quikclimber

Looking for partners/ride share to lillooet next Friday to Sunday. Willing to drive. Looking to climb lots of WI3-4. PM or 36o-three zero three-l582 if interested.

google earth: Duffey Lake Rd D'Arcy, BC V0N 1L0, Canada 50.553421, -122.099628

After a recon' on Wednesday I went back Friday and Saturday for two laps up the practice gully. Here are some pictures in no particular order. There were three other parties climbing it Saturday. In all, there were about 7 pitches of low angle ice and a few steeper steps. The main flow became wetter further up until it became un-climbable.

sent PM, Lillooet wed-sat?

After a long drive I decided to unpack in the morning...but someone decided to help out overnight. Here is what they stole. If you see any of these items for sale at the pawn shop or on craigslist, please send me a message. item make model description pack BD preadator 50 red tent BD firstlight yellow pad Thermarest neoair allseason teal sleeping bag marmot hydrogen 30 degree black stove MSR windpro2 Pot set MSR duralight grey fuel bottle MSR 22oz red spoon MSR titan Hydration system Platypus Big zip LP 2L thermos Hydroflask 18oz insulated stainless pack cover granite gear cloud cover, medium orange stuff sack OR UL ditty sacks stuff sack sea to summit Ultrasil green rope bluewater icefloss red runner BD dyneema yellow, 60cm runner BD dyneema blue, 120cm quickdraws BD dyneema carabiners mammut light, wiregate silver, orange carabiners BD positron locking gold harness BD couloir orange cordage bluewater 6mmX30' gold belay device petzl reversino orange belay device BD guide xp red picketts MSR coyotee aluminum crampons Camp XLC390 green ice axe BD raven UL orange leash BD slider black ice tools petzl quark grey axe protector BD orange pick protector BD orange snowshoes MSR denali grey helmet petzl elios white headlamp BD icon silver, black headlamp petzl zipka green knife swiss army cadet alox silver gps garmin etrex 30 grey, with SD card Gaiters OR crocodile black, medium Jacket marmot precip green, lime Jacket marmot tempo grey jacket patagonia nanopuff blue, full zip shirt REI powerflyte 1/4 zip red pant marmot precip black, full side zip socks smartwool expedidtion weight gre hat OR storm red balaclava OR gorrilla black glove BD renegade brown glove BD torque black glove BD scree liner black window chevy sonic, 2012 tinted

Trip: Colchuck Pk - North Buttress Date: 4/14/2014 Trip Report: With a sunny forecast and partner lined out, I had to get back into the Stuart range. The North Buttress Couloir had been on my list for a while and seemed like a perfect fit for a shakedown climb with a new partner. We made a casual afternoon start from the gate, stashed the beers in the river and started the march up the road. Minutes later we both swore to bring a bike next time, even if only for the awesome ride on the way back down. We hit snow just after the road levels out. Once we found the snow wasn't too soft we ditched the slowshoes in the bushes and made quick time to the Colchuck turn off. We took the direct route up to the middle of the lake, cutting out all the switchbacks on the way up. We headed out around 6 Sunday morning. The snow was perfect booter to the couloir. In the couloir conditions changed a few times from knee deep to crampon points only. We opted to rope up at the top of the couloir since the snow on the NW face was a bit icier and there was a little more exposure. The route was easy to follow and still had plenty of snow. Clear, sunny views from the summit were some of the best I have seen. The snow on the descent to the glacier was soft and offered awesome glissading. We glissaded the glacier all the way to the lake. Some icy sections made for some of the fastest sitting and three point glissades I've done. The beer was still in the river when we got back to the car, which helped us to forget the slog out. Ready to head back! dragontail and colchuck from the lake colchuck dragontail sunset looking up from the bottom of the NBC beginning of the couloir on the NW face very top of the NW face looking down the NE couloir just below the summit Sherpa, Argonaut, Stuart, Rainier Stuart Glissading the glacier NBC Camp Gear Notes: a few nuts and pickets for protection while simul-climbing. pons and axe. Approach Notes: boots...or a four wheeler

pretty sure I saw you two walking across the lake. NICE WORK. That's and awesome route.

I climbed it on Friday the 7th...great ice! Seemed pretty brittle, except for the areas with forming ice(thermometer said 10 degrees). I stopped in at the Patrol shack to verify the access. They made it clear that they don't want anyone walking around to the top. Lead only.

I've see ice in a few other spots up there on ramblings. way to get some! Too bad its all getting covered up this week.

wow, we saw that from the highway and looked through the binoc's but figured it was probably thin...guess not. How tall was it? how was the approach? WAY TO GET SOME!!!

Snoqualmie, paradise, exit 38, wherever...looking to climb WI3 or 4ish. lead, toprope, whatever. tooth, chair, zipper, game for anything icey and in the mountains!

man i havent been there in years, still have to ride in on the road? i had no idea that place was in the alpine lakes region!??

I'm free sunday, would love to dry tool 38 or rap wall

leavenworth looks good. I'm up for anything ins the 5.10's or below. snow creek wall or something long (serpentine ridge?). let me know if you are still looking

i have 9 more punches on my card at egeworks...always looking for partners.

the gate was locked, another month of sun and maybe they will have it open. the trail was melt freeze concrete. you are more likely to need pons than snowshoes. we packed out a nice track from the end of the lake to the base of the route which was the only deep snow.

i always want to go climbing tomorrow

I'll be around all of april and early may if you are interested in climbing then

Trip: dragontail - triple couloirs Date: 3/8/2010 Trip Report: Peakpimp and i decided to do a shakedown climb on something short and easy since it was our first together. We both thought the weather would suck. We left the TH around 10 and had a nice hike in on firm crust we were at the lake around 3. dragontail...and some very bad weather we left our camp at the north end of the lake around 7. We had some nice snice at the bottom of the hidden couloir which was over too quickly. We took the second option and climbed snow to a belay and a fun rock pitch. The second coulir was great booting and a short traverse across a slab led into the final couloir. a couple pics near the top of three the glissade was great last look at the hidden couloir an awesome route, great conditions Gear Notes: used two pickets and some cams, second tool was nice on the entrance to the hidden couloir Approach Notes: approach was firm and icy

i am free again as well, colchuck or dragon tail both sound awesome!

If you are interested in a 3rd climber I should be available to climb april and the first few weeks in may, as long as I don't find a job. Also, if you have whole week to climb Liberty ridge, I would be interested in doing some other climbs if time permits or conditions for the ridge are unfavorable.

Trip: Colchuck - Colhuck Glacier Date: 2/16/2010 Trip Report: Its old news but at least I have a few nice pictures for you to look at. Left the TH around two on tuesday, camped just off the trail were it forks off to stuart lake. Skiied up to colchuck the next day, made a camp near the lake and headed up the left side of the moraine. we were going to head up the ne buttress couloir, but it was a bit late in the day so we skinned and booted to the col and east summit. The skiing was great fun and the snow was great down near the lake for the last 1000' but crusty above. Thursday we headed back up and climbed up to where the couloir gets narrow, a quick pit revealed a crust 60cm down with poor bonding (ste Q1). About the same time a big slab released on a similar aspect on the adjacent slope so we boogied out of there, knowing the headwall at the top of the couloir was probably even more wind loaded. bridge crossing Gear Notes: brought way to much crap to not get up either couloir. skis were nice Approach Notes: skiied in

still looking for someone to climb with?

I'm free all week. Any routes in mind?

sent you an email