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payaso

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Everything posted by payaso

  1. Thanks, I'll look into Bogachiel!
  2. I was thinking about doing a leisurely 3 day 2 night trip to climb Mt Carrie this weekend and am looking for a little beta. Anyone been around there yet this year? Any preferences to entering via the Elwha river TH, or the Sol Duc Hotsprings TH? I heard there is a traverse with a bit of exposure between Cat Peak and Mt Carrie which could be interesting under heavy snow cover. All the info I've seen is from people doing this in September or something. My friend will be new to the use of the ice axe so we might be biting off more than we should chew. Gracias.
  3. They are giving valuable radio time right now to a Kansas City climber. WTF! I think Amber is going to speak next.
  4. I find it amazing that this subject always rears it's head when something tragic happens. Mike made great points about not being legally required to perform a rescue. If that were the case, then all it would take is one shithead and their lawyer to gouge the park service for millions. The actual cost of a rescue is a bargain considerring that almost everyone is a volunteer. By contrast no one seemed to be very upset when about a month ago, on an abandoned Indonesian freighter near Hawaii, they rescued a dog that had been left on the freighter at sea. Apparently the rescue cost about $50,000! WTF! All for a friggin mut. How much money is it going to cost both USA, and Canada to do something with this orphaned baby killer whale in Puget Sound? Probably half a million! I think the general public needs to place the costs in perspective.
  5. The circumstances of the Hood incident seem to reenforce thoughts about climbing less popular routes. Last year I climbed the DC route on Rainier with the masses and felt nervous about it. 100 or so people swithbacking up the mountain above the DC following the same set of tracks led to a bit of a backup. At one point an RMI guide who was tied to about 7 clients insisted upon passing us and other groups who were following the beaten track method. This irresponsible act of passing left many people quite vulnerable to a similar accident in my opinion. The guide passed us with 7 in tow. You cannot pass fast enough under those circumstances so for way too long, we were crossing ropes and getting way to cozy with members of their group. Had someone fallen it could very easily have become a big tumbling ball of string, flesh, and ice axes.We ended up having to pass them 10 minutes later anyway. I learned that I would rather kick my own steps or wait 10 minutes for them to go away. It is easy to see how this accident (Hood) could have happened.
  6. Pretty sure it's the 15th of June when permits go into effect.
  7. This is the worst Moountaineering news day I've ever seen! Anyone want to play golf this weekend?
  8. With this and the accident at Hood today be ready for massive public debate to be brought up regarding the ever recurring 'Who should pay for the rescue' issue. This coverage just precipitates the public perception that climbing is 'crazy' and that climbers should have to pay their own bill for the rescue.
  9. ArcTeryx uses the same business model that Oakley, TNF, and others use.... That is that if you don't charge enough money for your product, nobody will want it. A bunch of over-priced mediocre crap if you ask me. I've never used their harnesses however. I think they sell some kind of gore-tex climbers jacket for about $450 US! What a joke!
  10. I will trade you some 10 year old Thorlo hiking socks that are still wet from last weekend for the naming rights.
  11. Was just up there this weekend and the trail is pretty close to snow free up to the trail junction. From there heading up to the lake there are lots of major people eater traps. Above Asgaard pass snow is way rotten with a lot of punch throughs. Snow shoes would have made our lives a lot easier. No need for crampons.
  12. I must have gone right past y'all. There was a flurry of activity up at asgaard pass yesterday around noonish. We were coming down around then. Saw FB sitting on rock. Innocently said hello. No response. Laughed silently to self. Lots of demoralizing thigh deep punch throughs up there right now. Would have been nice to have snowshoes up there right now as they'll do you more good than crampons.
  13. all your summit photos are in the clouds and look the same.
  14. Cool, I'll have to get up there again. I was up there a few weeks ago with the same icy conditions, but many clouds. Another summit in the clouds. Oh well.
  15. quote: Originally posted by Mike Gauthier: "Our National Park System is a tremendous bargain for families that visit them and that should remain as it is," Thomas said. "I'm encouraged by the early results of the fee program for giving the parks an extra boost that can be duplicated across the country in units that can support it." [/url] What the heck is that supposed to mean? They'd better not cut back on the hand sanitizer up at Muir!
  16. Buy your Forest Service Pass at REI and then return it next year.
  17. A baby changing station would be a welcome addition at Muir. Heck, it could even come in handy at the top of the DC for the unlucky parent that might need to change their little one before they push for the summit.
  18. The climbing fee goes to fill the hand sanitizer in the Muir shitters. Last year I tried to use $15 worth of the stuff before I left.
  19. I basically lived in one of those for a decent part of 93. The beauty is in the simplicity. It's easier to set up than some bivy sacks. Great for setting up in the dark, cold, wet, etc. So many tents require intelligence to set up which is a bad thing. No extra room for gear with two people though.
  20. Anyone else in their cube looking out the window? I'll be out the door by 2:00pm. I'm a newbie looking to lead on the easy wall by the track (or elsewhere), or will try just about anything toproped. Have car and equipment. PM before 2:00 pm today.
  21. This may sound silly, but is there a reason why you shouldn't split a rope? I want to have a 30m x 9mm or so alpine rope. I see a lot more 60m ones and was wondering if there is a real reason why this would not be a good idea.
  22. Just take Immodium 12 hours before a climb. No need for TP, and no need for the mess!
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