Terminal_Gravity

A year ago today I was lazing on the southern coast of Mexico, swimming with turtles and drinking cheap mescal after playing on the ice on the SW side of Pico de Orizaba.

Yeah; Trask you are probably right. Maybe I should be drinkin' instead of dreamin' Alcohol is my life...climbing is my tonic and I've cried enough tears to wash dishes. [ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

cj001f - thanks for the reply, and clearly economics dictate having things sewn in places with cheap labor. That being said, I gotta call bullshit. China has the biggest labor pool. But their are several other countries with equally cheap and skilled labor. What it would take is for gear companies to make a policy of not dealing with China. For that to happen they would have to find value in doing so. That's where we as consumers come in. If a bunch of us wrote Marmot or any of the others and even said that we would be more likely to by a piece of clothing that was made anywhere but China, they would listen. And really all you need is one major company to become aware of a consumer concern and the others will be forced to follow. Also, when you purchase something mail order ask if it is made in China if they don't tell you in the catalog. (Sierra Trading Post does) If a big customer like MGear started asking the Manufactures about origin, they would listen. Sooner or later, the manufacturs would start advertising "China Free" clothing.

After finishing Tex's work out try this... Get the flu. Eat thirty seven prunes. Tighten a C-clamp onto your temples. Drink 1 1/2 oz. each of Mescal (with worm), Absinthe, Ouzo and Jagermeister. Put duct tape over your mouth, and one nostril. (Your allowed to remove duct tape only while puking) Pee in your pants Spend 16 hours on a stairmaster in a walk in freezer. For extra credit you may apply 400 grit sand paper to the piece of clothing opposite any of the following. ToesAchilles tendonsNipplesTestes Note: If you ever feel like you are getting "a second wind" drink 5 ml of Visine

'second night in a row that I couldn't sleep. So, today I got an alpine start at work but it's too dark in the shop, the beer is all happy and needs no attention and I can't stand the thought of paperwork. Are you as bored already as I am? So... Point A) I'm sure that we all loath the horrors that the Chinese government did to the people and culture of Tibet. Point B) As mountaineers we hold Tibet dear and dream of things Hymalayan. Point C) As good ole american consumers our biggest collective power is the BOYCOTT. So, my biggest gripe.... Why the hell do so many high end mountaineering gear companies make things in China? And, why do we buy them? [ 12-19-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

I could not find any ice in slick rock canyon. It must have dried up early season. There is good solid and steep steps in a gully across from falls creek. The largest is about 35 feet high & 40 ft wide Falls creek falls (50 ft) is forming nicely but still has a bit to much liquid water flowing. I climbed BC creek falls this morning. I had fun but it really needs another month. Slush ville. Boy scout falls has a long way to go. Ruby Peak has a 400 ft mixed climb that is slowly forming. It may be thick enough to climb on January first...which is what I am planning. If anyone wants more info you can always call me.541.426.0158 I took some pictures and will post them when I get a chance. steve

Pull-ups for ice?...simple, do the pull-ups hanging from you tools. I do it from a tree branch but a high bar works to. It uses the appropriate muscles and toughens your wrists. Swinging while pulling up? Put a couple of 6 inch long pieces of PVC pipe that is slightly larger diameter than the bar on the bar and pull from them. They will rotate and you won't be torqueing the bar with your grip. This trick also increases hand strength more. (in fact your hands might give up before your arms) It also helps provide more of a pure upward force for your arms and increases control.

I got that Simonds Super Fox third tool that was discussed on an earlier thread. My 7 year old can acctually hold and swing it. She is now all psyched to climb ice! I couldn't find any small crampons. Does anybody know of any. Thanks in advance.

Hey Smoky, Lots of snow out here but not as much ice as I would like. I trudged 7 miles in snow shoes this morning ( wishin' I owned skis) in search or this 500foot rolling waterfall (WI 1-4 when formed) It's been cold enough but must have dried up early season. All I found was a long steep gully full of snow. (wish I owned skis) I returned and had my favorite post workout cocktail...Cytomax & Gin!

I found roadside ice today, But it was mixed and verglassed. I had fun climbing but it was not worth driving out for. I am going on an extended exploration hike tomarrow and will post info about what I find. Later - steve

No man, your not bugging me. I did respond to your PM. I told you about the climbing here. I have not climmbed Anthony Lakes. There is to much to climb here and when I need more I go to Yos & JT. You can E-mail or PM me any time, but I type really slow and may not respond quickly. Don't take it personnally. BTW I used to live in Milwuakie. PS I climbed ice today.

See, Wdietsch you know I'm right. The best piece of gear; truly is the ziplock bag. 1001 uses. Of course; Dan Larson might not agree.

Blah Blah Blah Blah Blah Yes I Like my #2 Camalot and my ice tool and my Lowe xxxx and my Patagonia whatchamacallit and my marmot underwear but.... Lets define "the best"... It should be useful for several different things and on all types of climbing trips. It should be light weight. It should be cheap. It should be availible in non-speciality stores. And it should make your climbing experience more enjoyable, more comfortable and easier. It is clear that my favorite piece of gear is a " zip lock bag"

We fly out of Portland on Jan 9th and will climb the Polish Direct... unless we get an attack of the small cajones.

Thanks for the info...I was a bit nervous about stress failure, maybe just irrational fears.

The Marmot has half of the insulation that the Patagonia has and weighs 6 ounces more Yes, I am plugging Patagonia. They are supporting me on my up coming trip. BTW they make great stuff [ 12-13-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

I already ordered some Camp aluminum 12 points for glacier travel to 60° weighing in at about a pound and a half. Did I screw-up?

I like Thermarests.

I don't know about camelbacks but I've had two trips ruined by Cascade Designs platypussies leaking. Fortunately, my down bag soaked up the water the first time. OR still sucks.

Anything & Everything by OutdoorResearch. second rate gear at best. IMO

quote: Originally posted by Marty: Terminal, Where is the Wallowas and is there rock climbing there too in the summer? If so then what type of stone? Extreme NE corner of Oregon. Yes, in the summer...the rock acctually stays here all year long; go figure. It's all wild or virgin. Granite & Basalt to grade IV and Limestone/Marble to Grade V. No guide books!

Page 21 i got it Oops...Oh Yeah...almost forgot ---> Dan Larson Sucks [ 12-11-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

quote: Originally posted by Ropegun2001: This guy KNOWS core strength and has even thrown the lengendary Tony Yaniro for a loop. I matched Tony Yaniro drink for drink at the Mountain Room Broiler Is that a good stomach exercise. I used to be called the worlds fattest decent climber...that was back when I was a decent climber [ 12-11-2001: Message edited by: Terminal Gravity ]

Those teeth on the air tech's aren't sharp at all; neither was the designer. As Beck says they are a bit close to the shaft for a boot axe belay. I carefully removed mine and I'm sure that I did not compromise the structural integrity. Other than that they are great axes. Mine now weighs 11.9 ounces Also, err on the side of short if you will ever use the pick for anything other than self arrest.

Feel the Anchor, Know the Anchor, Be the Anchor.