Otto

That's incredible you guys, strong work!

Climbing access at Cochise Stronghold is threatened. If you love Cochise, your help is needed. I received the following from the local activist group Southern Arizona Climber's Coalition: Keep Climbing in the Stronghold! Wanted to keep you aware of the development of the Forest Service Plan. The Southern Arizona Climbers Coalition has been working hard since the Forest Service Workshop. They have done days of research trying to find out what Wilderness designation will mean to climbing in the Stronghold. Below is their latest call to action! The Forest Service changed their recommendation from Wild Backcountry to Wilderness based on 300 letters they received from Wilderness Society Members. WE ARE THE USERS OF THE LAND! We need to write letters ASAP to show how much we want the land to be Wild Backcountry. The Access Fund is sending out an electronic alert this week. You can use that link via SACC or write your own. The important thing is to write Jim Upchurch, Coronado Forest Supervisor, and tell him that you want to preserve the future of climbing with Wild Backcountry designation. "Hi Membership, In order to maintain the number of fixed gear and routes in the Stronghold with the use of power drills, the only practical maintenance method, we believe that a Wilderness designation in the Stronghold is not in the best interest of climbers in Southern Arizona. The current style of climbing in the Dragoons does not fit well under a wilderness designation. Current wilderness management strategies are problematic with bolt protected face climbs, of which there are many in the Dragoons. We are going to advocate for climbers to continue climbing unhindered by the restrictions that a wilderness designation imposes, while still trying to maintain avenues to support the environment. This direction is in response to new information, initial response from the membership, and recent insights from the Access Fund. Due to the delicate and complicated nature of this issue, we have wanted to ensure that we explored all avenues that would allow the continuation of climbing in the Stronghold. The Access Fund has stated that, in this instance, a wilderness designation is NOT in the best interest of climbers and we have aligned ourselves with that direction. We believe then, in this instance, supporting the proposed wild backcountry land use zone (draft plan) is in the best interest of the current public use patterns, while affording protections for the natural environment of the area. This goal, in alliance with the Access Fund, will be our current direction. The Access Fund has given us complete support on this issue, and will be launching an Action Alert to ask the climbing community to help support this decision through a letter writing campaign. Fundamentally, we are not anti-wilderness, but in this instance, we are against wilderness management in an area that does not suit wilderness. Our largest concern is the number of fixed gear that will have to be replaced in 20-25 years, an impractical feat if done using wilderness restrictions. We have compiled several examples of how wilderness designations will significantly reduce current recreation use patterns, actively remove routes, and restrict climber access. An article by Alpinist on 6/10/2010 stated that “[The National Park Service plan for Christmas Tree Pass] would be the first to not only ban, but also require the removal of fixed anchors.” –Read the article here. A notice by the National Park Service on 01/21/2014 “Regarding rock climbing management for alternatives B and C in the Draft Wilderness Management Plan/EIS [in Lake Mead National Recreation Area]... In Bridge Canyon Wilderness no new fixed anchors or fixed equipment would be permitted, with the exception of permitted replacement anchors.” –Read the notice here. The Access Fund response to the Lake Mead National Recreation Area states that “it will also unnecessarily impose severe restrictions on the longtime activity of rock climbing… Proposing to reduce the number of climbing routes based on an inappropriate definition of the term ‘bolt-intensive’ and the misconception that ‘bolt-intensive’ climbing routes fundamentally attract high levels of visitation is inarguably antithetical to anecdotal evidence (from local climbers and Lake Mead NRA staff) as well as several well-respected, NPS funded study findings.” –Read the response here. The Mt. Charleston Wilderness Management Plan stated in January of 2013 that “In the Proposed Action, new fixed anchor routes would be prohibited by both the FS and the BLM and the replacement of permanent fixed anchors on existing routes would be evaluated for their appropriateness in Wilderness through a special use permit process.”…” Current recreational activities that involve rock climbing would continue in Mt. Charleston Wilderness; however, there is not expected to be an increase in future “sport climbing” activities, which would be curbed due to the prohibition on new “fixed anchor routes.”” –Read the Plan here. There is a precedent of a misinterpretation of federal regulation in wilderness areas. Here is part of an Access Fund response to the North Cascades National Park fixed anchor (bolt) moratorium “The Access Fund is concerned that the North Cascades National Park fixed anchor (bolt) moratorium is incongruous with national policy, based on misinterpretation of federal regulation, unnecessarily compromises wilderness climber safety, and negatively affects wilderness use-patterns. We believe that some level of fixed anchor (bolt) use must be allowed wherever climbing is allowed, and that the appropriate level of use should be established on an area-by-area basis.” Read the response here. If the Stronghold is to become wilderness, there will be significant change to climbing in that area, including the restriction of power drills, the decay of routes that cannot be maintained by hand drills, and the potential of a permit system and route removal by the FS. We believe that wild back country is the best fitted land use zone for the Dragoons to protect current climbing freedoms, the ability to maintain routes with power drills, and support the wilderness spirit of the area, without significantly changing current public recreation patterns. Shannon -- Shannon Maitland Board Member, Conservation Chair Southern Arizona Climber's Coalition 480-495-0064 mashmaitland@gmail.com

Nice work you guys, glad to hear about the three new pitches! That slab looked like it had a lot of potential; I'm sure you made better use of the resource than that original winding route with all the runouts. I've got to get over there soon!

Wow, thanks for the cool pics! I wonder if many people went up beyond the second pitch back then. There are two old bolts with tat, and then the great unknown...

We visited Three O'Clock Rock soon after a large rockfall left new broken blocks, scars and dust all over the North Buttress. I had been there and climbed Silent Running back on May 20th and all was normal. DavidW reported the new rockfall on this past Sunday, so the rockfall must have occurred between those dates. The obvious white scar between Total Soul and Silent Running locates the source. Among the routes affected may be Penny Lane, Revolver, and Silent Running. DavidW was on Silent Running on Sunday, and said it had collected sand and gravel on every flat surface with balanced broken rocks all around. Revolver must have many broken bolts and hangers. Penny Lane may have escaped damage. It must have been a thunderous roar, just a massive rock fall.

One day in early June I replaced the top anchor and three of the pro bolts on the second pitch of Magic Bus. Then I dropped the Allen wrench. This is with a Pika drill and with the bit all loose I couldn't turn the drill so the day's work was over. Amazingly, when I rapped to the packs at the base, there was the wrench! Returning the next weekend, I had no partner so solo belayed up the first pitch. I replaced the anchor on that one, and one quarter-inch pro bolt that someone else had missed. So that pitch was done, but there were still the last four old bolts on the second pitch. Thinking about soloing that was starting to make me sweat. That pitch is a little gnarly, at 5.9, especially at the top with a bit of runout. I was getting a little concerned when along came a group of three friendly folks who sounded interested in helping out. I offered to give Jeremy the second pitch, who gladly gave me a belay to the top, and I got to work. I fixed the rope and replaced the last four pro bolts while Jeremy, Christine and Jake had fun over on Dirt Circus. Thanks to Mark McKillop, Peter Wojcik, and Steve Risse (RIP) for putting up this nice route. I know the first pitch doesn't follow your original line, but I see the old single bolt out there to the right, and it looks like good climbing over there, too! Everyone refers to the modern line as Magic Bus, and it's an integral part of this beautiful crag that continues to provide us with great days.

Sounds good, where is this crag? Please don't say, "Renton".

I just pre-ordered my copy. Thanks!

DavidW might have a paragraph on the approach, try a PM.

Thank you for posting. Methinks "Last rays of light" is a very good photo.

Awesome TR, thanks. "...chess player at a checkers tournament" nice!

OK, thanks for the correction on the lakes name. I'll check out the map when I get home.

Thanks for reporting this, Lucky. What climbing area is this in? Also, I'd like to know what "ID ten tee: error" means, just curious.

Thank you for the interesting trip report. I think it is a good use of experimental prose and creative wordplay. Beatiful pictures. Thanks again!

Yep, I just got a PM from Evan confirming the gear and a little about the story of their climb. Congratulations, Evan and Micah! That is true adventure climbing, for sure! I'm looking forward to your TR. If there were even more loose blocks before your arrival, that must have been some delicate climbing! Also, I agree with the 5.8R rating; my .9 move was overcooked. Good on ya both!

Trip: Jet Tower - East Buttress Date: 9/9/2013 Trip Report: I first saw this jagged tooth of a mountain in May of last year, before the snowmelt, with DavidW. Exploring the South Face of Squire Creek Wall, I took my first photos of the surrounding upper basin. I learned from David this was Jet Tower, informally named for a military jet that had crashed into it many years ago. Later in the summer, after shooting it from nearly every stop along the way up our new climb, we planned to climb it next. Not knowing how to get up there, early in this year David and I spent a couple of weekends finding a way into the big timber which would gain access to the upper basin. Later, last Winter, I was getting to know Chris Greyell at our weekly gym training sessions. He, too, was motivated to climb the Tower and was convinced he knew the best way up to it. At the inspiring slide show at his home, he showed us a cool photo and told of his wonder at standing at the base, laying hands on it and looking up. He also said nobody had ever climbed this East face of it. He nearly had me persuaded to climb his Approach Route on the Roan Wall and keep going up into the cirque, traversing North to the Tower. I was afraid he would beat us to it using his approach. But later, as Winter turned to Spring, he allowed that he would be too busy putting up new routes in Waterfall Basin, and said with grace that he would be honored to do the Second Ascent after we succeeded. David and I held firm to our determination to approach from the North. But the way was steep and long, so we decided to change priorities back to Squire Creek Wall and its obvious slab potential. The Tower would have to wait. So when the opportunity arose on Sept. 7, 8 and 9 with our helpful buddy Wes Bevins and a clear weather forecast, I was determined to get up there and at least carry out a reconnaisance trip. The weekend started badly. The sadness at the loss of Chris depressed me, and other partners were not feeling like getting out. Wes was my only companion, and he was coming down from Concrete after camping with his family. He said he would call me at home and we'd meet at the trailhead. All morning I waited, growing more nervous and sunk with each passing hour, until two in the afternoon. The call came and I jumped in the truck. Biking at 4:20, hiking up and camping at 7:00. Not the best way to spend a good weather Saturday. On Sunday morning, after a leisurely start gearing up with bivy and climbing gear including hammer and pins, we started up at 8:00. We carried one of Wes' 8.5mm double ropes each. We skirted under Skeena26 and crossedonly one small snow patch before reaching the canyon crossing. There is a deep gully, or small canyon, separating the West Buttress from the rest of Squire Creek Wall. David and I researched a good way to cross it involving a short rappel into it, and easily walking out. Wes and I slid down a rope 30' and across the gully, into the deep forest on the far side. It turned out that DavidW and I had already gone through the most difficult part of the approach. The steep virgin forest band gave way to boulder slides and easy tree bands, which all gave way to heather alps and finally clean granite benches. It took Wes and I four hours from a camp near the base of Skeena26 to Jet Tower. So, it was seven hours in all from the truck. Wes coming across the heather slopes of the upper basin Being only noon, we had time to procure comfortable bivy sites and have lunch. At 2:00 we set out and I climbed up a good-looking, curving, grassy crack in white granite. This is about 50' left of the extreme toe of the buttress. It was easiest to step right and continue up to a belay close to the buttress edge. Two wired stoppers and a small cam for a belay, I asked Wes if he wanted the next pitch. He seemed happy to say, "No, this is your show", and we switched rope ends. I led straight up to a steeper bulge, the initial low-angle apron was over. I had to step left through 5.9 face moves to get past the bulge on an excellent, solid face riddle with pinch holds. the path of least resistance trended back right, and I pulled onto a small ledge next to a huge flake with a 5" gap behind it, perfect for the extra 4 and 5 Camalots we'd carried up. Slinging the flake with some fine 1" tubular webbing we'd thought to bring along, I built a good belay backed up by the cams. Wes came up leaving the first pitch anchor intact. We fixed each rope to one of the anchors and slid down to dinner. Our starting spot on the white apron, shown after fixing the lines Higher up, blue rope on the first pitch, red on the second Higher still, showing the second pitch Squire Creek Wall, South Face Next morning, Monday, I took a walk around the jet parts field and took photos of the Air Force memorabilia. It was so interesting and widespread that we didn't get out of our bivy camp until 10:30. Wes getting ready to jug up I jugged the lines before Wes started up, to lessen the chance of any loose rock getting knocked off onto him. Arriving without incident, Wes had to protest a little when I stepped back out left to gaze at the wall. "I can't climb that!", he said, and I couldn't, either. It looked hard, as the numerous small dihedrals held only closed seams. We'd arrived at 50' of blank face before it would get to the obvious big cracks leading to the summit point. I had to back off. Around to the right, out onto the North face of this East Buttress, was a broken ramp that went up to the horizon. It was festooned with broken, wedged-in blocks, lichen-covered and menacing. Up this ramp I went, carefully thumping every hold and listening. Delicate stems, nothing difficult but just careful, quiet climbing brought me to an outrageous dirt hump next to cracks for a belay. This third pitch was wild, crusty Cascade climbing at its best. Looking for a route out on the left side of the buttress edge; we backed off from this Whitehorse from the route The belay was two 2" cams in a crack which separated a refrigerator-sized block from the wall. It looked wedged in place at its top and bottom. I backed it up with a good 1" cam on the main wall. We didn't stop to take any pictures. After switching ends, I step up onto our belay block and Wes says he sees it moving. I hop to change feet, and he says it again. I want to get off that block quickly but there are a couple of delicate, steeper moves ahead, and I have to figure them out. Holding our breaths, I ooze upward, off the block, laying back to a dihedral and easier ramp above. Accelerating up some big, solid blocks I soon realize these are the Summit blocks, and there is the Sun just ahead. Wes later said he felt a huge surge of relief and thankfulness when I called out, "I'm on top!" The tableau where I pulled onto the summit Wes enjoying being up there Craig Lakes Three Fingers Summit blocks Glacier Peak Summit portraits The fourth pitch was only 40' long, putting to rest the early surmise that this thing might be five pitches tall. Then just recently, DavidW had cannily revised his estimate to four pitches. So, with an approach of seven hours and bivy sites now ready, one could easily do this route in two days. Hike in and camp at the base the first day, do the climb and hike out the second. I found a modern, sewn webbing loop with two carabiners attached at the exact base of our route. We can only wonder if someone has beat us to it this year. The webbing is in brand-new looking condition. Has anyone you know been up this face, and possibly dropped this? We would love to hear about the exploit, successful or not, in public or not. Send me a PM if you like, and describe to claim your gear! After a lot of photo shooting at the wilderness, we prepared to depart through the trees on the West side. Glacier Peak looked magnificent, Blueberry Hill looked small and far below, Three Fingers and Whitehorse enclosed us. And the huge massif of slender slab ribbons on Squire Creek Wall looked most alluring of all, to me. Even with all the competing stunning terrain, that's still where I want to be. Dropping straight down through the trees folowing the path of least resistance brought us to a boot track that we used as we turned South to Pop Tart Tower. I first heard of this formation from Chris, and didn't ask him about the funny name. Turning a corner around some boulders I suddenly saw the reason for the name. On the far side of Pop Tart Tower is a gully which we downclimbed without need of the rope. It was a relief to be on solid ground. We rested, broke camp and descended to the bikes in five hours and rode out in the dusk. Thank you, Wes, for being ever helpful and enthusiastic. I hear you've had a mishap; heal up fast and stay loose, my friend. Gear Notes: Single rack to 5" Approach Notes: Bushwhacked from the South side of Squire Creek Wall

This weekend I brought an old friend up to climb Skeena26. Jim Daubert and I hiked up on Saturday, and rested by setting up the tent. Our friend Wes arrived and lent us his rack and ropes. Shortly after we blasted up the 12 pitches on that beautiful day, which we greatly enjoyed. Had dinner, got some much needed sleep. Next day while cooking breakfast the stillness was broken by the sound of a helicopter. Wes commented, "That's not a good sign." Then we three jugged up to the high point of the new route, and I finished Pitch 9. Then I started up Pitch 10 and kept going. A beautiful knobby shield, then a cool overlap 2" crack, a couple of vertical crack spots for pro, a ledge for the anchor, and Pitch 10 was in the bag. We returned to civilization to find out that our friend, inspiration, one of the Darrington greats, had died in his beloved valley. Chris Greyell is gone, and our loss is great.

tvash, what's up with the non-sequitur? Even so, I agree with you, Dark Rhythm is an inspiring route. I was intimidated just following chucK up The Flange...

Trip: Squire Creek Wall - Skeena26 Date: 8/3/2013 Trip Report: As my regular partner and FA artist was away on business, I had a chance to climb last year's route with some new friends. This is an amusing benefit of spending all my climbing time hammering away at one objective all year - bringing up some folks to see how they appreciate it. Kellie and Ken were motivated to have a good time on some new ground, and I'm pleased to say we accomplished that. With the forecast chance of precipitation at 70% on our approach day, we drove up in Kellie's small sedan packed with three bikes in the rain. We hiked up in declining mist in three hours. I had just met Ken, and he turned out to be a full suspension Mt. biker who rode right down the new rock steps in the landslide. Astonishing to me, when asked about it later he hadn't even noticed it. The hike up went well as we made camp after only three hours of travel. We relaxed after setting up the tent, as this photo shows, with the three liter bag of fine wine gone nearly flat. Up at 6:30, and not raining at breakfast time, I was glad to see the forecast holding true. A small pool of water sat in my dinner plate, but I knew the fog would lift and we would get sun this day. We moved out at 9:00 after racking up. Ken's knee was mending from some normal, for him, trashing so Kellie led all 12 pitches. She said she really liked the last pitch, with its patina, the crusty cracks and the gear placements. While Ken did all the belaying I took 200 photos, trying to get off to the side and above. A rare treat, to shoot someone other than a gnarly grizzled man who doesn't want to be seen anyway. The first pitch has a technical, smooth couple of moves at the start. A study of the infamous Primal Scream in the rising cloud. Pitch 2 crosses this short overlap. Working the knob. Pitch 4 moves along the wide overlap and then crosses it. Pitch 5 with admirable downpressure technique. Ken and Bill following. Pitch 7 is a good one with small knobs at 5.8. Hand work. The Sun has finally broken through. Pitch 11 During the upper pitches, the large white snag signals the topout. Pitch 12 There is good pro to the left of the overhang. At the top, Kellie and Ken were all smiles. Happy the Sun has warmed it all and we're on top. Thanks to tanstaafl and ken4ord for allowing me to relax and have a fine couple of days with good appreciative partners. May the good times continue to roll! Gear Notes: Standard single rack to 4".

On the Canadian approach, do not follow a line of flags uphill to a mining claim, way too soon. We realized this mistake in time to catch up with a family of picnickers frolicking in the creek... Fail.

I heard about this trip from Chris at the trailhead the next weekend. He was still stoked about it! One big traverse, way to go!

Now that is wild. Thanks for sharing it.

That first photo is a beautiful study in Blue. Thanks for posting it.

Don't overlook Duty Dome. It has a high concentration of good cracks and some slab routes in that range. Off Duty, 10k Motivational Tapes, and all those cracks to the left of Off Duty.

Yes, glad to hear he's still doing that. Several years ago I met him at that market. My wife bought one of his nice wooden earring display racks.