulling a heavy climber out...a system I have used is to clip the prusik or ascender to your rear tie in loop of your harness, cinch the harness very tight, dig your front points in hard, use two axes like you were ice climbing, squat and pull with all the might of your legs. In practice, I managed to pull a climber of equal weight to the cravasse lip with no pully or Z. It helped that a third adjusted the ascenders for me. It is a lot faster than fucking around with a "C" system.

I'll second the opinion...The Coe is cool Any one know if you can drive to Cloud Cap inn yet this year?

Country Jake; I don't think I know Greg...but if he drinks beer he has probably been in my pub. Jarred; I have a friend in Pendelton that climbs...E-mail me when you get over here & i'll hook you up.

quote: Originally posted by imorris: 90% of Oregonians think Pendleton is a nice wool blanket and eastern oregon ends at Gov't Camp. Right T.G.? You got that right, Imorris...and I don't mind. As far as what is out here... 56 peaks above 9000' (by my count) including 13 of Oregons highest 20 peaks. ( Jeff Smoot is just wrong when he claims that Mclaughlin is OR's 6th highest...I believe it to be a tie for 22nd. Then again he probably thinks there is nothing east of the Cascades) Gobs of rock including grade 4 granite (800' wall) and grade 5 limestone (1700' wall) Killer backcountry skiing Water ice Dec. through April And my personal favorite... more alpine faces, couliors & ridges than even I know what to do with. BTW: both South (9648') & North (9673') Twin Peaks are class 4 (not class 5). North is the loosest pile of crap I have ever climbed sans rope. South used to be higher but in 1929 it fell over. [ 05-07-2002, 08:15 AM: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]